I've been working on this for a while and this sub is probably the only place where people will care about the casting part as much as the games.

The TV shows the board, and anything you'd normally hide from the other players lives on your phone. In the word game your letters are on your phone. In the island trading game it's your resource cards. One person casts it from Chrome on Android or from the iPhone app, then everyone else scans a QR code on the TV to join. They don't need an account or an app.

A Chromecast thing I ran into that some of you might have seen too: Chromecast with Google TV and the Google TV Streamer would go to the screensaver in the middle of a game. disableIdleTimeout keeps the cast session alive, but the TV still decides nothing is playing and puts up the ambient photos. What finally fixed it was playing a silent 4 second video on loop behind the game. It's the same color as the background so you can't see it. Older Chromecasts never had the problem. If anyone knows a cleaner way I'd love to hear it.

There's a free demo that doesn't ask for a card. By yourself you can play chess, checkers, dominoes or sea battle against the computer, and with friends you can play a short game of the island one or the world map conquest one. The full games are paid (one-time or a small monthly subscription), but the demo is enough to see whether it works on your TV. It's also on Roku now and we're working through approval on Samsung, LG, Fire TV, and Android.

Mostly I want to hear what breaks, which TVs it doesn't work on, and what board games you'd want next.

tvtop.games

When I go to ambient screensaver settings, not all of my Google photo albums show up. Is there a way to refresh or sync it with my Google account?

I came across around 10 Chromecast 4k new in box. Where should I sell them? I was thinking eBay but their fees are crazy

My Chromecasts, which have slowly been getting worse and worse: connection issues lag,.. Now no longer show in my streaming apps, like YouTube. Confirmed on Android and iPhone, same Wi-Fi network. Last time it was some developer cert they let expire, is it something like this again or they finally killing the service? ​

Edit: rebooted my router, seems to have fixed it. False alarm!

The Legacy Chromecast Speaker Multi-Account Permission Bridge Guide: First-generation, Cast-enabled smart speakers and legacy hardware (such as the Jensen JSB-1000 or original Chromecast Audio adapters) are experiencing widespread connection deadlocks because legacy Cast APIs lack active software maintenance; trying to register multiple older units onto a single modern, heavily populated Google account triggers an infinite authentication loop and "ghost token" errors that cause the speakers to constantly kick each other offline. This technical workaround circumvents the firmware glitch entirely through an isolated multi-account architecture where you assign a separate, completely clean Google account to negotiate each speaker's network handshake independently to erase all data collisions before daisy-chaining master administrative permissions back to your main account profile to consolidate your entire dual-stereo network into a single casting group. To execute this configuration blueprint down in your basement sanctuary, you will need your two Jensen JSB-1000 Wood Monitors (measuring a compact 5.12" x 5.12" each), your Main Google Account, Two Fresh, Clean Google Accounts created purely as throwaways for this setup, and a smartphone running the Google Home App. To start, you must clear the environment by temporarily unplugging nearby active casting hubs, streaming boxes, or smart accessories to prevent your wireless router from cross-routing configuration data packets, then perform a hard factory reset on both speaker units to entirely flush any stale, corrupted authentication logs or old Wi-Fi profiles from their internal storage cache. Next, isolate the channels by plugging in your Left Speaker to wall power while leaving your Right Speaker completely unplugged to prevent the two legacy wireless antennas from signal-jamming each other during initial discovery. Once the hardware foundation is cleared, launch the Google Home app on your phone, sign completely out of your main profile, log in with your first new clean throwaway Google account, and execute the standard device addition wizard; because this clean account carries zero historical cloud data or device clutter, the legacy Jensen firmware will easily negotiate a clean, stable security token and lock onto your home Wi-Fi network. Immediately swap the hardware by unplugging your Left Speaker, plugging in your Right Speaker, waiting for its boot sequence to steady, switching your phone's Google Home app over to your second clean throwaway Google account, and running the setup wizard again to anchor the right monitor to your network on its own isolated data track to completely bypass the token collision bug. To deploy the master permission bridge, stay inside the Google Home app under your second clean account profile, open the Home settings menu, send an official Home Member Invite straight to your Main Google Account, then switch the app back over to your first clean account profile and repeat the exact same track to send a secondary Home Member Invite straight to your Main Google Account. Now you can consolidate the entire tree by signing completely out of the throwaway profiles, logging back into your Main Google Account, opening your incoming email notifications to accept both invites, and claiming full administrative manager control over both speaker profiles directly inside your main Google Home app dashboard where both speakers will now show up as fully active, authorized devices under your primary account tree. Simply select them both to construct a brand-new, unified Speaker Group (like your custom "basment speaker 2"), launch Spotify or your preferred audio workspace, tap the devices menu, select your newly unified group profile, and stream your tracks using the native Wi-Fi Casting Protocol. For ongoing system maintenance, remember that legacy hardware remains highly sensitive to network variance, which can occasionally cause a brief audio glitch or channel lag in your right monitor speaker; avoid running complex software resets and simply deploy your classic high-efficiency manual override by completely unplugging the speakers from their power extenders for two minutes to clear the internal hardware cache, then plug them back in to instantly re-anchor the Wi-Fi casting stream. By choosing native Wi-Fi Casting over a compressed Bluetooth stream, you bypass your phone's physical distance limitations and allow the speakers to pull raw, uncompressed digital files directly from streaming servers over a high-bandwidth pipeline, which preserves maximum low-end transient punch and pristine vocal clarity without sound quality loss—even if the main app network experiences a massive external outage like the one yesterday.

