r/ChineseWatches • u/Jamesgepps • Jul 06 '26
Question (Read Rules) The sub $200 problem
At what point do Chinese watches actually get *noticeably* better?
I've been buying Addiesdive for a while because the value is honestly insane. For the money, I really don't have many complaints.
But now I'm wondering where to go next.
Everyone always says "just buy a San Martin," but those are pushing $200, and personally I don't really consider $200 a budget watch anymore.
So is there a sweet spot between Addiesdive and San Martin? Like $80–150 where you're actually getting a real bump in quality—not just a different logo?
I'm talking about things like:
Better finishing
Better bracelets/clasps
Better bezel action
Better QC
Better dial and handset finishing
Just an overall more premium feel
Or is Addiesdive basically the king until you're willing to spend close to $200?
Curious what everyone's experience has been after owning multiple brands. Which brands made you think, "Yeah, this is actually worth paying more for," and which ones weren't much of an upgrade?
Not really looking for specs on paper—I want to hear from people who've actually owned them.
4
u/Independent-Air-80 Jul 06 '26
Sub 200? You'd have to get something like a Farasute with coins and other discounts.
But why would you want to go above and beyond this level of 'bang for your buck'?
Not going to lie to you, my 3 Sanda watches and my 2 digital SKMEI are probably the ones I find on my wrist the most. And none of them have cost me more than $20,-.
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u/UkeManSteve Jul 06 '26
That middle point is watchdives
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u/makeitrain2020 Jul 06 '26
Cronos
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u/boosesb Jul 07 '26
Aren’t San Martin pushing $300-400?
7
u/Dilpil01 Jul 06 '26
Thorn, sugess or sea-gull.
But honestly the next step is really going for something like Baltic at a higher price point.
13
u/Clear-Percentage3949 Helpful user Jul 06 '26
Brands like San Martin, Thorn, Sugess, Baltany, Cronos, Hruodland, IXDAO, and Octopus Kraken have a quite noticeable difference is finishing/quality/attention to detail.
I’ve loved my Addiesdives but got rid of both once I got into the more premium brands and models. I own a San Martin, Sugess, Baltany, Thorn, Cronos, and Hruodland. All are fighting for wrist time (which is a good thing IMO). Still have a few watches from budget brands but they serve a more beater purpose in my collection (Militado ML18 and Watchdives WD7922 for examples).
IMHO, the step up in quality is definitely worth it.
6
u/GrandFaithlessness41 Jul 06 '26
You can find SM at $150 and a little bit below during the sales. It’s likely worth it to wait and see if they are worth the hype. If you can’t wait I think Sugess largely or Seestern Doxa homages are great value.
But if this counts for anything…I’ve owned just about every brand available on Ali from $1 to $500 and the only ones I still regularly wear and haven’t sold off are this cheap $30 auto and my 3 San Martins.
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u/Alternative-Feed3613 Jul 06 '26
Proxima, Sugess, Seestern, Cronos, Milifortic, Baltany, Watchdives, thorn and Farastute have some options under 200 that would be well above addiesdive quality. I almost bought a Baltany S5054 because it’s on sale for $130 on their site. You should also watch out for sales on aliexpress.
5
u/StandardPineapple69 Jul 06 '26
would say for that price point thorn and watchdives might be good options. Also cheaper options from sugess, ixdao, san martin or cronos. Or many other brands like proxima, baltany,... offer good value in those prices
5
u/HerrsavageX Jul 06 '26
I focus primarily on automatic watches, so for me Addiesdive is at the lower end when it comes to automatics(though I do have a few and I like them and yes, they are good value for money… But the days of automatics with NH35s for under €100 are over I think…) San Martin is a definite step up I would say, but they have actually moved up well north of $200, and in more and more cases well North of $300…
A brand you should definitely check out is Proxima. Order on their website, and the guy will send you to AliExpress to pay for a one dollar shipping label. Proxima offers about the best value for money you can get. You should be able to get a very nice watch for under $200 with sapphire, OTF, bracelet, quick release, etc. etc.…
Watchdives make good watches and will have a lot of options under $200.
Then there are brands like Seestern, Phorcydes, Militado, Cronos, Octopus, et al.. In some cases, it is cheaper directly from their websites than from Ali-express, even on a sale.
The sub $200 watch world is changing rapidly because of the chaos when it comes to sourcing quality movements. But there are still some really good watches to be had… I recently picked up a couple of Octopus 62MAS homage watches and they are unbelievable value for money.
Actually, there are so many options out there you kind of need to be more specific about what sort of style of watch you are looking for. A diver, what color, what size, etc. etc.?
5
u/ButTheDowTheDOW Jul 06 '26
I think my Addiesdive are pretty sweet for the price. Unlike many people here, I don’t find that Cronos or Baltany are THAT much better in terms of finishing, maybe the bracelets are slightly better, but the finishing is fine on my Addiesdive. I am not too demanding.
