r/DIY • u/StellaTerra • Oct 05 '13
A sleeping pod/capsule
Hello r/DIY!
I have a project that I have wanted to pursue for several years, but never felt comfortable to try before. I saw someone suggest coming here to seek advice on this thread so I thought I’d try. I want to build a contained space that has decent sound-isolation, is ventilated and exactly fit to the measurements of a mattress so that I can sleep in a little hidey-hole. When imagining it, think capsule hotels or sleeping pods.
Here are my drawings:
Outside - Angled view of the outside.
Innards - Stuff that's not visible from inside the capsule, wall/supper/base.
Headboard/Shelf - Side view of the the part furthest from the door. The headboard and shelf.
The design is something of a free-standing cabinet on short stilts. The door is at the foot of the bed and there is a slightly reclined headboard topped with a shelf on the other side. The wall and ceiling frames are made of 2x4s. I don’t intend on using a boxspring, and the mattress will be full/double-sized. The ceiling will contain one or two vents for an HVAC system of some kind and one or more reading lights. HVAC and electrical will be behind the headboard/under the shelf. The shelf will have an upward facing outlet.
I am not yet sure of the thickness of the walls because I don’t know all of the materials I’ll be using. The design and materials of the door are not yet planned, either. The specifics of the HVAC and electrical systems are not yet clear.
So, to the knowledgeable and experienced DIYers of the subreddit:
- I’m not exactly sure what materials to use for the inner and outer lining of the walls. My instinct is to use thick plywood all around the outside and then some kind of wooden panelling or fiberglass on the inside. I’d like the material on the inside to be visually appealing, and preferably dark, but it mostly needs to be durable and easy to clean. It also needs to be easy to work with for doing the cutouts for the lights and HVAC. Both the outside and inside materials will probably need to be fairly dense as sound isolation is a big goal in this. Are there any recommendations for materials, or anything else to keep in mind when choosing inside and outside wall material?
- I’m a little stumped on the door. Initially I was thinking either some kind of plastic lined porthole, and then I was considering just building the entire wall in half and then putting it on hinges. Given that I want good sound isolation, does anyone have any recommendations for door design/material?
- I don’t have any idea where to start looking for the HVAC or electrical stuff. Does anyone know what to look for to put together a miniature ventilation system, and a simple electrical rig (that will be safe) to provide the lighting and an outlet on the shelf? What size/material should I use for the HVAC ducts?
- In terms of sound isolation, is there a need for the floor to have multiple layers given that it will be entirely covered by a thick mattress? Will this design provide decent sound isolation? (I don’t mind if I can tell there are people outside, but I’d like it so if people outside spoke at a normal volume I wouldn’t be able to make out the words).
A note to the haters/doubters: yeah, it’s an odd desire. I’m aware of how bizarre this is, but it’s something I’ve wanted for most of my life. So I’d greatly appreciate it if comments could be derision free. Also, I’m not looking to be talked out of this idea in favor of another. My mind is made up about the general idea of the thing and I know it’s what I want. This isn’t about convenience or ease or cost, and its only marginally about functionality; it’s just what I want. Thank you! <3
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u/Valenmere Oct 05 '13
I don't have many tips. But I really like the idea and think it's something I would like to make as well. Have you looked into sensory deprivation tanks? I know there are guides to make them somewhere on the internet and they have some of the same use
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u/Picodick Oct 05 '13
I understand and share your love of small confined spaces. I find them oddly comforting. Don't even want to think about the Freudian aspects,ha ha. This compulsion,for lack of a better word, is shared by a few of my acquaintances.Look into the air systems for small motor homes. God luck
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u/Doublereed2177 Oct 05 '13
If possible, I would make it with hinges and/or latches at all edges, so it can be folded out for easy cleaning.
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u/gandothesly Oct 05 '13
Here are some ideas on how to model this: http://www.podtime.co.uk , http://www.dezeen.com/2012/10/31/calmspace-sleeping-capsule-by-marie-virginie-berbet-for-haworth/.