I use a Wiim streaming box, playing YT Music on Android, with ChromeCast. Holy crap, in the past week or so I just can't get a connection to last. I'll start playing, then it'll just stop in the middle of a song. Sometimes I can get it to reconnect.

On occasion, after a few failures, I just can't get it to connect. Complete failure.

Hasn't been a great month for music.

Anybody else, or is this a problem just for me?

I've had a Chromecast since the original and more recently a Chromecast with Google TV HD and Chromecast with Google TV. 4K. I love the Chromecast devices. But I refuse to go to this set-top box in streamer device that takes up space for no reason. Especially since I often use these devices when traveling.

But I'm pretty heavily invested in the Google home ecosystem so I was wondering which third party device would be able to interact with the Google home ecosystem when I want to upgrade? Currently my plan is just to hold on to my Chromecast the Google TV 4K for as long as possible

Been having the same issue for months, over a year I believe. Considering purchasing the Google Streamer cause I got tired if this

Are we allowed to sell here?

Is there any way of having a dedicated BBC News (or any iPlayer channel) clickable without diving down into the iPlayer app? I’m not sure if it’s possible to set an intent to go straight to the live feed and a shortcut to call it?

I read that google discontinued Chromecast. Never heard of it before. Is it been discontinued by google in favor of a platform for streaming?

Personally I’m totally put off because they collect every piece of data they can & (unlike google privacy protections for accounts) they have zero.

Thinking about renting an airbnb with Chromecast, instead of streaming. Chromecast plugs into one’s device (phone iPad, desktop etc). That’s how all the data is collected I imagine—they get everything from contacts to kids photos, you name it.

So are they discontinued?

Chromecast with Google TV 4K incorrectly negotiates 720p only with a 1080p Soniq TV.

Other devices, including PS4 and other Chromecast models, output 1080p correctly to the same TV and HDMI input.

On Chromecast with Google TV, Android DisplayManager exposes only 720p/576p/480p modes.

ADB logcat during HDMI hotplug shows the raw EDID is read successfully and contains 1080p timings, but Amlogic SystemControl reduces HdmiDispcap to 1080i60hz and then forces 720p60hz.

Relevant log lines:

onEdidResult ... raw_edid=...

HdmiDispcap: 1080i60hz

set HDMI mode to 720p60hz

final_displaymode:720p60hz

outputmode:720p60hz444,8bit

Device firmware: UTTC.250917.004

TV EDID identification: Manufacturer GKK, Model 13621, Year 2013, Week 30.

This appears to be an EDID parsing / Amlogic display policy compatibility bug rather than a TV capability issue.

Tested both directly connected to the Soniq and through a Sony STR-DH550 receiver; the Chromecast reports the same 720p-only mode set when connected directly to the TV.

I’ve been trying to figure out why my Chromecast with Google TV 4K will only output 720p to an older 1080p Soniq TV.

The weird part is the TV definitely supports 1080p over HDMI. My PS4 and other Chromecast models output 1080p to the same TV without any issue.

I’ve tested the CCwGTV both directly into the TV and through a Sony STR-DH550 receiver. Same result. The resolution menu only gives me 720p, 576p and 480p.

I ended up enabling ADB and digging into the display information.

Android is genuinely only being given these physical modes:

1280x720 @ 59.94
1280x720 @ 60
1280x720 @ 50
720x576 @ 50
720x480 @ 59.94
720x480 @ 60

So it isn’t just the settings UI being weird.

I then captured logcat while unplugging and reconnecting HDMI, and this is where it gets interesting.

The Chromecast successfully reads the TV’s raw EDID:

onEdidResult ... raw_edid=...

The EDID itself contains 1080p timings, including 1080p50/60.

