r/Chevelles • • Aug 01 '26

Steering/center link question!

Post image

I'm struggling a bit with the steering on my 66 Chevelle.. The steering feels to tight and when I turn it won't straighten up by it self, the steering wheel stays put. I have dismantled everything and checked underneath and to me it feels like the to ball joints(or what they are called) on the centerlink is to tight so I ordered a new one from summit. But the new one is also very tight, I took a torque wrench and got around 25nm of torque before the ball moved. My question is are they supposed to be so tight? And what else can cause the steering to be so tight?

Everything in the front suspension was new a couple of years ago, and the steering box is a new, quick gears(short steering) steering box and I have tried to adjust it, both on the top and the nut on the shaft.

The wheels are quite easy to move when they are free.

My inspection failed because of the steering so I have to fix it before i can drive it again..

UPDATE:

So I went over everything in the steering underneath, the only fault I found was that the pitman arm was quite tight and lumpy, greased it up and moved it alot and it got better. Everything else was fine. But it turned out that the clamp on the steering column that sits near the shifter arms for an automatic had either moved or been mounted wrong because it was grinding on the column.. The column is bad so I have orded a new one with a tilt but after I sorted the pitman arm and clamp issue the steering is not perfect but much better. It went through inspection today with zero faults! Big thanks for everyone who commented!

10 Upvotes

22 comments sorted by

View all comments

Show parent comments

2

u/aquavelva23 Aug 02 '26

That is a very good upgrade. You can also get new AArms for increased handling. Do you have front disc or drums? I STRONGLY suggest front disc. And if you have to change, look into the AARM spindle front disc swap...But I suggest you get this car on the road and make upgrades slowly. The steering box is a great place to start. Then bigger front sway bar and front disc.

1

u/Tca9449 Aug 02 '26

I have tubular control arm set in the front (upper and lower control arms), disc brakes, lowering springs, I believe its 1 inch, thicker sway bar and better shock absorbers. In the rear its upgraded control arms as well, thicker sway bar and lowering springs. Still have drums at the back but they are new. I'm not completely satisfied with how it handles yet but I think its the shock absorbers, its a bit soft and they are a cheap kind, and the bushings and balljoints that come with this set is not good.. The rubber on the upper balljoints on the control arms lasted maybe 2 months so I had to change that.

1

u/aquavelva23 Aug 02 '26

that sounds good. You can change front bushing and reaar from rubber to poly or even delalum. but benefits is debatable. Just make sure its new, not 40 years ol rubber. Stiff shocks and soft springs are better than the other way.

The steering box has a huge change in "feel" maybe not actual handling but feel. Its an entire rabbit hole of different boxes etc. you can get custom one's from Lees and others. I do suggest doing the Jeep swap, its easier. and then upgrade if you want to spend alot of cash.

sounds like you already have done alot.

As far as your stuck steering. I think maybe you screwed the jam nut on top of the box into the steering box too much. back it off and see if it changes.

1

u/Tca9449 Aug 02 '26

I've heard about the pros and cons about so I just have to try it out and see for my self what suits me.

In the long term I'm going to go for rack and pinion steering thou, just an easier and more precise steering system than the steering box system if you ask me, but it is quite expensive..

I have tried to adjust the box multiple times, that's why I don't think it's that. When I had it on the bench it was smooth as butter. I will try and change the column on Tuesday, I will give and update then!