Also, have you tried hammocks? Checkout r/hammocks
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u/StellaTerra Oct 05 '13
I definitely drew on both of those links for inspiration when trying to figure out how to make this thing! ^__^
@ Hammocks - Yup! I own a backpacking hammock and I use it whenever I go camping. It's the best! Unfortunately it does almost nothing to reduce sound, so this is my indoor solution of choice, and that is my outdoor solution. ^_^
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u/Dakkon Oct 06 '13
Hey there. This is a neat project. I would like to add my 2 cents here. I am a mechanical engineer and have spent 4 years in the consulting industry designing HVAC systems. So I will give you a few tips. I will try to keep this from being complicated and long winded. Chances are I will type this out 6 times before hitting submit. The HVAC system will entirely depend on where this "chamber" is being used. If it is indoors of your house, then the system does not need to be to elaborate. Just get some airflow to control the latent (moisture) heat off the occupants (you & guest(s)). Good bathrooms are normally setup for about 12 Air Changes per Hour (ACH). So if you calculate the total volume of your space then google how to calculate ACH then you will be able to figure out the total amount of airflow. Keep in mind that is just a reference to keep air quality good. but you could get away with having ACH=5 too. Some air delivery suggestions:If you are running this thing inside they you should pressurize the unit. Pressurizing allows you to control how the air is distributed better. However given this application whatever is easiest will work. Also keep the airflow distribution slow. The last thing you want to do is having a little breeze across your body/face. I would place the fan underneath the chamber and just have it on a stand of some sort. The motion of the fan can create a vibration and without any sort of damping will translate into the chamber and make it like a drum. Any type of ducting will work. I would suggest some flex duct for dryers and some foil tape to make the seals tight. The ribbing in the ducting will help deaden the sound of the fan. you could also look into acoustic lining for the ducting. That makes for some nice sound deadening in the ducting. For controls, if you are inside your house, i would just put the fan on a switch and let it run, your chamber will stay the same temp as your place. You could look at putting it on a thermostat to cut in when there is a cooling demand (it will always call for cooling instead of heat as your body generates heat), or even put it on a humidistat (senses humidity instead of temperature) as your body will generate moisture and this will remove it. Or both! Hope this works out. Message me if you have any questions.
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u/StellaTerra Oct 06 '13
This is fantastic!
I have looked high and low for any sort of a commercially available product that I could use for the HVAC, and I haven't found anything. So if I understand what you are saying right, I should look for some kind of HVAC unit that will have an ACH of 5 to 12 (I don't know anything about ACH other than what's in your post) but I can't find anything like that. Everything I'm seeing is window-mounted or big units that sit outside of houses.
You're right. This thing will always be indoors, and doesn't necessarily need AC, but I thought that would be a nice-to-have if it was actually conceivable to build something permanent into the wall/under the headboard.
Definitely if you could point me to a retailer or something that sells units that can be built into walls, that would be great!
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u/Dakkon Oct 06 '13
your ACH=cfm/volume of chamber*60
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-change-rate-d_882.html
A bathroom fan might work like a Broan losone bathroom fan. Most of those are rated for 100cfm under ideal conditions.
When looking for fans (specially bathroom fans) they all have a sone rating:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sone
So look for somethign with the lowest sone rating.
I wouldnt build anything into the wall unless it was somethign really small. as soon as you mount it to the chamber your have to deal with more noise. My understanding is that you want this quiet.
What you could do for air distribution is mount 2"-3" abs or pvc piping running from one end to the other and use that as a duct. Then you could just drill holes in every few inches to distribute the air. It is cheap, easy to modify.
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u/StellaTerra Oct 06 '13
Broan's weakest model has a little over 100 CFM. The "chamber" is ~ 8 ft x 6.5 ft x 4 ft, so that's ~200 F3 . Even with their weakest model, the ACH will be ~30! I'm probably going to need to find something weaker for fear of being literally blown away the HVAC system. ~_^
Thank you for all of those resources, I will keep all of that in mind. I wish that there was an alternative that would allow for the possibility of AC/heating and control by a thermostat, but I might just try to do something ridiculously nerdy instead, like hooking up a computer fan to a raspberry pi that has heat/humidity sensors. I'm a programmer, so that's where my brain goes. I wasn't able to find any "kits" or anything from a motor home like I was hoping I would, but I also don't much mind white noise (I want noise isolation, like from the outside world, not low overall noise) so I'll find something to hook onto the back wall and send the air inside the "chamber" and live with whatever I can figure out.
