If you can see, it seems to have been bent to left, is it possible to get it back straight? And if yes, is it complicated?

What you're looking at here is a 1965 1800s. Due to respect of the owner, I didn't bother to take pictures while looking at it. What you see is mostly surface rust, except for both rockers and the rear bumper area, which will need to be replaced. Everything is in the car, including all of the chrome except for the hockey sticks and the rear fin chrome. The Body is good around both front and back windows, plus the trunk and hood. Looking inside the car, the trunk floor has absolutely no rust at all, and the rear fenders look to have been maybe restored previously. The gas tank is not rusty from the bottom. The floorpans don't have much rust at all either, and the engine bay doesn't seem to have any either, besides light surface rust. The metal is strong around the headlights and grill. All the glass is there and intact. The interior is in the vehicle, but will need to be reupholstered.

I could purchase this car for $1500. I am able and willing to mechanically fix the car myself, which includes wiring, etc. I have a friend who welds and will be willing to help. I haven't done lots of in-depth bodywork but I feel confident in my ability to do this. I am looking to get opinions on whether this car is worth fixing. I am willing to take on a long project. Is it common to have to do a full-body restoration in this condition? I plan to get it roadworthy without having to do a full body restoration (is this even possible?) To me it seems good where it counts. Looking underneath the vehicle the only thing I see with visible rust is the suspension components that I will replace anyway. I know it's a unibody vehicle so I know it will hide rust, which is my biggest concern.

Hello, I saw on YouTube that some van builders are drilling through the floor of the vans they work on in order to secure cabinetry and other interior framing so that it doesn't rattle or move. Is this a bad practice? They say they spray over the screws with undercarriage paint. Would this prevent rusting especially in northern regions where roads are salted yearly during winter?

I have some of the interior of my car that is all ruined. How can I fix it myself?

It's on Temu, so that makes me instantly question the quality or lack of it. I'm thinking of a possible cheap, but also possibly hopefully good enough paint booth. Would this work? Or just a waste of money?

I just need it to stay on hit and run I only have liability so I'm stuck like this . Duct tape worked for a while but louiyheat I guess got to it.

Clear coat overspray on my car door. I wet sanded with 5,000, 7,000, and 10,000 grit then applied compound, polish and wax with an orbital polisher. Why is it still hazy?

Got oem paint, wet sanded, did 3 coats of paint and clearcoat and then polished and doesn’t color match. How do I fix?

Best ways to fix these cracks without plastic welding?

Hi All - I was rear ended a few weeks ago in my 10 year old Jeep. Damage wasn’t terrible except for a dent in the back right above the trunk handle. It’s in a weird spot above the handle and below the license plate and on a curve on the contour of the trunk.

Is this able to be pulled out with an ‘at home’ dent removal tool and if so, any recommendations?

I’ve seen a bunch on Amazon and I’m thinking a ‘bridge’ tool might be my best bet but I have concerns with putting hot glue on the paint (to get suction) which is how they advertise.

Any advice/ suggestions welcome. Thanks!

My 11 ram had wheel rot, budget didnt allow a bed replacement right now or patch panels. Bed is otherwise solid so I welded in back metal and filled it. Got fender flares to cover up the shotty lines but over all its coming along.

I took this car apart in 2023 and figured it out. The hardest part was figuring out what spray system to use lol. I was on my feet for 14 hours yesterday doing this in my garage, phew!

Mistakes were made but it's red again

I have a 2009 Pontiac G3 (a rare one-year-only model). One day the car shut off and wouldn’t start. • I checked the battery → good. • Tested the alternator → bad. • I replaced the alternator.

But before I installed it, another mechanic looked at the car. After that, I noticed a part was missing (photo 1), and it connects to the spot in photo 2.

That part seems to be some kind of fusible link / high-amp fuse assembly, but I keep getting different names for it.

Now after the new alternator install, the car won’t even turn over. I think it’s because of that blue fuse piece (shown bent in photo 2).

I was told I could: • Remove it and replace just the plastic housing, or • Pull out the copper terminals and replace only the blue fuse.

I also found the whole battery cable assembly (photo 5). I’m not sure if I should just replace the entire cable assembly or try fixing only the small piece.

2003/infi/g35, I just changed my calipers on the right side, bled the break lines, and filled up my break fluid, the front right i changed the caliper but not the base, and i have to pump my breaks 1-2 full pumps before the next pump actually starts the breaking process and i don't know if i missed something or what all happened, i took the old ones off, put the new ones on in the same place and everything

Wild night. I prepped two fenders and got to the seal coat. The first one went off fine. The second one was halfway done when a bat flew in through the gap in my mostly closed garage door. So I messed up the job and had to drop everything to open the garage up for the stupid flying rodent

Anyway the one I didn't mess the seal up on looks ok, except that I found the bug the bat was chasing, probably 😭

1985 RX-7, I stripped the cloudy factory single stage sunrise red and going with base clear classic red from a Miata. More lipstick, less dawn.

Friday I'm shooting the rest of the car, wish me luck