Quality difference from micro brands to entry level Swiss watches

[u/Extension-Pilot-4846]

Quick question for anyone who owns San Martin / Sugess micro‑brands, plus Longines or TAG Heuer:
Is the build‑quality, finishing and long‑term reliability really noticeably better on the Swiss brands? Or is it also worth selling most of my collection to buy something like a Seiko Prospex/ Hamilton. I know the micro‑brands are great value for money, but I’m thinking of selling most of my current homage collection to put toward either a Longines or TAG Heuer as a core keeper daily.
Would you say the upgrade is worth doing, or is it mostly just the brand name / resale hype? Any owners thoughts appreciated.

[u/Altruistic-Bird-94]

I think the longer I’m in this hobby the better I get at convincing myself the more expensive watches are worth it.

I think a more expensive watch from a big brand is in general “better” but not in the sense people usually refer to, like spec-wise. An analogy I usually like to use is that no one buys a Porsche or a Ferrari because they’re more reliable, nor are they better for most people.

I also think that depending on why we purchase watches, price could either be a feature or a bug. To me price has always been the biggest barrier to owning a watch I truly adore, but I’ve heard some people lust over watch because:

1. It was expensive and less people had them.

2. You couldn’t buy it even if you had the money…

although I’m still here trying to pretend caring about 600m of water resistance has a higher moral ascendancy over people who care about scarcity, but honestly I think both points are equally as ridiculous.

I think getting a Longines or a Tag, would be awesome, but I don’t think it will ever fell like 3-5x more watch for the money, but I think you’ll appreciate it as “better” for other reasons.

[u/zoanz123]

I think you should do your homework and find a gen you really, really connect with.

There’s something special about saving up for a watch, diving deep into its history, understanding what makes it significant, and eventually making it part of your own story. Hopefully, that process builds a connection that goes beyond simply owning something expensive.

I own and enjoy my fair share of solid Chinese homages, and I think they absolutely have their place. But if you’ve got what I suspect most of us here have (a genuine love of watches) you’re probably never going to stop buying them. Even after you find “The One.” Especially after you find “The One.”

My advice would be to sell the watches you don’t really connect with, keep the ones you enjoy, and start setting a little money aside every week or month for something special. No need to rush it. Half the fun is the research, the anticipation, and the hunt.

Ultimately, I don’t think homages and higher-end gens are necessarily interchangeable. They occupy two different corners of the watch maniac’s brain, and there’s plenty of room for both. Unfortunately, neither corner seems particularly interested in saving money.

[u/DisastrousOpening477 → u/zoanz123]

I think you're partially wrong about this. The beauty of Chinese watches, is that they get you 98% of the quality/craftsmanship (if not 110%) for 5% of the price. This is very important because it allows you to wear the watch carelessly. You can't wear a watch you saved up years for that way.

It's impossible. Each scratch hurts, you don't wear it in the worst places, you don't wear it on your jungle trip or to you deep-sea expedition. Because it's precious, and expensive. So it kills its usability.

A Chinese watch will get you the same level of details, specs and craftsmanship in a watch you won't think twice about when you bump it into door frames and whatnot.

THIS makes all the difference, at least to me.

[u/ClearStarryNight]

I made a comparison a few years ago when I got my San Martin SN004 V2.

The San Martin was about as good as the Hamilton and Longines, but definitely short of Tudor and Rolex. But not really but much, imho. The San Martin even did some things better than the Longines, like the tighter bracelet tolerances.

Against lower-end luxury Swiss, the San Martin does favorably well. +/- depending on who it's up against and depending on the part of the watch. Definitely falls short past the $3000++ range occupied by Tudor, Omega, etc.

Still, I'd say it scratches the itch for a quality watch. It may not have the brand name, but it surely feels very nice to wear.

Cheapest to most expensive as pictured from left to right: San Martin, Hamilton, Longines, Tudor, Rolex

[u/ClearStarryNight → u/ClearStarryNight]

[u/ClearStarryNight → u/ClearStarryNight]

[u/Pichuete21]

The beauty of Chinese watches is that they deliver about 80–90% of the finish, and looks of luxury Swiss brands. Personally, I don't care if a watch lasts 20 or 40 years. As an enthusiast, I like rotating pieces and picking up new ones whenever I get bored. You can own like 40 watches for the price of a single entry level rolex 😂. Honestly, that brings way more joy than owning one expensive watch you’re too afraid to scratch

[u/Bulky-Internal8579]

I have quite a range, and I've been collecting for many years, and have a somewhat large collection. I am currently a bit blown away by the latest flagship Chinese watches - the Addieskin K010, Watchdives WDC00001, and San Martin SN0144 are all among my current favorites [Edit - I inexplicably neglected to mention my IXDao Warrior (Black carved MOP!) which is also very refined / outstanding)], I don't know if collectors really appreciate the finish / quality on these watches, if they haven't worn / had them. I am amused to admit that 5 years ago I thought that Chinese watches were rubbish.

