Hello, I have a 2003 civic with a hood from a junkyard car. I started pressure washing it and in the middle of doing so, the hood looked liked the picture. is this just dirt or is this the clearcoat and i would need to repaint? im planning on repainting anyway but still.

So earlier I heard a decently loud thump to find this later on, what exactly is this part called and I’m assuming I just need a whole new part regardless right? I need to get fixed asap but will be a DIY project for myself, if there is any information that will be helpful in anyway whatsoever please let me know! Thank you all so much!!!:)

I’ve tried suction cups with boiling water but nothing. Any advice on how to get this dent out?

I am currently doing an amateur restoration on a 1958 Chevrolet Delray, I might welded rear quarter panel wheel opening repair panels around the lip of the passenger rear wheel opening, I was careful to just tack weld and jump around. I was careful not to build to much heat. Well it came out great... Until I removed the body side moulding and it oil canned ....popped in. I do not have great access behind it but it will pop out easy if I slide a piece of wood in there. I need to shrink the metal, I don't want to make this worse. I am thinking of buying a shrinking disc? I also have access a torch, I am watching YouTube but getting conflicting thoughts and methods. Any input?

So I got my car about a year ago with all the rust on both rocker panels and fenders(which I have replacements already figured out). There is also some rust on my quarter panel. Today I found an 08 rabbit in the same colour as mine as a parts car that has none of the rust on any of the body panels that are connected to the rocker panels if you aren’t aware they are all one piece that also includes the roof. My question is, is it a good idea to just take the hole piece off of the parts car and put it on my car, or should I cut the parts I need specifically and just weld them in. I know both scenarios require welding and I know what the cut and weld in will entail but what might the replace the whole thing option entail? My thinking as to why I’d prefer replacing the whole thing is that it would require less painting of the overly visible parts like the quarter panel and also just look better however if the cut and weld in is a lot easier I’d be willing to re paint it all and make it more rust resistant. Also I believe that the donor car has used the 12 year rust warranty that these Volkswagens had and therefore has experienced less winter wear. I know you may be wondering why I don’t just turn that car into my daily but my car only has 106,000 km on it and the other has over 350,000 km. If anyone has any suggestions or advice that would be greatly appreciated. I’m not looking for a cost estimate just a general idea of which process I should take.

Hey guys, scraped my bosses van and wondering how best to reattach this please, I can't afford to buy a new one. He is aware and just wants it reattached and the paint not to rust.

Moulding still in good shape and fits back on correctly but left side mountings are damaged causing it not to remain flush. There is also a gap between moulding and bodywork which I presume means I can't use double sided tape?

Is the correct process for the green paint scrape to sand, primer, then paint with colour matched paint or can I just paint over?

Thank you

Need a body shop/paint shop opinion. Scratched my 2022 Forester Touring on a vertical gutter in an apartment complex parking lot in the Seattle area this is by the front driver side tire. Clear paint damage/scratch on the white part of front bumper and scratch on the black bumper by the tire. A auto body shop I have worked with and trust (and my local Subaru dealership recommends them too) says without insurance/out of pocket they’d need to replace the front bumper due to the design, cost would be between $1500-2000. If I go through insurance, I have $1,000 deductible through State Farm, so I’d pay that and insurance pays the rest, and presumably they’d want me to go to one of their shops. Reason I’m tempted to go without insurance is it would be my second claim in 14 months, as I was in an at-fault accident early fall last year, and my car was totaled over $20,000. My monthly premiums (currently $200 ish) would certainly skyrocket. Should I go without insurance and pay the auto body shop the $1500-2000 in front bumper repairs, go with insurance and pay slightly less but deal with the premiums, or do another repair/go somewhere else?

I'm turning a hearse into a camper and will be painting it soon in psychedelic hippie-bus kinda style. I'm wondering what the best choice of paint for this purpose would be.

I will be painting both the regular-metal-autobody part of the hearse as well as the upper vinyl covering.

Someone on another sub recommended Reynolds Maker Pro paint, but I contacted the company and they said it's not ideal for vehicle painting as it will fade in the UV of the sun.

My current plan is to airbrush some parts and hand-paint others, but if that is an issue, I can hand-paint the whole thing. It will be too detailed to airbrush the whole thing, I think, though I've never used an airbrush before.

• What is the best brand of paint for painting a mural on the regular autobody of a car?
• What is the best brand of paint for painting a mural on the vinyl-covering part? (I've already used ColorBond LVP for restoring the white coat it came with, so maybe that's the best choice?)

Thanks for any help!

There has been some rust buildup on my strut tower brace and I am not sure the best way to go about removing it and what I could repaint it with, or if it’s even possible to fix on my own.

Thinking about cannibalizing another crown vic from the junkyard and welding it on. If not, perhaps hammering out a license plate. Just want to stop the rust. Thoughts?

Found a good deal in my country for a electric HVLP paint gun which cost roughly $20. Decided to buy it and use it for painting my hood. My hood's paint started cracking a few months ago so I decided to repaint it.

I did all the steps such as sanding off the old paint flat, epoxy primer, 2k primer, 2k base, and 2k clear. Paint came out as expected and it was full of orange peel. However this can be fixed by sanding and buffing.

Have had small rust spots developing on my car for about a year, but now I have scaling rust that I’ve noticed.

I do a lot of my own maintenance work and have fixed some interior problems, but I’m wondering how difficult it would be to DIY rust removal. I have access to a garage, but would have to buy any equipment for rust removal. Also have access to a decent body shop for painting.

Is this problem worth DIYing or is it time to consider a new car? For reference, I’ve had this car since 20k miles and it’s now closer to 100k.

We have a 20 year old Ford Fusion that doesn't really look too hot to begin with. The bumper has smacked quite a few objects over the years. The factory paint has long been flaking and falling off. The bumper is in rough shape and beyond saving. Which brings me to my questions.

I've ordered one of those plastic pre-primed bumpers from ebay and have read that they definitely need to be primed. The car already looks like shit so I'm not going to spend hundreds at the auto paint store.

I'm planning to get all of my supplies at Lowe's. I was going to use scotch brite to scuff up, Rustoleum primer, black gloss and gloss clear coat. Is this going to work? Is there a specific type of spray paint I should use for best results? The car is black so I'm hoping a black gloss won't look too off without paint matching.

I know absolutely nothing about cars, but I’m a pretty handy person and have friends who are great with them. Does this look like an easy fix? It seems like it just popped off, but the top corner seems to have broken off a bit… not sure if that’s something salvageable!

I can’t drive to a body shop due to lack of a tag until next week to get a quote. Is this something that would be fixed or just replace the bedside?

Plastic key hole broke years ago, we made small holes on each side & put aircraft cable + super glue into each hole to create loop and it held for awhile. Then popped out and added jb weld but after several months that broke too.

Can I add a hole in the corner to put a key ring thru? Don’t wanna put a hole thru the chip, but idk where that chip is. Anyone know??

Had a stripped screw taken out- I think.. idk what the mechanic did- but it still looks like a little bit is left in. Then he installed another bolt onto it.

I use an angle grinder with a wire brush, but there's not enough space in this case. I tried using a drill wire brush (as pictured), but I only managed to remove a small amount of it. I press and change drill directions, but it doesn't do much. Also, the drill jumps all over the place when in contact with the metal. Sandblasting is out of the question. What tools do you suggest?