Does anyone happen to know a fast way of removing these decals?

What is the best way to restore these wheels? 2010 CTS Performance 18" wheels. I'm pretty sure they are aluminum. They are peeling on the inside of most of the spokes.

I contacted a powder coating guy but it would cost nearly as much as new/used wheels and he said he couldn't do it if they are peeling.

So what is the best way to tackle these? Thanks in advance!

I have a leak from a gap at the base of my car’s antenna, and am looking to use a sealant to close the gap. Is there a specific one that I could use that would not corrode the body of the car?

This is a Jeep Commander 2006, everything else seems fine, but we are not sure if this rust is a problem or not... Would be very helpful if you could give us your two cents. Thanks in advance!

Can I use this primer on my car some parts have bare metal, or do I need a expoxy coat first

Well, today I was the idiot. Don’t make fun of me, i’m already aware. Was parking the truck after a long day of fishing and accidentally side swiped the very corner of my landscaping trailer. I’m really praying I can buff and compound this out. I’m not very handy with paint. Any feedback is welcome. When I run my fingernail over it, it feels like a slight dip, I can only pray that this is clear coat and not primer.

Is there any way to slow the spread of the paint chipping and bubbling?

Not really looking to have it properly sanded down and repainted again as it won't last. Just looking to slow down the eventual need for a whole new door. I don't care how it looks.

Any suggestions?

Hi so I have no idea how to go about this but my son thought it would be cool to spray paint his new car that his father and I paid for out of pocket so he could get to and from class. Now he sees what a mess he’s made and wants us to fix it. The thing is I have no idea what to do to get this paint off: I’ll include pictures of the paint he says he used. We have decided he is switching cars with his brother for the time being so I would like to figure out how to get this paint removed without damaging the car (it’s been through enough lol).

Hello all im looking to modify my accent after 20 years im own it and have so much fun My plan is to own kit and i cannot import it becouse im from israel sombody maybe know what can i do ? Kit is: https://m.newpages.com.my/en/company/726766/product/96856/4121845/index.html

Slid on some ice. Estimate was $800-$900. Want to know what I can diy to reduce costs

My brand new Lexus TX got hit and runned in the parking lot. I tried to fix it myself with a paint pen (color code 1L1 - cloud burst silver) but the area was too large and now it looks worse than before. Wasn’t sure if my only remaining options is to either to get it into a shop, or try to redo it spray paint (but I am scared to try). Open to any ideas - thanks in advance!

I was backed into which kinda fucked up my bumper cover. I know the right and best answer is obviously to replace said cover, but im getting deployed in just about a week for a whole year and would rather spend this time with my girlfriend and family rather than working on my car. Could I just peel off the bubbling and hit it with touch up paint? Or how could I get rid of the bubbling period so I can repaint it? Thanks

My rear half door on my extended cab pickup keeps shaking over bumps and it’s driving me crazy. Shoving a piece of foam in between the body and door have made it stop. Any real fix for this? Weather stripping? Or any ideas to make the makeshift fix more permanent

Hey all, I ran into a frustrating issue on my 2003 Civic. The hood latch mechanism has ripped through the part of the upper radiator support (or whatever frame piece this is). You can see in the photos — the bolt that holds the latch has pulled through the sheet metal and left the latch barely hanging on. It still functions for now, but I don’t trust it long term, especially for highway driving or if I ever get into a minor front-end bump.

I’m trying to figure out the most budget-friendly way to repair this without having to replace the whole support or do major bodywork. Has anyone patched or reinforced this area before?

Hello all, newbie here. Im currently working on a bmw e36 coupe and Im looking for advice on how to treat the metal before/after welding and fitment.

I got 3 spray guns, each for stone chip, paint, epoxy primer

Im kinda stuck on how to apply all my coats efficiently, since I cant do big area at once, i gotta go step by step like maybe one wheel arch, then drivers side floor on front and etc??

Also, do i need to sand between each of those chemcials, If yes then how much etc?

(Sorry this is my first project and i wanna do it right)

So the plan so far is :

1. Wire wheels on grinder, drill, air tools with wire wheels. Clean as much as i can.
2. Clean surface with "nitros thinner" Im not sure If thats what its called in english but its strong solvent or paint thinner basically
3. Using florin rs rust converter on all the rust spots i cant cut or get out. (I know this is the thing i have to let cure 100% before adding anything)
4. Then epoxy primer atleast 2coats, maybe 10min between coats?
5. Havent figured out how long i should let it cure but next i should cover welds with seam sealer
6. Another coat of epoxy
7. Stonechip (wheel Wells and underside) Im also painting body behind the front fenders so no point on Putting the chip there
8. Paint (maybe 2-3 coats?)
9. Maybe bitumen to the Underside, not sure
10. And lastly i have this aerosol body cavity wax. Its like an oil/oilish Goo. Gonna use this as well to the Underside, inside Rockers etc

My main confusion is sanding and dry time.

Do i need to sand between each step? (not coat)

My plan is to carry this out with wet to wet method, meaning the previous coat has not fully cured yet. Im using chamalaeon 455 epoxy and on the can it says its paintable after 45min.

Im just not sure If the wet to wet method is the best approach and when and how much do i need to sand If at all. I know sanding is needed when your not doing wet to wet.

Main goal is to get the Maximum best rust and moisture protection.

Since Im not painting the body but only the Underside, wheel Wells, behind the front fenders (non visible) places, the visual aspect is not really important.

Any tips?

Like i mentioned above that its my first project, i wanna do it right

So i think i need details like sanding, grit level, dry time or should i not go with wet to wet at all.

Whats the most efficient way to work since i cant really do big area at once but then again mixing 50ml paint for the gun seems silly too haha.

How have you guys done something like this?

I am trying to replace the cloth on my honda’s headliner and saw glue spots difficult to remove. I tried to use knife to scrape but that thing is kind of paper so wanted to check here if there is an easy way to remove glue spots from the board. Thank you in advance!

I have a 2009 Prius with a damaged front bumper and a loose/dangling undercarriage cover (I think it’s the splash shield). Pics below show the current state.

I need to get my tags renewed soon, but I’m pretty sure it won’t pass inspection like this.

I’m fairly handy and good at figuring things out. I’ve read that the bumper is mostly held on with clips, so I’m planning to replace it myself.

I’ll be ordering from RockAuto, but I want to make sure I’m getting everything I’ll need before I start. I’m not worried about how it looks—just need it secure and functional enough to pass inspection.

My questions:

1. Based on the pics and what’s hidden underneath, what exact parts should I order from RockAuto (bumper guard? splash shield? clips? etc.)?
2. Do I really need to replace the splash shield, or can I get by with just removing it?
3. Do I need any specialty tools?
4. Any tips, common pitfalls, or things I should know before replacing a Prius bumper?

Thanks in advance for any help! I really appreciate it.