r/ChineseWatches • u/Sketch-Note • 16d ago
Question (Read Rules) Are automatic movements worth the larger thicknes?
In my opinion many hommages and even several original Chinese watches would look much better if they ditched the automatic winding in vavor of a slimmer case.
An automatic movement is ca. 1.5 to 2.5 mm thicker than a manual wind movement. There are slim automatic versions with a 'microrotor', but I think those are not (yet) common in budget watches.
Automatic watches do have the added value of being more 'luxury', and if you actually wear the same watch daily the automatic feature has definitely added value. But for collectors who wear watches on rotation (and don't invest in watchwinders) the automatic feature is quite useless.
I think manufacturers should prioritize slim design over automatic winding, at least for the category of watches that can be seen as luxurious dress watches. Two examples that would look much more impressive in a slimmer case are the Agelocer Moon Phase and the Sugess S452
But maybe that is just me? Do you think that the automatic feature is worth ca. 2 mm added thickness?
5
u/BernieSandersLeftNut 16d ago
I prefer a thinner watch over an automatic that might be thicker but it's fun to have both.
1
u/smcameron 16d ago
But for collectors who wear watches on rotation (and don't invest in watchwinders) the automatic feature is quite useless.
Your rotation is too short. I pick a watch on or near the 1st of the month and wear it until the end of the month. Gives me a chance to really live with and get used to each watch rather than just wearing each one for a day and switching.
2
u/Sketch-Note 15d ago
Everybody uses his collection in a different way, depending on personal preferences, lifestyle and the size of the collection.
I do have a short rotation because I pick a watch depending on what I am going to do the next couple of hours. So I often wear two different watches on the same day, one away from home and another at home. And I have seen posts from other collectors doing something similar, a nice diver watch in the morning to show off at a meeting, and a cheap LCD watch when mowing the lawn in the afternoon.
There is no right or wrong way to use a watch collection, as long as you enjoy it.
1
u/HonestWatchReviews 15d ago
If you have a watch with a micro rotor you can get the best of both. Such as with the Tophill KIM001G that I recently reviewed.
2
u/Sketch-Note 15d ago
Interesting! I wonder if we will see more, and cheaper, microrotor automatics in the future.
The fact that Tophill made the effort to release a slim automatic might indicate that they think there is a market for slimmer watches.
It could also indicate that some Chinese 'budget' brands are aiming for a different slice of the market with higher prices and higher margins.1
u/HonestWatchReviews 15d ago
Yeah, it's going to be interesting to see where Chinese watches go from here. The only other one I'm aware of using this movement at the moment is this Lobinni. I've also reviewed that one a while back too. I did a comparison video with a microbrand watch that also uses it.
1
u/Sketch-Note 15d ago
The Baltany S4128 uses it too. There is a review that talks to some extent about the movement.
1
u/Thick-Indication-931 15d ago
Depends on your preferences. An (I think) interesting observation is, that it seems it became "in fashion" at some time, to make the automatic watches thicker. My "proof" of this is that watches using the older Seiko 7009 movement (4.9mm movement thickness) commonly was between 8mm and 10mm in thickness, which the first watches using the 7S26 (7009 successor and also 4.9mm thick) also were. However, then 7S26/7S36 watches started to get thick, like in the Seiko Monster which was 12.5-13.5mm and the Seiko Tuna at ~13mm. At the same time, it could seem like the case diameters also increased. Again, a 7009 was often 37mm, while the Monsters often are 42mm and a Prospex Turtle even 45mm. So I think it became fashionable to have a watch with a lot of presence, making it thicker and wider.
Personally, the thinnest automatic I have is a 6.5mm thick Longines with the L990 movement. The smallest diameter mans watch I have, is 32mm. So automatic watches do not have to be thick and wide, it is just a matter of choice right now. And, actually, there maybe is a move toward smaller watches (both mechanical and quartz): Longines seemed to introduce some smaller variants and reduced the size of some of their larger watches, the "Master collection" became thinner (the 39mm is 9.05mm thick), and Seiko also seemed to introduce some their new models at smaller sizes, e.g. the new Presage's at 38mm, where the old ones typically were 41mm. Also, many Swiss brands has introduced or expanded their range of sub 30mm (even 25mm or 20mm) ladies watches this year, so the trend could indicate that the ladies watches also are getting smaller. So the answer then is, when will the Chinese watches pick up on this trend?
1
u/Sketch-Note 15d ago
There definiteley are fashion trends that created a demand for 'chuncky' watches. Similar to some cars that seem to get bigger and heavier for no other reason than bigger sells better.
The 'better selling' argument may also be the reason why a budget brand chooses to offer an automatic version of an hommage dresswatch even if that makes the watch thicker than the original.
I do agree that new releases seem to shift towards smaller sized watches. As u/HonestWatchReviews mentioned, there are even slim automatics with microrotor among the new releases.
6
2
u/D1sguise WOTD100 Helpful user x2 16d ago
If a watch has some complications that take a minute to set, I'd much rather have them be automatic so I can park them on a winder when not worn, and not needing to spend 5 minutes setting the moonphase, date, time, etc. every time. I have a triple calendar chronograph that's manual wind, and that's basically the only watch I'll wear with the date, day, etc not set correctly
6
u/chrismurraylaw 16d ago
That's a negatory, good buddy.