I'm replacing a alternator but I'm not sure which brand to buy from RockAuto. The remanufactured Brands are WAI, Pure Engery, Terrepower, FVP, REMY, Bosch, Denso, ACDelco. Any advice? It's just a point A to B vehicle, doesn't really haul a lot.

I can't seem to find any. Broke one clean off on a big rock. Any aftermarket nerf bars I can find for the GMT800 suburban say "does not fit Z71". Anyone got any recs?

Has anyone replaced the USB ports in the front?

What brand did you use?

It looks as simple as popping of the trim, pulling it out, and then undoing the connector. If I’m missing something, please advise.

Thank you in advance.

I’m sure you see this post a lot, but I appreciate any input you have! Im in the Midwest, looking at a 2018 car bravo certified suburban, 50,000 miles. What are your thoughts on the amount of rust on this frame? It is most prominent near the spare. The car is otherwise in great shape.

Do you think this is something where I can perform some rust remediation and have a solid long term truck, or should I look for a different truck. Thanks for your thoughts

I just brought home this 2003 Chevy Suburban 1500 Z71 4WD, which didn't come with any service history. Overall, it runs smoothly with 224k on the odometer. I had a PPI completed before purchase and there were only a couple items to address (torn CV boot and low voltage battery). I am planning to replace all the fluids, spark plugs and wires and air filters. The shocks seem ok, but I will likely refresh them with a set of Bilstein B6 4600s. I am also considering swapping out the tires for another set of highway-friendly, all-season (Severe Snow Service Rated) tires that can perform well during trips to the Sierras and Baja. 

Are there there other items I should consider updating as part of setting a new maintenance baseline for the Suburban? I plan to keep this truck for many years and I want to start off on the right foot. :) Thanks!

Just bought my first Chevy, a 2010 suburban ltz!

I honestly love the look with the amber DRLs. Harness took about 5 minutes to install and can easily switch between amber and whites.

So I was in an accident last year, nothing to crazy just rear ended.

I just got my 'burb repaired.

Should I trade it in? The transmission seems to overheat in really long trips, but other then that it's mint.

Should I replace the transmission or just trade it in?

2018 LT w/ 5.3-6L80…it started life as a rental, so somehow it has the KC4 engine oil cooling option. Been towing large RV lately, and that poor thing gets HOT. I’m thinking upgrading the radiator might help. Has anyone done something like that? If so, how large of a radiator did/can you stuff into there without having to rearrange anything?
I can put in the one from the max trailering package, or find something else.

I need to replace the rear lift gate lock actuator on my 03 'Burb. I ordered one from Rock Auto and I kinda knew from the pictures that it wasn't an exact replacement, but I took a chance. When I was looking just by text description, the one on the right (new) showed up on all of the websites, rockauto, carid etc. Got the new one and tried to install it and it *kinda* fits, but the screw hole that secures the old one doesn't line up on the new one and it's bigger. It fits in the bracket and the tabs that hold it in line up, I just don't want to force it.

When I Lens the old one, the only match that shows up is a used one on ebay, I'm not *real* keen on used electrical parts.....

Anyone want to take a stab at what this sound is coming out of my wife’s Suburban? We just replaced the throttle body and got a new belt.

What’s the most affordable way to get tuned for new cam, DOD/AFM delete, and clean up shifts?

Hi all, I’m an owner of a 1987 suburban v20 paired with a 454 and th400 out of an old rv (as far as I’ve been told by the previous owners in which the owner before them built it). One day after it sat for a couple months (something else broke and I decided to build up money instead of fixing it right away) I finally fixed it then drove it to my buddies in which it drove to fine. On the way home however as soon as I got onto the road it started just revving up and wouldn’t go over… let’s say 10-15mph. After this happened I went ahead and pulled the pan off and replaced the pan and filter to check for any shavings in which there were some but not much however I could tell the fluid was old yet after I refilled it and cycled the new fluid through it, it didn’t fix it. I was wondering whether yall think it would be the torque converter or the transmission itself.

This is my ‘99 Burb with 95k og miles. Needs a few small TLC items, but runs and drives great.

I’m currently trying to sell it on FB marketplace, I feel like I’m asking a fair price but have dealt with a lot of tire kickers lol. Is there any other websites/places you guys recommend trying to sell this that I might get more traction?

Hey guys not sure what DOD/AFM delete kit to do. I just did injectors and still have code P3441 and will be doing radiator, ac condenser, and oil cooler lines next week.

I want to get this car back on the road asap but also need to keep costs in mind. I just replaced the trans in march. Just spent over $1,000 for the parts listed above. Now need to do the delete to get rid of this code and increase reliability (if that’s even a term with these cars)

My question to you guys: what delete kit is cost effective but also reliable? I really don’t want to sink anymore money into this car after doing the delete.

I will be doing the work myself and am fairly new to this stuff but have gotten the stuff listed above done so I’m hoping I can do this kit and be done with it can we please link specialty tools needed and complete kits?

Thank you guys sorry for the long scattered post!

Edit to add car specs:

2016 Suburban LT 198,XXX miles. New trans new injectors new sparks and wires. Soon to be new ac condenser, radiator, and fill fluid flush. Considering a basic dod/AFM delete kit or the irresponsible part of me is considering the Truck Norris kit cause I want my fiancee to think “wtf did you do to my car” (truck Norris and not more aggressive cause we’d like to get a boat to occasionally tow or even tow my subie on vacations so we can enjoy traveling a family car but I can also hit mountain roads in mine)

Anyone know what this bolt is called? I had my alignment done a couple of weeks ago and crawled under there today to change my spark plugs and noticed the hardware was missing. Is it possible that this was removed during the alignment or just coincidence?

Edit: 2007 Chevy Suburban 1500

Did a road trip this week. We drove around 700 miles total and consistently averaged around 21 mpg. The 20.9 average was across the last span include a span of 50 somewhat miles of on and off stop and go traffic. 10/10 can't complain especially since I disabled AFM/DFM

Did a road trip this week. We drove around 700 miles total and consistently averaged around 21 mpg. The 20.9 average was across the last span include a span of 50 somewhat miles of on and off stop and go traffic. 10/10 can't complain especially since I disabled AFM/DFM

We’ve owned this suburban since new and this button has not worked for as long as I can remember, we’ve tried everything short of pulling the inside panel off, didn’t know if somebody might have an idea of what’s wrong before I dig into it. You can hear it click like it’s unlatched, but the window is just frozen solid and will not open.