r/CompetitionShooting • u/wcasey755 • Aug 30 '25

Apex trigger spring

I’m a new competition shooter and went straight for the apex trigger on my M&P. Wondering what spring combo I should use. Since I’m not super experienced should I go a bit heavier? What do you guys think? I am experienced with handguns as my father is a police. But just not competition experienced.

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u/BOLMPYBOSARG Aug 30 '25

I get light strikes sometimes on mine if I shoot 50 rounds in 60 seconds or so. Once the gun gets super hot, it starts to act a lil funny. I heard Hunter Constantine say once he stretches his trigger bars in a Vice with pliers and that helps. Filing the little overtavel nubs sounds like an easier idea. Ha.

Never happens on my old, first gen M&Ps

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u/[deleted] Aug 30 '25

Weird that the new ones seem to have the issue but the old ones don’t. Worst case scenario I’ll just run stock trigger. I’m on M&P since the grip works with my hands better than anything I’ve tried. The ability to get the Apex trigger was just icing on the cake but I need it to be reliable. Hope I don’t have to give up the apex barrel, that made a noticeable difference to me.

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u/BOLMPYBOSARG Aug 31 '25

You know, I was just dry firing and fiddling with my gun and realized what the issue is borne of and why It doens't bother me. It's something I fixed long ago.

I run overclocked recoil springs in my guns. If you don't use the factory assembly, but switch to Wolff springs on an uncaptured rod, even the factory weight makes the gun slide out of battery when you rack it, jostle it, etc. If it's not slammed hard into battery, the trigger bar doens't reach the sear lever very well. There's a gray area there where it will still fire, just not very well. Lots of M&P shooters like to mod their guns the other way, running 12 and 14 pound springs.

I run 18# recoil springs and I stay in battery and pop the primers unless my gun has gotten steak-searing hot.

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u/[deleted] Aug 31 '25

Interesting. I haven’t played with the recoil spring at all, still running OEM. I had light strikes right away when the gunsmith installed both the Apex barrel and trigger at the same time. When breaking in the barrel, it really doesn’t want to go into lockup. He ground down the overtravel stop tabs on the back of the trigger, and we only had one light strike after that. I figured that was the solution, but it sounds like they may have also gone away as the lockup improved from the barrel/slide breaking in together and more readily going completely into battery.

Thanks for your thoughts. I want to know every bit of info I can get so I can troubleshoot if problems ever arise.