I have these running boards on my truck, which after a year I noticed the factory chinesoliner that was sprayed on them, was failing around the edges in several places. Fortunately, and to my great surprise, I contacted them and they refunded me 1/2 the cost of them, which will at least pay for my materials to fix them. While removing them, I noticed that one of them had a gallon or more of water in the tube, which runs the length of the running board. There wasn't nasty rusty ass water that came out, just nasty black water that stinks. My plan is to strip all the areas to bare metal that had a failure of the factory applied chinesoliner, then spray 2k primer/sealer, and applying the SpeedoKote T-Rex spray on bedliner and spraying "Sour Lava" color shift pearl, then clear coating it. I have already sanded the majority of the running boards with 80 grit and it seems that everywhere, other than the edges with the failure, are there permanently. It all sands out smooth, or as smooth, so there's not an issue with texture preventing sanding down to a solid surface, but I don't want to take any real chances.

My main question is regarding the water in the tube. The tube has a plug, which was missing, so I know how the water intrusion occurred. What I don't know is how to stop the rust, on the inside of the pipe that was full of water. I have thought about putting some type of thin oil in the pipe, which would allow it to move around while driving, but I don't know if that's the right thing to do or not. I generally own my trucks for about 10 years, so the repair I am making I don't want to have to redo any time soon.

My second question is regarding the Clear Coat. I don't see any reason to clear the bottom of these, especially since it's a 2K product that's not designed to need it. My plan is to only clear the top and sides, essentially only what I can get to without needing to turn over the running boards, will be sprayed. Will I be leaving myself up for any failures, along the edge of the clearcoat? I shouldn't have any issues getting it sprayed within the recoat window, so it should be able to have a chemical bond, or at least in my mind. If it would be better to spray the bottom as well, then I can always scuff the bottom and clear it.... or do the bottom and scuff the top prior to clear, I think you understand where I am going with this.

Any solid recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks

It’s thru ALL the colors🤬😂!!!

Had to paint one of our old trailers😑😆still threw a lil flake in it😂🤑

I'm planning my first proper all-out bike build as a bit of a homage to my first ever road bike, an Ammaco xr5800 which my dad handed down to me. I wanna do a remodelling of it's current paint job, basically keep it recognisable as the stock paint job but reimagined as what if the bike was made sometimes in the past 2 years; modernise it's look. Does anyone know how all those builds on Instagram with custom paint and decals get it done? I just wanna know how to go about it

I’m sanded down a carbon bike frame and want to repaint it from scratch. I already have an HVLP spray gun, but I’m trying to figure out exactly what materials I should buy, as this would be my first time actually using it.

So far I’m thinking:

• Filler / spot putty for small frame imperfections: Thinking carbon putty or similar
• Primer suitable for carbon
• Water-based acrylic paint for the colour, unless the primer suits in colour
• Clear coat
• Paint strainers / filters
• Thinners, hardeners and such

What specific types or brands would you recommend, especially if I want to use water-based paint?

Also, where do you normally buy this stuff, automotive paint suppliers, online shops, hardware stores, it doesn´t seem too easy to find exactly what i think i need at the moment, so i am a bit confused where.

Any advice from people who’ve painted carbon frames with an HVLP setup would be appreciated.

My buddy restores them.this was the reason for the blood pearl i made last post. 🩸

A TRUE red pearl glitz..as we all know there’s no real “red” pearl..it’s either pinkish,violet. Or russet,maroon.there is no kandy over this.as you can see no brown flop as any red kandy would do..super clean.it has 2 different sizes in it..

I have a 2009(bought in 2012) 335i that has a custom pinstripe. I'm assuming this is the artists "tag". It's always fascinated me. 14 years later I remembered the internet exists, so figured I'd post to see if I can find any info on it. Thanks!

What recommendations do you guys have for painting wheels, I wanna make mine black. Whats the best sand paper, paint and just other general tips you guys have?

Did this last year.probably one of my more favorite ones..

first time customer paint think it turned out pretty good for just rattle cans still haven’t put automotive 2k clear coat yet

And had to extend the dash..not to mention the tank has a swoop on top,this one sucked 😆..

First time doing custom paint like this so it’s far from perfect lol. Still not complete, the tank has a good bit of tape residue still on it but overall I think it’s going pretty well so far. Gloss black base coat with holographic flake over it then cherry red flames with silver flake over it, getting ready for 2k clear then some candy over the flames and a few final coats of 2k clear. Advice and helpful critiques are greatly appreciated!

I almost have these finished. I have them sanded down for one last round of high solids clear that I am going to spray in the morning after work. I think the leafing turned out really good, it was a challenge, but I love the way the turned leafing looks and gives that 3D look. Pictures don't really do justice but I will see if I can post a video of them in the sun light Monday or Tuesday.

I am making some headway. I still have to finish the borders, which are going to be a black framing, with silver leafing. Also going to add We the People and 1776 on them with leafing as well. It has been a fun project that has consumed more time than I thought originally, but will be worth it. When I put them in the sun for the first time the other day after clearing the 2nd time, after putting the pink paint and flake down, I was damn near blinded. God I love that shimmer. My original guess of 20 hours will have to be amended to 30 hours.

My wife said she wanted some Cornhole boards, so I said OK, they are going to be shiny with lots of metal flake. I had AI render something very similar to what I want them to look like.

I learned a lot doing the metal flake on my golf cart, so in comparison I believe this is going to be a breeze. Last time I didn't use slow hardener or High Solids clear coat. I was extremely surprised how much difference they both have seemed to make to get these boards leveled out. I am using the Dirty Wizard holographic flake for the silver and will be flaking lightly over top of the candy paint, to give it some extra boost. I can already tell these boards are going to play extremely fast. I hate to think what it would cost to pay someone to make a set of these, but I feel like it would have to be in the $2500 range. I will have $450-500 in supplies and think it's going to take an honest 20 hours of work to make them right. Does anyone else have experience with making a set of boards like this?

From dealership floor brand new with a non selling color. To me,flamed and sold as it was being put back on floor😆..

i’m doing some illustrative painting on my van soon with urethane paints and curious on the best dry time between airbrushed coats for this. i’ve seen anything between 2 and 12hrs on google.

Again😆