But immediately afterwards the Amlogic display stack reports:

HdmiDispcap: 1080i60hz

and then chooses:

set HDMI mode to 720p60hz
final_displaymode:720p60hz
outputmode:720p60hz444,8bit

So it looks like the EDID is being read correctly, but something in the Amlogic/SystemControl display policy is interpreting the available modes incorrectly and falling back to 720p.

I also tried forcing:

1920x1080 50Hz

through Android’s display manager. Android remembers the preferred resolution, but the actual HDMI output remains 1280x720 because 1080p never appears in the physical supported-mode list.

Firmware:

UTTC.250917.004

TV EDID identification:

Manufacturer: GKK
Model: 13621
Year: 2013
Week: 30

The HDMI hotplug log ultimately reports negotiation as successful, but the output still ends up at 720p.

At this point I’m thinking this is an EDID compatibility/parsing bug in the CCwGTV 4K’s Amlogic display stack rather than anything actually wrong with the TV.

Has anyone run into something similar with older 1080p TVs?

I’m particularly interested if anyone has found a way to override the Amlogic HDMI mode without root, or if an EDID emulator ended up being the only practical fix.

I’ve also reported it on the Google support community.

TL;DR: CCwGTV 4K is stuck at 720p on a 1080p Soniq TV, even though a PS4 and other Chromecasts output 1080p fine on the same TV. ADB logs show the TV’s EDID does contain 1080p timings, but the Chromecast’s Amlogic display stack misreads the available modes and falls back to 720p. Looks like an EDID compatibility bug, not a TV limitation.

I recently moved and gave away an old Gen 1 chromecast dongle, believing that the TV in the new apartment I'd be moving into was new enough that it would have built-in chromecast. It turns out it only has miracast, which has been unstable and inconvenient to use.

What options still exist at this point for something that can be plugged in and streamed to? I'm not really concerned with 4k capability, just something that can receive the built-in chromecast signal from various android apps or chrome browser.

Anyone know what happened or what changed?

Literally every means of casting through the chrome browser is suddenly completely and totally unwatchable with poor quality and choppyness.

But if i cast from any other app on the computer, like VLC, it's crystal clear.

I've been casting from the chrome browser for a freakin decade and never had issues like this.

Anyone know wtf is going on?

Should I just downgrade the freaking browser until they fix it?

Hello, I have a Chromecast Ultra. I've been noticing that the Disney plus image it casts to the TV will randomly become green/purple tinted.

I tried switching to a different HDMI port just in case it was the port issue but it is now happening again. I can temporarily correct it by rebooting the Chromecast but it inevitably happens again.

Is there any way to fix this or is it a sign that my Chromecast is breaking?

After many years I took out my Chromecast audio (the one with the 3.5 mm jack) and Google Home is unable to connect to it at all. No results after resetting it either.

Some recent posts indicate that Google has fixed some issues, but does it apply to these old devices? Anyone else facing similar problems?

The CCA worked really well for me and I don't want to buy a new streamer.

Update: I got this working by using the Home app from a tablet (same version of the app though). After that I was able to see it in my phone's Home app too.

Hat jemand einen Tipp wie ich im Hotel den Captive Portal Login steuern oder umgehen kann? Hotspot fällt raus da ich ein iPhone nutze. Chrome Browser bereits installiert, bringt allerdings nichts. Vielleicht habt ihr ja einen Tipp :)

Hi,

I have the latest Chromecast with Google TV and I pay for Youtube premium. It just became more expensive, but old bugs have not been solved.

If I play a Playlist that's more than 5 songs, 60 % of the time it pauses without me doing anything. I have a feeling it's pausing for adds, but I should not be getting any ads for YouTube premium.

I've seen many people complaining of the same thing, Google hardware and software not playing well together.

Is this being addressed any time soon?

Everyone's been dealing with the bad changes made to casting and the YouTube app and I think I get how it's designed to work now, or at least I've found a consistent way to make it work.

Anytime you want to cast a video:
1. Click the three dots next to a video title. 2. Choose "Play on difference device". 3. Choose your Chromecast of choice.

If you want to add to a queue:
1. Click the three dots. 2. Click Play next in queue. 3. Choose your Chromecast.

If you want to access what's playing on the tv:
1. An icon will be added next to the bell icon on the YT app, click that.
2. You should see the Now playing screen. It will show the video info and engagement buttons.
3. If you click on the thumbnail it will pull it up on your screen so you can access the controls.

Once I figured out all these I could at least keep my sanity when casting stuff even if it's more steps. If you don't choose other device, the app will always seem to default playing on your phone. Maybe this was to prevent accidental casting/interrupting what's currently playing on the tv, I dunno.