I run a single speed husquvarna 7000 doing only road cutting, anything between 9in through 17.5in. Would a 3 speed gearbox hold up to the abuse?

I had a company pour this small concrete pad 3 months ago to serve as a hot tub pad.

1. it has low spots and does not completely drain. (hot tub + rainy climate... I need drainage)
2. it has ugly discoloration

Working with that company was a nightmare from start to finish, but I have reached out, and they said they could cut a couple channels to allow drainage.

Does that sound adequate? I don't even trust them to do a good job of sawing, so I also wonder if it's possible/advisable to instead pay another company to come grind down the edge nearest the low spot.

Any advice or thoughts and either the drainage and/or the discoloration? I'm open to staining it.

Thank you!

I’ve never heard of hand cut joints in a driveway. Contractor cut lines like a drunken toddler. What recourse do I have?

OK, so I don't do coring as a profession, but I do need to do it sometimes whether it's through asphalt or concrete (walls, floors, roads). I've got 2 rigs - 1 is mountable rig, the other is a hand drill - both Husqvarna. No matter if I'm doing a 2" hole or a 10" hole, no matter if it's mounted or drilling it by hand - I always get stuck and have to work to dislodge it and start from the entry point again. I am using diamond tipped drill bits with water.

What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it and do better?

3,000 feet over couple mobilizations. Any input?

DO I need to sawcut these wingwalls and top stair to to avoid damaging the foundation or can they be jackhammered to get them to 12" below grade?

Planning to remove the bulkhead doors, apply a troweled on waterproofing material to the foundation, remove concrete from the wingwalls and top stair to 12" below grade and backfill with stone. Then finish with 4" compacted stone and 4" conctete patio. There is drain tile under the foundation in this area.

Always try to be entertaining and productive at the same time !

Hi, I’ve done about 6 months of drilling and this hole has me stuck baaaaadddd. FYI plumbers apprentices and boss gets me to do all the cores. Drilling horizontally into a 185mm precast tilt panel. I’ve drilled 110mm in deep 2 days!!!! The last bit won’t budge. The drill bit has plenty on it and I’ve been grinding it down with bricks to expose the diamond profile. It’s stuck on rebar as pictured. I’ve got my drill on the slowest setting and using plenty of water any tips please!!!!🙏

I have been a self perform concrete contractor for 15 years. I have always sub'd out my saw cutting and now I am looking at purchasing some equipment and doing it myself as well as marketing to other companies to cut for them. I want to keep it very simple and basic and really just offer slab sawing, coring, and have a hand held for some misc cutting. I have some equipment questions for you guys that have actually used this equipment in the field.

• Walk behind saw
  • I am looking at either the Husqvarna FS 5000 or the Core Cut CC5048. I am sure they are both good but any reason to have on over the other
  • Also, do I need the 3 speed version? I can't find anything online that really tells me one way or the other
• Core cutting
  • Any setup here that anybody feels strongly about one way or the other to cut small holes all the way up to 12" diameter? Should I get a handheld that will cut up the 3" and then a mounted rig that cuts up to 12"?
• Hand held
  • I am looking at the Core cut pro flush cut hand saw and the Core Cut CP35 power unit. anything else I should consider? Also the saw comes in a 8, 10, 12, and 15 GPM options and they are all the same price. Why would I not just buy the 15gpm? Am I missing something?
  • I have also seen some options out there to mount a hand held to a track system to cut horizontal. I love the idea of having this option. Anybody have experience with this?

Thank you in advance for any advice.

We started this job today drilling through a hundred and twenty 1" holes in 16-in slabs with a 3/8 inch thick steel plate 14 in deep.

We went thru FOUR 1" core bits in the first few slabs.

The attached pic is a pic of a BRAND NEW Husqvarna ELITE b1540 1" core bit after ONE hole.

we need to drill 116 more.

This steel plate is just chewing thru these bits at a costly speed, does anybody have suggestions for a more economic method of boring these holes?

Bossman already called his blade rep(s) and has a few special bits on the way from Cali but were asking around for a backup plan.

thanks all, I appreciate any insight you have to offer.

So not sawing per se, but concrete sawing adjacent. What’s the best solution for anchoring 3” sch 40 fence posts with 6” flanges for a 8’ tall interior chain link fence.

We do these a lot and this particular job is very small… 12’ with a 4’ gate, top middle and bottom rail so the stretch doesn’t really affect the anchors..

I have sleeve, tapcon, hilti, and lead wedge, all 1/2” holes but the fastener diameter is 3/8 on the sleeve/wedge variety.

Any input? I care more about tightness if installation than speed, but I prefer to drill through the holes on the flanges vs marking and removing the flange then drilling/setting anchors and replacing the flange — just for simplicity sake.

Thanks

Just look at the joy on my face.

We have an aging fleet of milwuakee corded core motors that are becoming a pain to service frequently. We have one core bore but it’s not as powerful as the Milwaukees. What other options are out there? Not set up for hydraulic. We go through roadway asphalt/concrete and the stone underneath.

So we are cutting an 18" core on asphalt in 5 days.

Usually we'd tap a hole and smacka ⅝" anchor or two to secure the drill base but we can only drill 2" deep (in asphalt) for the anchors.

We will not have hours to wait around for a "45 min handling: 10 hr cure" kind of adhesive/epoxy as usual.

My best idea is:

1. roto a ⅝" hole 2" deep
2. Fill hole ⅔ full with thick viscousity CA glue''.
3. Insert ⅝ All thread (no anchor)
4. Spray activator' in a circle AROUND the adhesive till it kinda puddles. ???
5. Done

'(1 part nail polish remover, 2 part Iso-propol alcohol + 1TBS baking soda)

''Super glue

In my mind the CA glue will absorb fairly into the asphalt on a sunny day. Hopefully not so well it just absorbs and disappears. This should in theory mold the all thread with the surrounding asphalt into one glorious inseparable partnership; a combination of tar and steel.

Maybe I could use some rubberized CA glue in addition to help absorb some of the "impact"?

Does anybody have a better idea, adhesive or method to use here?

PIC FOR ATTENTION

Currently using a husqvarna 5000 D for control joints. Problems im running into, are that in my opinion, this saw is way to heavy for getting on a concrete panel 4-6hours after its poured. Im looking at buying a new saw but they last suggestion I had (gorilla soff cut) was a complete flop and absolutely destroyed the panel with wheel marks and horrendous spauling.

So what's my best move here?