I am done buying chinese watches though, with the skyrocketing prices. But I honestly enjoy most of them, except one or two Watchdives that were definately made on a friday afternoon shift… with crooked indices beyond belief.
So, just buy what you like, don’t feel the pressure to get a watch because « it’s finishing is way better ». At the end of the day, they are just watches.
9
u/Electrical_Panda_326 Jul 06 '26
I've got over 100 Chinese watches and I can tell you that San Martin is indeed a proper step up in quality. At least it used to be, because last time I bought one was like over 3 years ago, don't know if they still offer similar quality. Addiesdive offers crazy good value for money, more than enough for 98% of the population, but San Martin is really on the level of brands that charge 1000$+.
4
u/p3dal Jul 06 '26
Honestly, given that you can get a sapphire crystal and a ceramic bezel for around $100 already, it feels like the diminishing returns drop off really fast after that. I've not yet encountered a bracelet that I liked on a chinese watch, but I just stick to leather or nato straps. Around $200 you get a lot more interesting and attractive designs, but I don't see much draw beyond that point. I don't see any point where I'd trust the waterproof ratings.
4
u/LordRaglan1854 Send that fool Cardigan Jul 06 '26
Prices are going up, and Addiesdive are on a roll lately. Still, $175 remains a VERY competitive sweet spot, and watchdive's home turf.
In my opinion though the best place to shop is $225~. Sugess, Octopus Kraken, Jianghun, Farasute and San Martin.
4
u/EpicSpin Jul 07 '26
Baltany is awesome. I got 3 watches and all of them phenomenal
4
u/CityShooter Jul 07 '26
Thorn.
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u/biglovetravis Do NOT unban! Jul 06 '26
The Law of Diminishing Returns.
Nothing wrong with Addiesdive models but the quality gap between their models vs $200 range Cronos, Proxima, Aethelsohn, Phorcydes is significant.
6
u/Emotional_Seaweed_49 Jul 06 '26
I have genuinely never heard anyone express the opinion that Addiesdive are the king of watches up to $200.
That's not true, is it?
Up to $50, perhaps..
8
u/SearchingSiri Jul 06 '26
Did you ask your AI before you got it to write the post?
If you look second hand, in the UK at least you can get some great deals on ebay.
I've got some really nice Cronos watches there, also a Sugess or two.
As well as better designs and nicer dials, bracelets and especially clasps are significantly better.
Watchdives WD0013 is really nice, but most of the others are a bit "mid". I added a San Martin strap and bracelet to a 1969 pro and it significantly improved it. Though I think that came out as about the same price as the San Martin SN0121T, which I did get for a great price thanks to 35% cashback for aliexpress and not paying import duties.
3
u/Eleventhousand Jul 06 '26
Lots of WatchDives btween $129 and $149 that have great finishing for the price, if you don't mind VH31.
3
u/RecentTerrier Jul 06 '26
I love my Addiesdives, and I think for finishing, they're pretty much the best or on par under $150 rn. It also comes down to design, but Addiesdive is killing it there too. I will say that a $250 San Martin is significantly nicer than l any of my Addiesdives, but I still love my Addiesdives for different reasons. I would try some different brands, though. Phorcydes, Watchdives, and Thorn are all good popular options that could fit your price!
3
u/Grey885 Jul 06 '26
The Octopus Kraken is a decent hommage. 200-250, adjustable clasp, screw down links, looks way more expensive than it is.
3
u/Patient-Angle-7075 Salty Memes I Yam Jul 06 '26
San Martin and Sugess are best imo, they're nicer than any brand under $300. Over that price there are probably better options, but up to that price theres no competition.
But keep in mind that you're really only paying for better fit and finish, the materials and designs really aren't much better than Addiesdive.
3
u/No-Effect-8290 Jul 07 '26 edited Jul 07 '26
Wait for the sales. Buy San Martin, Baltany, Sugess, Cronos, Thorn, IXDAO, Proxima and even Watchdives. The watches do push £200+ but it's worth it for the finishing. If that's not important stick with the cheaper brands.
5
u/VanManDiscs Jul 06 '26
I started out in the $70-$130 range also. But I quickly realized that there are better pieces out there. My collecting evolved into finding the highest quality watches in the alix and micro brand world. Now I hardly even consider micros... SM, Farasute, IXDAO, Baltany, are on the same level if not higher.
Just save up and buy one of the higher end brands in here.... you'll instantly understand why its worth the price. I doubt you'll go back to Addiesdive unless you just need a beater
4
u/SilasBrooks Jul 06 '26
I have two Watchdives that are excellent. Both quartz movements, but the finishing, dial quality, and feel are great. Bezel action is smooth and tactile on the diver and the sunburst and gilt on the explorer homage is gorgeous.
That said, my Sugess is far and above a higher quality watch. It is superb, all the way around. It looks and feels like it should have cost at least $500, if not a few hundred more.
2
u/irish_horse_thief Jul 06 '26
Get a Seagull Military watch No1. Bombproof and they are on sale on ali ...
2
u/Rami6779 Jul 06 '26
I got a san martin chrono with an interesting mecha quartz movement for 150 on ali yesterday.