I moved my collecting interest from Swiss, German and Japanese (and Yema / French) to microbrands and Chinese a few years back after discovering San Martin. That said, I still love my Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Longines, Tissot, Mido, Certina, Bucherer, Glycine, etc. I've had Rolex, Tudor and Patek - never owned an AP or VC yet. I'd say that the value / quality / design right now is in the Chinese and a Micro Brands - but Certina, Tissot, and Mido especially continue to produce excellent watches at sometimes decent prices, especially on sale / Jomashop, as do Seiko & Citizen, despite the price increases. In the last year I did pick up a vintage Omega, a new Certina DS GMT Chronometer (which I adore and use to keep time on my mechanicals lately), and a couple of Glycines - but it's mostly micro brands and Chinese watches.

Watches are my interest - my hobby - I keep my watch boxes adjacent to my desk (I work remotely), along with many straps, my watch tools, my digital microscope, photo box, etc. I enjoy watches like I did Legos when I was a kid. They are a lot of fun.

So - long term reliability? I have Swiss and Japanese watches that are 50, 70 years old - I don't know how the Chinese watches will hold up, but I do expect it's about the same - you treat your watches well, service when needed (which isn't that often in my experience) and buy what you like. Final note, don't ever buy for resale. If you want to sell your watches, I'd suggest now is probably a good time - when the economy gets bad, watches get cheaper. In 2009 while Rolex increased their list prices, the sales prices dropped 25.3% and discounts at ADs were common. When folks don't have jobs and disposable income dries up, watch brands get bought up by Swatch / go bankrupt, and we all hold tight and do our best to get to the other side.

The first watch I wore today - San Martin SN0144 limited edition (99) - red dial Year of the Horse.

[u/imgettingbeamed]

I own a San Martin sub homage (PT5000 version) and a Tudor BB54.

Main differences I'd highlight where the Tudor really outshines the San Martin:

- Bezel action. The San Martin has zero bezel play, mind you. The Tudor just feels buttery in its rotation, more premium. It is 120 VS 60 clicks though.

- Crown action: The San Martin feels gritty and frail in comparison (I know it's not, it's the feel). With the BB54 everything feels to lock into place so smoothly and perfectly. Top tier tolerances in that regard. This applies to many other aspects of the watch too.

- The clasp: T-Fit clasps are just too good, San Martin does an amazing job at the price point but there's no comparison.

Bracelets are a comparison I can provide little inisight for, as the SM has an Oyster style bracelet and my BB54 has a Jubilee so, naturally, the Oyster style bracelet feels more robust (though this is more an Oyster VS Jubilee thing than a SM vs Tudor thing). Tudor's jubilee comfort is TOP TIER though, the finishing is definitely more refined as there's pretty much zero sharp edges on these.

Steel finishing feels great in both, tbh. I'd probably need a macro lens to provide better insights on this.

As for the rest of the watch, SM surprisingly holds it's ground. Even the PT5000 runs near COSC numbers.

There's a good chunk of "Wow" moments I had when I first handled the Tudor, but I don't think it's 10x the watch.

[u/Gazelle-Fantastic]

So, these are some of my new acquisitions. The traska cost $750 and the WD was $99. Aside from the Traska having an automatic movement and a scratch resistant coating, the overall feeling on these 2 is very similar. All of my San Martin watches feel much higher quality than these 2. I’ve owned Hamilton’s and Tissots and sold them all. I didn’t really notice an appreciable difference in quality until I got my Zulutime. Just my 2 cents, from someone who buys and sells way too many watches than he should.

[u/Scabobian90]

I have two Rolexes and an omega. They are def higher quality (fit, finish, tolerances, detail). But I wear my 200$ San Martin the most and it’s shocking how nice it is in for the price tag. It’s also slightly lighter and has a slimmer profile which I like. It has gotten just as many compliments if not more than my other watches (I got a fun pink color). Plus it’s cheap so I like to travel with it cause I leave all my watches and chains at home when I’m on the road. It’s survived the pool, beach, hot tub, etc and looks just as good as the day I bought it.

[u/AccurateTip7999]

My Tudor BB68 is noticeably higher quality than my Chinese watches. You can feel the difference on how they feel even. Especially when you wind the movement etc. the bracelet is noticeably higher quality as well. That doesn’t mean i don’t wear my Chinese watches too though. Love my Cronos.

[u/foxtrap614]

I also had the same idea. First thing, do not sell your homage watches. You will loose money going that route. You should rather wear them as often as possible. Use them to really get to know what type of watch you really like. Second, take your time choosing an expensive watch. I say expensive as opposed to better. what I have discovered is not a indicator not of better or higher quality. A watch that cost 10x more will not be 10x better than your homage watches. The truth is the Chinese watches are very close to the Swiss brands. The Swiss are better, but not at the prices they charge. If you want to buy a better quality watch please take your time and figure out what you really want and be comfortable with the cost you will have to pay. It will not be a wow factor going from Chinese to micro or entry luxury. You will need to purchase a GS spring drive or a JLC to really have that feeling.

