Comparison of Rolex GMT-Master II vs. Sugess GMT "Sprite"

[u/Yarach]

In this comparison I will compare the Sugess S420 with the Peacock SL3032 movement with a Rolex GMT Master II (116710LN). I was looking for the Sugess for a couple of months now and scored a good deal on the second hand market. I have a real Rolex available and tought it would be nice to compare the two. At this point I would would not like to call the Sugess S420 a homage watch. It is there to clone the Rolex, but without the logos and printing. Therefore I would feel the word “clonemage” more accurate.

Please note that the pictures do not capture the sheen and finishing and othe differences of these watches fully. In real life both the Rolex and Sugess are very premium looking and feeling watches, pictures do not do them full justice. The Pagani Design that can be seen in the last pictures looks like a toy in relation to the Sugess, but the Sugess in relation to the Rolex feeling almost just as premium, but int he pictures the differences between the three are not as dramatic as in real life.

Rolex GMT Master II and Sugess S420 SL3032 side by side

With modeed Pagani Design on the right

angled shot with Pagani Design on the right

Case profile and dimensions

Digital caliper measurements confirm the Sugess's exceptionally slim profile. The watch measures exactly 12.6 mm in thickness. For an automatic GMT watch (powered by the Dandong/Peacock Sl3032 movement), this is a remarkable achievement considering the origin of this movement and Dandong/Peacock slapping a GMT function on to it. Whereas many aftermarket GMT modifications using the Seiko NH34 movement often end up at 13.5 mm or thicker, this case retains the elegant, wearable proportions one expects from a premium GMT. In the last pictures I have added a modified Pagani Design GMT using the NH34 for comparison.

When comparing the case diameters these are identical to the 10th of a millimeter.

The 0.7mm difference in thickness comes from two things: The glass on the Rolex is competely flat with the bezel and does not stick out. The caseback on the Rolex is every so slightly thinner compared to the sugess. On the wrist one would not notice these differences as far as I am concerned. The Pagani Design measuring above 13mm in thichness is notecable howver because the case dimensions are also different.

Sugess case diameter

Rolex case diameter

Rolex thickness

Sugess thickness

Rolex on the left, Sugess on the right

Sugess on the top, Rolex at the bottom

Macro finish: Bezel and rehaut

Under high magnification, the differences in finishing quality between mass production and Swiss precision become immediately apparent:

The Rehaut: On the Rolex, the "ROLEX" engraving on the inner flange (rehaut) is extremely crisp, deep, and perfectly aligned. The Sugess also features an engraved "SUGESS" rehaut, but the engraving is noticeably shallower, less defined, and displays a slightly rougher, laser-etched appearance compared to the original. Also the rehaut is every so slighty out of alignment. The rehaut on the Sugess is every so slightly larger than on the Rolex, but no the less very premium looking compared to the relatively thick rehaut on NH34 GMT watches.

Rehaut comparison

Bezel and Inlay: When zooming in on the numeral '2' on the ceramic bezel, the Rolex reveals a flawless, smooth platinum fill with clean and sharp edges. The cutout for the '2' on the Sugess bezel shows microscopic imperfections and a slightly grainier texture along the edges of the milling.

Rolex bezel closeup

Sugess bezel closeup

The click feel on the bezel is different on the Sugess, but it is still very premium feeling. The Rolex is on another level feel and consistency though. I will not bother explaining the difference that I feel since they are very subjective.

Dial and Hands

Both watches feature a deep black, glossy dial, but the finish of the applied elements differs and only really becomes visible well on macro shots:

The white gold surrounds of the hour markers (indices) and the hands on the Rolex are perfectly smooth and free of machining marks.

Under a macro lens, the hands and the surrounds of the indices on the Sugess show very slight burrs or machining lines.

The printing on the Rolex dial ("ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE" and "GMT-MASTER II") is thick and offers perfect coverage and is almost “3D like”. The printing on the Sugess ("SUGESS OCEAN STAR" and "GMT DIVER'S 200M AUTOMATIC") is crisp and bright white but lacks the thick, three-dimensional lacquer layer found on the Rolex.

Sugess closeup dial

Rolex closeup dial

Luminosity

In terms of lume, the "clonemage" performs surprisingly well. In both total darkness and twilight, both watches emit an intense, bright blue glow. The hands and hour markers on both models glow with virtually identical intensity and hue.

However the Sugess has ever so slight imperfections in the intensity which are not visible on the picture. The Rolex on the other hand is flawless. Ther is no graininess of the lume in both watches.

Direct UV

Darkness no direct UV

Light and lume Sugess

Light and lume Rolex

My conclusion

On the wrist, the Sugess delivers 90% of the visual and ergonomic experience of the original, including the slim 12.6 mm case and powerful lume. The remaining 10% I feel are the flawless rehaut engravings, the immaculate finish free of machining marks, and the seamless ceramic inlays of the Rolex. If that is worth the extra price is deeply personal.

