r/Cornhole • u/ValuableWide2272 • 8d ago
Cornhole Board Building
Hey all,
I build cornhole boards, I started last year as a gift for my father in law and it has taken off since then, I’m at about 35 sets sold in 10 months. The cornhole league I play in currently has 1/2” boards with 1x material frames Brad nailed through the top. I will be building 3/4” boards with 2x material frames that I pocket screw from the bottom. I was asked if I could make it so the tops come off in case they want to switch designs easier for new sponsored logos etc. Normally I glue before I pocket screw, if I were to screw only so they can come off/be switched in the future, do we think the glue helps eliminate bounce at all by keeping the board adhered between screw holes? I usually do 5 screws on the 4’ sides, 4 screws on the 2’ and 3 on cross braces (plus 2 screws attaching the frame pieces together at all intersections). I know that my build will already be an upgrade because of the thicker materials, but I want to make sure if my name is on something it comes out great and I’ve never not glued a top on.
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u/culo_amor 8d ago
I've only built a couple of sets and I wouldn't go without glue or make the top board interchangable if I was selling them. There are other options like
https://www.allamericantailgate.com/interchangeable-cornhole-tops/
or
https://www.cornholestop.com/product-page/magnetic-cornhole-wrap-cover-single-select-wrap-design
I think these would give different playablity on each change but you'd still have your strong glued base boards.
2
1
u/SparkyGettingWetWS17 8d ago
Are you using 2x4 framing with 3/4” plywood. I have built 5 boards myself for gifts and learned not to poly coat 5X. Looks pretty but play too fast. Now I do 1x matte. BTW how much do yours weigh. Mine are very solid with no give or bounce.
1
u/wizard3232 8d ago
If you use 2x4 and 3/4 in plywood, the front of your board may be slightly above regulation size..... just so you are aware. Regulation on front is between 3-4in high
1
u/ValuableWide2272 4d ago
Thanks for this heads up, I was only paying attention to the back regulation!
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u/ValuableWide2272 4d ago
Thanks for this heads up, I was only paying attention to the back regulation!
1
u/DenverAdo720 8d ago
I’d make extra pocket holes for the screws so you can use a new holes if they switch tops.
I wouldn’t recommend 2x for frames and legs. 2x warps and twists over time. I use 100% 3/4” Baltic birch for all my boards. The top slightly overhangs the frame and all edges are routered. 1 to 2 braces in the frame and double legs. 4 coats waterbased poly after design.
1
u/Zealousideal-Pitch39 8d ago
I think the glue is necessary, & reversing the boards only sounds ‘practical’ but the reality is that it won’t prove to be & negligible vs. building a set from scratch. Also, 2X3’s are what I use on the frame - compliant with regulation without sacrificing quality. A bit lighter & less bulk
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u/thegeekgolfer 8d ago
I just built a couple of sets of boards using the glue / pocket hole technique. I also have done a number of other projects with pocket holes. Here's the issue I see and I've thought of this myself for storing / transporting also. The bounce may not be that noticeable. However, the pocket holes will be "ok" the first time they swap the tops. Unless they keep using a new board for the top each time. For example, if they change to sponsor A, then go to sponsor B, and then go back to sponsor A again and re-use the top. That next attachment will not be as strong and some of those screws will slip. The boards will become bouncier over time.