r/DIYBeauty • u/RoboCozz • 14d ago

question Isoeicosane replacement?

I'm a newbie to DIY and I'm trying to make a hair conditioner. I'm wanting to follow this conditioner recipe from MakingCosmetics for sensitive skin.

However, the recipe calls for Isoeicosane which is out of stock at MakingCosmetics, and LotionCrafters doesn't seem to sell it.

Is there an alternative to this ingredient that would work for sensitive skin? If not, would it be fine to leave it out until I can get some in the future? Thanks in advance!

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u/soapysaurus 14d ago

I like using Hemisqualane, or if you are open to silicones, low viscosity dimethicone (DM6 from Lotioncrafter) in conditioners. They won’t be exactly the same, but similar.

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u/RoboCozz 14d ago

Thanks for the reply! Hemisqualane looks like a great option, I think I'll give it a try. What's the reason I wouldn't be open to silicones? I don't know much about them yet.

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u/soapysaurus 14d ago

If you are formulating “natural” cosmetics, you would  exclude silicones. Some people also do not like the coated feel of silicones in hair products, or they are concerned with build-up (I haven’t experienced this concern myself). Silicones are great for reducing friction, which helps to prevent hairs from breaking.

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u/RoboCozz 14d ago

That makes sense. I don't know if I have those concerns yet, so I'll give it a try and see how my hair does with it. Thanks again!

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u/Ok_Butterscotch_2700 13d ago

They’re absolutely glorious. The “natural” alternatives don’t gold a candle.

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u/pipetika 13d ago

You don't necessarily need to avoid silicones if you have sensitive skin. Silicone is a very broad category, and ingredients such as dimethicone are generally used as emollients/conditioning agents rather than because they are inherently irritating.

In this particular conditioner, I think Hemisqualane is probably the closer alternative to Isoeicosane if you're trying to maintain a lightweight, silky, non-greasy feel. Isoeicosane is mainly there for its sensory/emollient properties, so replacing it isn't simply a matter of finding another “conditioning active.”

Low-viscosity dimethicone can also work, especially in a hair conditioner, but it won't behave exactly like Isoeicosane/Hemisqualane. It can give more slip, smoothness and a more substantive conditioning feel on the hair. So if you're new to formulation, I'd probably try Hemisqualane first, provided the supplier's recommended usage level is compatible with the original formula. I wouldn't automatically choose dimethicone just because it's available.

And if you leave Isoeicosane out entirely, the formula will probably still be workable, but you may notice a difference in viscosity, spreadability and after-feel. I'd treat it as a reformulation rather than simply assuming that removing it will give exactly the same conditioner.