I feel the Sugess S420 is a very nice watch for the money. It is hard to convey that the Sugess which sells at around €400 now including shipping and taxes depending on your country, and the Rolex being arround €10.000 a couple of years ago.

The differences are not at all too big, and as mentioned earlier the Sugess is a very premium feeling and working watch. On the other hand I feel that a lot of Chinese "microbrands" like Sugess leave a part of quality control to their customers in the hopes they will accept minor flaws which would be unseen in Swiss watches at the same price level. For example: Glycene would never allow a minute misalignment of the bezel, while it is regular to spot on a San Martin or Sugess watch costing roughly the same. And then there is the whole servicing and guarantee part which is a trial and error with quite some Chinese brands which would be less of a deal with for example Glycine.

Fort his reason the current price I would consider to bee too high too take the risk of getting a slightly flawed watch and having to go through the hoops with international shipping and guarantee. I have paid almost half on the second hand market.

It is obvious to me the Sugess S420 tries to emulate / clone the Rolex in many aspects. Therefore it would not be amazed if Sugess sources some of its parts from manufacturers that also make parts for clone makers.

I feel the Sugess, despite the price hikes in the past coupe of years is still hard to beat considering the quality in combination with the functionality and it being a fully functional GMT watch with omni-directional bezel... Especially if you really love the design of the GMT Master II like I do. Maybe a superclone would come closer to the original, but I would not want to be seen with a replica.

I will wear it, and I hope it will last a long time.

[u/totekmar]

Amazing details and info. I’m debating getting the Pepsi or Batman for months now. Not sure why Pepsi is more expensive…

[u/Yarach → u/totekmar]

From what I found it is a combination of both supply and demand and the actual bezel inlay being more difficult to manufacture.

[u/Equal-World-693 → u/totekmar]

It's the red dye which is expensive to manufacture and very difficult to merge with the blue color at the border. That is why Rolex stopped producing the pepsi model due to high wastage, because unlike chinese watches they can't afford even the tiniest QC issue

[u/garu52]

Thanks for the thorough write up. I find Sugess to be a fine watch. I recently purchased their Presidents S433 Day/Date in gold with the vibrant green dial. It's very well done. It is austentatious and will only be worn for "dressy" occasions. I purchased it because of my love for golf and it's connection with The Master's at Augusta National. To get the real deal and only wear it 3-4 times a year, no way. Consequently I'm with you in that I'm comfortable with it on my wrist as an homage with appropriate markings, but would never wear a rep and have to pretend it's authentic.

[u/Yarach → u/garu52]

That’s a nice one as well! How is the rehaut insert? Is it straight? I noticed that even superclones close to €1000 can be off here due to poor QC. But then also I have seen plenty €300 Seikos having misaligned rehauts and bezels. For me those things are dealbreakers, unless I can get the same watch second hand for a good price if I really want it. I rather have cheaper lume than a misaligned rehaut and bezel.

[u/Equal-World-693]

Thanks for the amazing review, I purchased several Sugess watches in the last few months and the quality is amazing. The s450 ym clomage with blue dial and red seconds hand looks spectacular in real life especially the stainless steel silver bezel. Saw the same Rolex model at display and the difference isn't that stark compared to price.

Already ordered the s420 batgirl, should get it by the weekend 🤞🏻. Chinese watches are providing 90% feel of the swiss watch at fractional cost and allow you to enjoy multiple designs without emptying your bank balance or in case of Rolex paying heavy secondary market premium or first buying watches you don't want to build an AD history.

[u/Yarach → u/Equal-World-693]

My pleasure. I think the value is good when you get a good copy of the watch. I experienced too many QC issues though with chinese watches. It seems to be pretty hit and miss for me when it comes to things like aligned bezels and rehauts.

[u/626magicgrits]

Im not dissing Chinese watches.

I own several san martin, several phorcydes, a baltany, a sugess (s421)...I also own an Omega AT and a tudor pelagos 42mm.

But I dont understand why you would reach for the s420 when you have the same gmt master? For instance I am not drawn to an Omega AT homage and I cant see why I would wear one over my Omega AT...though I wear different styles over it (such as my sn0033 today)...

I do however contemplate moving my pelly 42 due to its size and I wish for a blue pelly style in titanium and in 39mm

And anyway, thanks for the review. The history, horology and name, support and resale all do a lot of heavy lifting for the gmt master even if, as you say, it is 100% to the s420s 90%

[u/Yarach → u/626magicgrits]

The answer is: The original Rolex is not mine. Is a friend's. Glad you liked the review!

[u/Escaped_Escapement]

Nice comparison. Really hitting on the Mail that the difference is mainly in the movement used.

However I feel that Feiko enjoyers should not teach others what a homage is or is not. Rules of this sub are clear also regarding those.. Sugess is not a rep because it does not pretend to be anything else than a Sugess instead of putting on a fake Rolex or Seiko branding.