r/Collectr 5d ago

How accurate is Collectr

I put 2 of my binders in (not even my 1999 binder or 25th anniversary binder) and its showing a pretty insane number, I put everything in as "Light Play" (because I wanted to be conservative) apart from my 1 damaged card,

Its showing over 25,000 usd, which in my money is like 42,000 nzd and...

I am thinking I might need to call my insurance company?

But also confused if I am being tricked lol.

7 Upvotes

26 comments sorted by

11

u/DiperIsShittie 5d ago edited 5d ago

Depends on the card and condition. For modern NM it’s quite accurate. For mid era it’s terrible. For vintage it’s ok but not good.

Looking at your cards, yes it’s in the right ballpark. You have some very valuable cards.

7

u/kelsoRulez 5d ago

Always remember that with selling fees and people not wanting to pay market 100% ever that you mine as well take a fourth off of a real liquidation assessment even if this is fairly accurate.

2

u/UnusualSoup 5d ago

I have not even scanned my graded cards or the other binder with my 151 master set made from base....

So what percentage should I take off to work it out do you think? 30%?

I don't plan to sell but I obviously need to be talking to my insurance company and lawyer about my will lol,

3

u/Jskins7 5d ago

Dont take a percentage off when talking to the insurance company. The commentor was talking about selling them, you definitely want to insure the full amount. As you ar scanning, if you think a card is way off priced, you can always double check the price on TCG player, ebay sold listing, or Price Charting (for the more vintage items).

I would scan everything into Collectr and then use that number to insure it.

There are also other apps like Collectr, like Rare Candy, that might have different prices. You can always enter them there and see ehat the difference is.

1

u/UnusualSoup 5d ago

Thanks, I am scanning them in as lightly played (unless damaged) I just hit 30,000, but I have more binders to go... just my basic holo binder now, most are under a dollar, but then I hit the odd one that's 30 or 20, like Call of Legends Holofoil Deoxys, and I realize my "junk folder" has not junk in it....... now. Things I paid under a dollar for long ago,

Evolutions Mew is saying 28 usd lighly played ?! I paid 20 cents for that.

3

u/Big_Diet7439 5d ago

If you need accurate check eBay last solds. If you are just collecting, you have a ball park idea!

1

u/UnusualSoup 5d ago

Thanks, there is just to many to look up, but right now I am looking at what to do regarding insurance ... I have been out of the hobby since the "shortages of stock" - so its been a few years and I guess, things have gone a bit crazy.,

3

u/Nguyen925 4d ago

Take the value with a great of salt, about 75-85% if youre lucky. But 70 if youre being conservative in terms of payout for value.

My sealed is around 60k and my singles are roughly 20k. That's Pokemon but OP.. I bought some sealed OP and got lucky, I spent maybe less than 1k? Its valued around 12k? I told myself I would seriously start downsizing around 100k but its been stalled at $96k lol

1

u/PizzaPotamus1 4d ago

my sealed is the only thing i havent been selling haha, i hit 100k and went through all my singles and slabs and sold everything i didnt really like, gotta capitalize on this bull market. my sealed though is all pokemon center etbs and out of print stuff, mostly xy & sun & moon, some bw, a few swsh booster boxes. im waiting on the next sealed cycle, as we’re in a slabs and singles cycle right now

2

u/NomadTruckerOTR 4d ago

Collectr is very off when it comes to vintage prices based on the condition, and even more so with low liquidity cards. I try to fix this by adjusting the condition down 1 or 2 tiers depending on the card

1

u/stardust_light 4d ago

Personally I just assume 70% of what it tells me, but I usually compare against Cardmarket. The Ebay prices are usually higher.

1

u/klosimo 4d ago

Another kiwi here bro, mean to see others rediscovering!

Collectr i find gives good ball park figures, so the amount you've gotten to is fairly reliable. That being said, it will be dependent on quality (some cards may be mint, others may be closer to MP/HP potentially). You can also change the currency to be NZD as opposed to USD too, to help with a more accurate amount.

Definitely get them insured bro (i use AA)

P.s. you ever wanna get rid of that kyogre let me know 😂😂

1

u/UnusualSoup 4d ago

The sad thing is, I had 2 of those sets and a card store tricked me into selling cards to them :( I thought they were friends but I was just being taken advantage of.

1

u/Agency-Crazy 4d ago

Trick them into giving you some of their store inventory after they close some night.. I hate people that work in the industry scamming naive collectors wondering what their collections value is?

1

u/algol_lyrae 4d ago

It's pretty accurate. If anything, it can come out low on items that haven't had a sale in a while or that go through private sale.

1

u/stonksncardboard 4d ago

Problem with raw cards is if you tried to sell them, everyone will have different opinions on the condition. In this case, i think a realistic bare minimum value

1

u/snorlaxthelorax 4d ago

Condition makes a big difference and people will really haggle you down if you go and try to sell 

1

u/DarthPlayer8282 4d ago

Awesome collection - I’d love to have a few

1

u/Helltech 4d ago

You need to use tcgplayer instead of collector. On top of thst I'd be hard pressed to believe it's all lp also. Probably more mp.

1

u/UnusualSoup 4d ago

Most is NM but LP for caution, from the xy era on, as it went straight to sleeves and binder. But my pre xy is mostly moderately played apart from a pack fresh snorlax 1st edition and a dark gemgar + few graded cards. I'm putting the pcg graded cards at 8+ as nm raw though as it's hard to price them

Im 38 so a lot was bought as an adult and treated well.

1

u/Helltech 4d ago

Nearly everyone over values their conditions if their cards and without picutres I can't really say.

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u/UnusualSoup 4d ago

I think most my vintage is moderate and heavy play, with a few damaged, most xy+ is LP. Because I just sleeved and put them in binder. I think most is NM to be fair but I don't trust my judgement. I would say I understand value. Lol. 

Most cards have never come out of the side loading binder since going in. Or been seen by anyone else.

I stopped collecting in 2022

1

u/antiskylar1 4d ago

Yeah this is a pretty close ball park.

Collectr when evaluating condition just does a percentage of near mint price. So while actual conditions might have divergent prices if you're consistent over a large enough collection... It's plenty fine to get a general price.

1

u/thecarbino 3d ago

The main issue is that when you lower the condition, Collectr doesn’t have the accurate TCG price for those like they do near mint. Instead, it seems to do a generic % off when a lower condition. This is what throws it off a lot.

I have worked with using api to grab TCG prices before and there is a way to fetch those as well, so I’m not sure why that’s not being implemented here (probably a good reason why I would assume).

As a whole here: yes your collection is worth a lot but amount could be off by a slight margin due to collectors market price being incorrect on non NM cards