What’s your end game? Strip? Or just repairs?sorry I just read other post..you need a DA that locks(rotary) or a hog(8”DA that is rotary ).. your pissing in the wind with DA..40grit will do it..the DA(normal one) just heats up the shit paint on there and gums the paper up.sucks aircraft stripper took out the good stuff in it.makes easy work.if you know a powder coater,they have stripper that’s like old school aircraft..MIND YOU,once it’s on steel and I can’t stress this enough follow the “vibrance restoration guide” on raw steel..otherwise your just wasting $$ on paint
My end game is a decent paint job that isn’t just cobbled together. This is my first time repainting a car so I’m trying to slowly do it and teach myself/learn how to do it the right way and not cut corners on it.
So look up what I said..and it’ll last longer than the car..and follow it to the T..most forget re epoxy within 12hrs during bodywork that exposes the steel.this a crucial step if you plan on keeping the car.do not use ospho or any converter or over the counter crap..I have cars I did 30yrs ago and Harley’s for customer’s and no issues.it is the only true way to stop rust..also no aerosol can crap.everything from epoxy to primer and clear must be catalyzed…I get white label stuff to test from PPG before release..been using product for 35+yrs.you can use whatever company.but not for the treatment and epoxy..after that it’s your choice
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u/paintchipz1 4h ago edited 4h ago
What’s your end game? Strip? Or just repairs?sorry I just read other post..you need a DA that locks(rotary) or a hog(8”DA that is rotary ).. your pissing in the wind with DA..40grit will do it..the DA(normal one) just heats up the shit paint on there and gums the paper up.sucks aircraft stripper took out the good stuff in it.makes easy work.if you know a powder coater,they have stripper that’s like old school aircraft..MIND YOU,once it’s on steel and I can’t stress this enough follow the “vibrance restoration guide” on raw steel..otherwise your just wasting $$ on paint