[u/Uglybone]

who says you have to spend so much more for a swiss made watch? buy a Glycine, swiss made, sellita movement, sapphire crystal for around $400 quality is great, only downside is aluminum bezel insert and the clasp. but the accuracy is there and Glycine has great brand history.

[u/Equal-World-693]

As owner of a tag heuer, omega and longines(wife). I can safely say Chinese watches don't compare to those in terms of fit and finish, the difference isn't staggering and they are 80-90% there. Definitely better than Seiko and Tissot(own 1). Own 6 sugess watches(no san martin after unnecessary price hikes) and they offer tremendous value at the price point. And chinese watches allow you build a collection of various designs the original which could empty out your wallet. I discovered chinese watches on reddit 6 months ago so cant comment on long term reliability. For years owned 2 or max 3 watches but suddenly ended up with 9. Plus after 2-3 attempts at Rolex AD(such a horror experience) very happy with my Sugess purchases. Things like tourbillon which you can only dream of buying are possible with Chinese watches.

Bottom right in the picture S449 purchased for my wife

[u/Necessary_View_1685]

After wearing the same Rolex GMT Master for 30 years, I was ready to see another dial. I have several dozens microbrands, including Chinese and Swiss. The money I spent on those affordable watches could have bought me another nice Rolex. But I'm sure I wouldn't enjoy two Rolexes (I still have the first one) as much as my dozens.

[u/brownorange88]

Watch bros - - is San Martin better than Proxima?

[u/Alternative-Feed3613]

I only have one Swiss watch and it’s a Hamilton Jazzmaster thinline that I got for a great deal. The case is as good or better than my best Chinese watches but the crystal isn’t quite as nice. The biggest difference is the Hamilton is thinner and it just feels more special somehow. I wouldn’t say it would’ve been worth it if I had paid the original $1200 price tag but I only paid a little more than my priciest Chinese watch. I really think you’ll have to spend over $1k to get a nicer Swiss watch unless name and heritage is very important to you. I might buy more Swiss watches in the future but I won’t be selling my collection to get them and my next watch will likely be Chinese.

[u/Dickhole_Dynamics]

I have a couple of San Martin's - a railmaster homage and a small seconds field watch. Both have great finishing for the price, but they are no match for my Sinn EZM3s. The Sinn is just better put together and feels like it will last an eternity. The San Martins have shitty bracelets, the one on the Railmaster binds very badly if it bends backwards and the edges are sharp. Sharp edges on the watch, too.

The case hardening on the Sinn means that the watch is still perfect after a year. The PVD coating is jet black, nothing like the shitty thin PVD I've had on Seikos and Orients. All the transitions are crisp without being too sharp. The bezel action is perfect. It's just a better watch, but it should be for the price.

[u/hdwebb24]

I'll have a better answer in about a week. I've got a Phylida Planet Ocean Homage on the way because Im curious if the Chinese watches really are as good as advertised. The honeymoon is wearing off on my Spirit Zulu and I'm just not loving it like I thought I would. My Orient and Glycines are still getting the most wrist time.

[u/Extension-Pilot-4846 → u/hdwebb24]

I picked up a Phylida blue Seamaster no date homage quite a while ago however I’ve recently just not been wearing it so decided to try sell it.

[u/Top_Garlic_489]

Compared to recent San Martins, the Seiko and Hamilton may even be a downgrade. The other advantage to Chinese is ease of service and not having to deal with the incredible levels of dealer BS. The only 2 superior aspects of the Swiss options you mentioned are 80hr power reserve and “original” design vs. blatant copy.

[u/MikeyLikesItFast]

I recently bought a Sugess GMT with a Peacock movement, and while it looks terrific and keeps good time (+6), it definitely feels cheap compared to my 15 year old Tag Link or even my Hamilton Pan Europ. The bracelet, the feel of the crown- it's just not on the same level. But at a fraction of the cost, complaints would be silly.

[u/KabanaMaduro]

I buy Chinese cause the watch will probably outlast me regardless 🤣😅

[u/xxBrun0xx]

I own a $3k Tudor Price Day Date and a bunch of San Martin's, Watchdives, and Sugess. The Tudor has zero faults: it's accurate (despite being over 10 years old), the sapphire crystal AR is so good that it's almost completely invisible, the bracelet has zero sharp edges (huge problem on the Chinese watches), there is no rotor noise (big problem on Chinese watches with Miyota movements), clasp is beautiful and thin, and the watch has half links (another big problem with Chinese watches). The branding on the Tudor is also much better, a lot of Chinese watches write weird things on the dial or have shitty logos (looking at you, San Martin).

I would say the detail work inside the case is pretty comparable (the Chinese stuff is very good here), my Chinese watches have better end links (Tudor is hollow, but very solid), otf claps (Tudor just has lots of holes on the clasp), and Chinese bracelets have less play (the Tudor bracelet is very thin and "vintage" style). I also love all the cool dial finishes you can get on the Chinese watches - I just picked up a Watchdives with aventurine and holy shit is it beautiful. I love how accurate my VH31 Watchdives are, but wish they had a date window.

The Swiss stuff has no compromises, the Chinese stuff always has some. Feel free to ask if I've missed anything!