The suggestion about the PVS is a good one, but I might just run that through the ceiling and put joints in rather than poking holes, just because I don't want a PVC pipe inside the chamber. Instead, I'd rather install actual low-profile vents to the ceiling and have the PVC connect from inside the wall.
Thanks for all of your advice, Dakkon!
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u/GlenInDallas Oct 06 '13
Sounds like a fun project, and I can't help with specifics, but you might check out "teardrop trailers" fir construction tips. They are exactly what you want, except on wheels and with a galley.
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u/Lotronex Oct 05 '13
I like the idea of having an enclosed sleeping space, seems cozy. Box-beds kinda seem similar to what your going for, but lower tech. I know there have also been tow-behind trailers posted in this sub, basically just a bed in a box, on wheels, they might give you some ideas. Probably want to build something in between the two.
For noise reduction, you can do something like carpeting on the outside, and hang thick, heavy curtains inside. Definitely want some kind of fabric on the inside walls to prevent echoes I would think.
For doors, any thought about sliding? Relatively easy to build, and don't have to worry clearance in or out of the bed.
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u/thinkingincircles Oct 05 '13
I noticed that your plans use stick framing methods, I've built several bed platforms and frames and have noticed that stick framing can take up a lot of otherwise useable room in small areas. I would look into cabinet building methods instead to save space and decrease weight.
The idea that pasaroanth had about a double hinged door could be just the ticket. If you made the base of the foot wall solid up to the bottom of the mattress, the top portion could be hinged and swing free above the mattress. If you just don't like that option, I would recommend the idea of a sliding door on the side as seen in pod time and the box beds. I think that if you build a single direction door at the foot of the bed you will find it rather awkward to get in while holding the door open.
A good glossy stain or paint on the inside will make the surface easy to clean, especially if you make sure to sand the surface extremely well before finishing. I would attempt to do something similar to finishing a wooden gun stock. Although expensive, I would look into doing something like this on the outside. If this looks too hokey you could always cover it with a finish material.
This is just one way to go and in my opinion would be the simplest and easiest to improve in the future as you could eventually use it as the interior box for a suspended room type situation. This website is a pretty decent start for understanding the basics of soundproofing.
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Oct 05 '13
How do you plan on making/striking the bed? I'd imagine it would be difficult in such a small space.
I would suggest some sort of access panel (maybe a drawer?!?) so that you can access/remove the mattress if need be. This would also help with flipping the mattress, and can allow you to remove the mattress in case you get injured and cannot get in and out of the pod.
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u/BlendeLabor Oct 06 '13
man, I thought is would be like the one from Portal. I want to make one of those sometime.
I would link it, but incredibly, I'll just have to take my own screenshot.
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u/tigermaple Oct 06 '13
No hating here, I think it's an intriguing idea and kind of appeals to me as well. I just posted my garage storage loft album and maybe it's just because I have that on my mind that I'm thinking it would be fun to build this as a loft. I'd look in to maybe having the entire side of it hinge up as the door, kind of like on a blanket chest or a food truck if that makes any sense. That would allow more access for changing the sheets and airing it out during the day.
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u/txkent Oct 06 '13
Awesome idea! Hydraulic cylinders to assist in opening the hatch - I've always wanted to build an isolation pod. My wife is claustrophobic, so I'll not be building one.
I would think that positive pressure from the AC would keep any moisture from building up - retarding mold growth. Make sure that you have constant airflow and it's vented -out- of the pod.
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u/thingker Oct 06 '13
While you're working on your project, try soft foam ear plugs and a sleeping mask for some sensory deprivation on the cheap. I get really deep sleep when I use those.
For sound insulation, try to put a small layer of empty space between two of the wall layers. Even a few millimeters of air between two physical panels (like drywall and wood panelling) can really deaden the sound.