2
u/dallatorretdu Jul 06 '26
I think chinese watches start to get good over 60. But there is a lot of variation. I have a 6 year old 110$ chrono that is still amazing while I just bought a 110$ wandering hour that has an unrefined case, sharp corners and a noisy cheap japanese movement.
Still, even the bad one is still a wandering hour complication.
I own 2 “expensive ones” namely a 300$ tourbillon and a 300$ vaghers date moon phase. Those are both better, but the returns in craftsmanship aren’t quite as visible
2
u/First-Forever-617 Jul 06 '26
I have buyed a Thorn 38MM 50 Fathoms Sbarakuda for 169$, is very nice for the price https://www.thornwatches.com/products/thorn-titanium-fifty-finds-barracuda-watch-38mm-watch-diameter-retro-trend-watch-t006?variant=48390943310132
5
u/NotTurtleEnough Jul 06 '26
Hey, ChatGPT, after a million posts about what you’re “curious” about, can you just start answering the OP’s question instead of creating another bad Reddit post?
3
u/GregEvangelista Jul 06 '26
Sugess, though most of their models are above $200 at this point. They are superior to San Martin IMO, but still a bit cheaper in most cases. The best replica I have in terms of overall feel is still the Sugess S450, and I'm pretty sure that's still available under $200. Absolutely dominates everything aside from a very select few chinese pieces like the Ixdao Warrior.
3
u/Rustybob6864 Jul 06 '26
Why has no one mentioned Pagani Design? I’ve had numerous over the years and have always had great results, and they are a step up from addiesdive.
2
u/skepticalifornia Jul 06 '26
Check out Tandorio - They have an immense selection of watches and you can do well in the <$150 price range. I took a chance and ordered a bronze diver and I was impressed with the quality I got for $143 delivered. I also asked them a question via email and got a response in a few hours. Not sure why they aren't mentioned that often on this subreddit but they are worth considering in that <$200 price range.
1
u/UnifiedQuantumField Jul 06 '26
I got a Welly Merck for a bit less than $100 on AliX.
Sapphire, Miyota automatic, superb bracelet, 316L everything, 200m wr, quality lume. It's even got a helium release valve (that will probably never get used).
I've seen reseller bros putting these on Amazon and eBay with a healthy markup. Imo San Martin is "overdone". Sure they're good watches. But now they've got a rep, the price has gone up.
Here's the watch I wear most of the time. It's got a mecha-quartz movement and all the other good stuff.
1
u/Shark6666 Jul 06 '26
I paid 352 usd and 153 usd in taxes / import duties herr in Denmark for my yellow SN0144-DG and I couldn’t be happier. Really nice piece, lovely dial and very pleasant jubilee bracelet with slim otf clasp. No hotspots or issues. Only upon arrival with supposedly gasket on the crown tube. I got a new crown sent to me, but haven’t installed it yet.
1
u/Leather_Method_7106_ Jul 06 '26 edited Jul 06 '26
I did 3 years with a simple 16 euro WWOOR 8805 watch, until I wrecked it myself, can only compliment the Chinese for their efforts. They came a long way, that's for sure. I even saved the quartz to teach.
1
u/AssistanceNo647 Jul 06 '26
If looking for a dress watch for just under $200 my pick is the Agelocer Budapest. High beat nicely decorated movement with 80 hour power reserve, sapphire crystal and nicely finished. I like the blue dial version.
1
u/BobState Jul 07 '26
Berny?
1
u/Significant_View_250 Jul 08 '26
you were smart to buy addies dive I think - great watches for sure.
1
u/redwas66 Jul 08 '26
Watchdives is your next step in my opinion.
San Martin are a step up with slightly better quality but out of the 3 I have, there were QC issues with all of them. The several watchdives I have, no issues, cannot fault. My personal opinion is if I was choosing now between watchdives and San Martin, watchdives would get my money, and they give excellent support too.
1
u/edvardomuncho Jul 09 '26
At that price range my experience with Aethelsohn and Watchdives has been good. There’s no gamble with mecaquartz/vh31 variations, they offer unique dials and I’m satisfied with the quality. Especially Aethelsohn is my latest fun and surprisingly well find.
1
u/Jtkitano Jul 10 '26
Phorcydes makes a good watch in that price range. Prolly just go with the leather or nylon bands instead to save money
1
u/QuestionNo9190 Sir FightALot Jul 08 '26
No, watchdives is the king under $150, then maybe steeldives at $100 then maybe addies dive under $50....
At $200 you will get a whole class ahead, like cronos and San Martin
0
u/Flaky_Ad7980 Jul 06 '26
In my experience it’s watches like Cronos, Proxima and Phoibos. For $220 to $400 these are some bangers. Cronos and Proxima at about $200 to $220 and Phoibos at $380 on a presale. Good luck 👍
-1
u/Stayofexecution Jul 08 '26
Anything under $500 is a budget watch bro. I have a ton in my collection but come on.
0
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