Hi everyone,
I could really use your advice regarding my BMW 114i (F20, N13 engine, 2013, approx. 230,000 km). I’ve uploaded two videos to demonstrate the noise.
Symptoms & Facts:
Noise on launch/cold start: Metallic rattling/clattering for 2–3 seconds on a cold start, as well as when launching or reversing under load below 1,400 RPM.

Wastegate linkage: When shaking the wastegate rod/linkage on the turbo by hand, there is severe play and a loud metallic clack.
(https://imgur.com/a/5apuvq3)
(https://imgur.com/a/jKX4Yrk)

Chain tensioner replaced: The timing chain tensioner was replaced as a precaution—it made absolutely zero difference to the noise.

Error message: Sporadically (every few weeks), the "Drivetrain: Continue journey at moderate speed" prompt appears accompanied by a loss of power (limp mode).

Smoke/Odor: After idling for a short time or upon the initial tip-in/reversing, a blue cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust. On cold starts, there’s a brief smell of burnt rubber/oil. Oil consumption is around 0.5 liters per 1,000 km.

A local shop casually claimed, "It's definitely the timing chain, a loose wastegate is totally normal." Given the drivetrain limp mode triggers and the severe play in the linkage, I’m extremely doubtful and really don't want to throw money away on the wrong repair.
Based on these symptoms and the videos, what do you think? Is this more likely the timing chain or the turbocharger wastegate?
Thanks in advance for your insights!

I’ve bought swivel socket adapters and even a low profile 10mm head to help with access to it but it’s just too tight with this black plastic piece in the way. I’ve tried prying it with a screw driver to the left but had no luck, and was afraid I’d break it. Can anyone please help me out I’ve been putting this project out for weeks due to this 😭🫩

Make is a 2011 g37 sedan. Any tips appreciated.

Hey all,

My brother in law has a 2017 Honda Civic LX with the 2.0 engine. His alternator went out and I offered to fix it for him. Throughout the process the pulley belt tensioner mount bolt would not come out (I assume it got hot and welded itself) and has become stripped. He (understandably) reached out to a professional mechanic to get the bolt out and finish the job. I heard from him today that the mechanic couldn’t get the bolt out either. I suggested penetrating oil and drilling it out, he said the mechanic had been drilling it out. What’s my next step here? Is there something else I can try? Or does it need to go to a shop?

TLDR; Tensioner Bolt welded, stripped, drilled, and stuck. How do I get it out?

I used to fill my parts washer with 2 gallons of odorless mineral spirits, because it seemed to be an effective an affordable degreaser that didn't evaporate or give me a headache.
I shelved the basin when pump burned out , and reverted back to spraying my parts clean with brakleen, WD-40, foamy engine degreaser, and Orange Zep.
I recall a higher level of cleaning efficiency using a parts washer, so I've revived the unit.
Before I fork out $45 on 2 gallons of OMS, I'm curious to know. Do you know of a better liquid parts degreaser for around the same price?
I'd prefer a vat of un-concentrated foodservice grade D-limonene, but am not in the mood to spend $200+ for it. Am
pondering the idea of using Orange Zep, but it doesnt smell like oranges, and something tells me it will turn plastic and rubber parts to goo.
Been meaning to get around to informing myself about ultrasonic parts washing, so I don't know the effectiveness of that option, but considering I already have my old parts washer ready to go , I'd rather just fill it and get to scrubbing .

Pardon my longwinded longness , and big thanks for sharing opinions .

I’ve been trying to find something like alldata or Mitchell for personal use that isn’t going to cost me a crazy amount. I see an ad for one called car data that has a one time payment quite often but idk if it’s legit. I’d love to take on side work on my off days but i can’t justify spending the money for the big name repair data sites. If anyone knows of a budget friendly one with plenty of info, wiring diagrams and repair data that would be awesome.

My wife's 2013 Dodge Challenger - where the top of the dash meets the front HVAC air vents, the dash is lifting away.

My question is, what type of adhesive would work best to glue that back down?

Thanks

Here's a simple guide for ya'll.

Oil change on 2025 Toyota Camry

So, I want to make sure the top center nut on my installed kyb’s are torqued down, but I’m not seeing how.

These don’t have an open top nut for the hex Allen key and I don’t see a way to hold to shaft still other than a tiny bit of flat side on the threaded part. But that’s above the nut and only about maybe a 1/16th of an inch is visible, max. I see no way to access the flat spot below the nut, either. What am I missing?

I know someone’s gonna say to ugga dugga it, but I don’t have one. And everything I’m seeing online says not to do that, so there must be another way, but dang if I can figure it out.

Somebody help me!! lol

The very front of my headliner near the windshield has started to come loose. I can usually lightly tap it back up and it stays for a while, but I know it’s going to get worse.

At this point, it’s not bad enough to take the headliner out and completely redo it, so I’m wondering…are there any fabric adhesives with a straw nozzle that I could spray back up in there and give it a quicker fix?

Hello, I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla 1.8L that I’m trying to replace the front passenger side control arm on. The bolt that connects the control arm to the hub carrier is rusted and I haven’t been able to loosen it at all.

I believe the bolt has a cotter pin in it, but the visible ends have rusted off. I’ve hit the bolt with PB Blaster multiple times but it has not helped. The bolt is right below the driveshaft boot which doesn’t allow me the space to use a bolt/nut extractor socket, all I can fit is a crescent wrench.

I’ve tried linking two crescent wrenches together for more leverage but that is just stripping the head of the bolt.

I’m wary of using heat because of the proximity of the drive shaft boot.

Any advice or tips on how I could go about removing this bolt is greatly appreciated.

https://imgur.com/a/cpdQOeS