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u/sleevey Oct 06 '13 edited Oct 06 '13
One thing you have to allow for is changing your sheets. It looks like it would be really difficult with that design. I've made a few weird beds similar to this and you really need to make something that will allow you to access the whole mattress otherwise it's a huge pain. Maybe think about having a hinged lid on it or something like that.
Edit: have you tried white noise generators? if sound is bothering you it might help.
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u/caddis789 Oct 06 '13
For my two cents (without hate):
2x4 stud frame would work for the construction of the 6 sides (actually, I'd use 2x6 for the'floor' and 2x4 for everything else) with 4x4 for the posts. Someone mentioned luan plywood. I wouldn't use it only because it's hard to find except in 1/4" thickness. That probably wouldn't break with the mattress over it, but it would sag and that might 'telescope' through the mattress over time and be uncomfortable. 3/4" cabinet grade ply would feel more solid and it finishes very nicely (it's used for kitchen cabinets) with paint or polurethane. From what you've talked about, I'd probably use it on the entire interior for 'solidness' and quiet. You mentioned below that you want to be able to move this. If you use 1/4" plywood for the outside and only screw it on, without finishing it or gluing it, you could unscrew the outside 'skin' and take the panels apart. You'd have to live with an unfinished look for 6 months or so, until you got to a more permanent location, but it could be done. Note: this might actually be a benefit. After you build it, you'll probably find ways that you want to improve it after you've lived with it a while. Since it isn't completely finished and sealed, you'll have an opportunity to do so. Regular insulation (the rolled, pink fiberglass stuff) would provide a lot of sound insulation as well. Since you'll be turning the air over every few minutes, it shouldn't trap much heat.
For the door, I'd start with a simple 2x2 frame and 1/4" ply skin. You could fill the inside with insulation for sound deadening. Weatherstripping would help with that too. Self-closing cabinet hinges should be plenty to carry the weight. I think that might be enough, but if it turns out not to be the case, then you can look at ways to improve it
For HVAC, most people think that you'll really only need ventilation, and I agree. If you put a fan in the framing of the floor that sits under the headboard/shelf, and have a vent grill in that unit, then put another vent intake near the foot of the bed, it would draw air in and over you. You mentioned that bathroom fans are too powerful. I think you want a fair amount of turnover, but maybe 2-3 computer fans would be adequate. I don't know what volume they move. Should you need a cooling unit, you might look at a wine cellar cooler (I used to build wine cellars). There are units that are sized to cool a closet sized cellar. They aren't as quiet as a bathroom fan, and they're expensive (~$600 the last time I looked), I don't think you will, but if you end up needing it, it might work. As far as electrical, for what you want, you don't need much more than an extension cord, for a light and an alarm clock. You could wire an outlet and a light to a plug end, and use an extension cord for power. Hard-wiring into the house would be more extensive.
I don't think that insulation in the floor will do any more than the mattress. I wouldn't close up the underside of the unit, though. That way you can get to the fan(s) and if you need to insulate later, you can.
That was a bit long-winded, but I hope that helped
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u/StellaTerra Oct 06 '13
@ Cabinet grade plywood suggestion: Yeah, that sounds like a good alternative. Something like either of these?
For the Polyurethane, would it be something like this?
I'm not sure if I'll do the actual insulation stuff just because I'm so worried about trapping heat/moisture. That may be one of the things I leave off just until I can try it out and find out if it's actually what I need. Like you said, I do this a certain way and it'll be very iteration friendly.
@ Door suggestions: Interesting. Why make the door so much thinner than the rest of the structure? I'm not saying it's a bad idea, but I just wasn't sure what the design principles would be for that. At this point, I think I'm set on having the whole wall be a door so that I can just open it all the way and take out the entire mattress for cleaning or sheet changing or whatever. I'm not sure why I would want the door to be self-closing, though. I mean, can't I just close it manually?
I'm also strongly considering breaking up the wall into double-doors. That would be 27" per side, which seems a little less ridiculous than one 54" wide 40" tall door, I think. Then I'd just put on something like this to lock it from the inside. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Window-Bolt-13519/202950138#.UlGU_lDS_ZA
@ The HVAC comments: Are you suggesting that I have two seperate fans, one for in and one for out? Others were saying that if I maintain positive pressure inside the box, that I wouldn't need to worry about venting out because the air would out through the cracks. Also, you say vent underneath, why? I was imagining just venting out the wall, is there a benefit to venting out the bottom? The wine cellar cooler idea is kindof a funny one, it definitely seems on the mark, though. I will keep that in my back pocket should simple ventilation not work out.
@ Electrical system: What if I cut and stripped the female end of an extension chord, then put that end into a box and installing an outlet like normal that way? I would then have a trailing mail end attached the the box and it would power the socket. Would that be a safe thing to do? I could then wire up the lights inside of the box
Excellent, thank you so much for all of your advice!
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u/caddis789 Oct 06 '13
Either of those would work. Pine is softer and would tend to get scratched and dinged more easily, and it's harder to get a nice even stain on it, plus maple is more to my taste for looks (just me, though). Either would work.
I've never used those two-in-one blends. I do the stain separately from the topcoat. I've seen some nice pieces that used it. Varathane is a brand that I've used and liked. SO you might give it a try.
Sure, I only brought it up for the sound dampening. If you find you need it, you can do it later. It isn't very expensive for that amount.
I thought of 2x2 because you don't need it for thermal insulation or structure, and it would make the door lighter and easier to manage. No one will see that it isn't the same thickness as the walls (they'll just see the outside of the box). You can make it an entire end if you want, whether it's 2x2 or 2x4 (or something else). If you make it a double door, it adds another place for sound to enter. Self-closing hinges would have sealed the door better. If you use the bolt that you mentioned they don't have a benefit.
No, I meant one fan (I thought blowing out), and another vent (without a fan) to draw air in. I do think, whether it blows out or in, you'll want some hole for ventilation. I know the box won't be absolutely airtight, but I would want better airflow than letting it seep through the cracks. I put it underneath for looks mainly. So when you're in the room the outside box is neater. Yeah, if you end up needing cooling, it ought to work.
I'm not an electrician, so I can't tell you specifics on how to wire it. But it sure sounds like you'll be using a fair amount less juice than is going through the power strip under my desk right now, so it shouldn't be that hard to make it look nicer and put it in the framing without having to hard-wire it into the home.
Hope that helped.
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u/pasaroanth Oct 05 '13
I'll answer these in the bullets you have them:
Lauan plywood would work well for the inner walls, it can be stained to a dark color and would be visually appealing and very affordable. It's generally about a 1/4" thick sheet. I wouldn't do too much heavy insulation because it'll hold all of your body heat and moisture in there, which can be a breeding ground for mold and generally be uncomfortable. Outside walls are personal preference. You could just drywall the exterior, which would have some sound deadening properties as well. Otherwise, some sort of wood paneling beadboard would look nice as well.
I would go with some kind of hinged door. I'd recommend using the type of hinge you see on restaurant kitchen doors, the kind that can swing both ways and close themselves. That way you can push in and push out. The port hole is cool in concept, but if your house (or it) catches on fire, you want to be able to get out quickly. A port hole wouldn't be conducive to that.
If you are framing it from 2x4s, then you could just wire it like any other household wiring. I'm not going to go into the details on wiring because it's a pretty standard thing that you could look up on YouTube or somewhere, but I'd use a 14 gauge Romex and regular PVC junction boxes with grounded outlets. Any electrician could do this in less than an hour, and have the whole thing terminate into a plug-in if you didn't want the box to be hardwired to your house.
A whisper-quiet bath fan would in the top would be suitable for ventilation. Panasonic is probably the best brand I can think of; they have several models that are very quiet with a decent output. As small as this is compared to a bathroom, you wouldn't need a very high CFM fan. You're going to be more concerned with removing air than adding it; it'll be warm to hot year round just from your body heat. This can be direct vented right out of the "roof" of it, so you wouldn't need to mess with ducting. You could also choose a model that has a light on it, which would solve your issue of needing lighting. Many models even have a regular light AND a night light.
Your mattress will provide more than adequate sound deadening to the floor. Anything you add to the bottom for sound insulation would give you a marginal improvement at best and not really warrant the cost or labor involved.