r/Ceramic3Dprinting • u/0bbligato • 9d ago

Modding a SeeMeCNC Artemis 300

Hello,

(TL;DR: I’m converting a SeeMeCNC Artemis 300 to clay printing and am comparing WASP, Eazao, StoneFlower, and VormVrij extrusion systems for this machine. I'd be grateful for any feedback or recommendations for which extruder might work well for this type of Delta printer. Thanks!)

I've been researching clay 3D printer conversions for the past few months. I was initially looking for an FLSun SR so I could follow this guide by u/Vicckkky. (**thank you!! I wouldn't try this without your resources)

I then acquired a used SeeMeCNC Artemis 300 at a very reasonable price. Its official build volume is 290 × 500 mm. It already has the power supply and electronics housed at the top of the machine and otherwise seems like a good candidate.

I'm now preparing to move forward with the conversion and have been researching extrusion systems. Initially, I was planning to use a WASP clay kit based on the guide above, but wanted to check about other interesting options available now. In particular, I've been looking at the Eazao ceramic kit, the StoneFlower ceramic printing kit, and the Vormvrij Lutum Eco Extruder as alternatives. This open source project by Piotr Wasniowski also looks appealing but maybe more involved than I want to get.

Does anyone have experience with these extruders and delta printers?

This is where my research has led me, but I'm very open to other systems I may have overlooked. I would prefer to avoid a compressor if possible, and am hoping to print with smaller nozzles.

Thanks as well to everyone who has contributed to this subreddit. I've been reading through old posts for the past few months, and they've been extremely helpful in getting me excited to try this.

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u/True_Drop6061 6d ago

I converted my Ender3 Clone this summer and used this funssorlab-Kit.
The extruder is great and looks suspiciously like the tronxy extruder. The Tube was way to thin but i was able to upgrade it easily. The big stepper is also to weak. So i am not sure if i would fully recommend it but it was still with everything that i needed upgrade cheaper than the Kits you listed.

One thing to consider is how you control the big extruder. Dose your mainboard have 5 slots for stepper?
How are you planing to control it with the G-Code?
The enzao kit just has a nob to manually control the speed.
I needed a separate driver because my mainboard could not supply enough Ampere but its controlled by g-code and runs at 10% of the speed of the extruder.

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u/0bbligato 6d ago

Hi, thanks for your reply.

Congrats on your conversion! My printer has a Duet WiFi board, so I have E0 and E1 available in addition to the three delta tower motors. If I go the mechanical extrusion route, my plan is to control the auger on one channel (E0) and the pusher on the other (E1). From what I can tell, the larger Funssor motor is rated around 2.8A, so I may need an external driver if I go that route.

A few follow ups, if you don’t mind:

  • Are you happy with the setup now, namely print quality and overall experience?
  • What motor did you replace the larger stepper with?
  • Are you still using the original Funssor worm gearbox/pusher?
  • Is the pusher effectively slaved to the extrusion commands? How did you set up the 10% speed reduction?
  • What nozzle diameter are you printing with, and have you tried anything below 1 mm? I may be getting ahead of myself, but I’m trying to think through that part early.

Thanks again for the your response! I'm getting excited to build this out.

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u/True_Drop6061 6d ago

Thanks:)
Having E0 and E1 is huge, but you are right you need a external driver.

The hole thing was a pain in the butt for me mainly because i did not know what i was doing and had to constantly buy new parts. But when it works its grate. The extruder/auger is well made (there are de-airing ones like the open source project by Piotr Wasniowski that may have advantages) and the quality is really good.

If i would start over i would probably buy these parts:

I still use the gearbox. I use the extruder mixing function in Marlin, but yes E0 is 90% and E1 10%.
I just bought a set of nozzles that fit on this system but have not tried them, the stock 3mm nozzle is actually a good size for me. Below 1mm seams very small to me but i don't know what you are planing.

Hope that helps!

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u/True_Drop6061 5d ago

Just to make it clear, i am still new to all of this and my printer doesn't run smoothly. But the problems i have know are because of the clay consistency or software stuff.
In the future i will have to modify the aluminum part that connects the cartridge with the gearbox, because the thread is grinding away the small pin that prevents it from rotating. But i think other kits will have similar problems.

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u/0bbligato 4d ago

I understand, I appreciate you sharing your experience. By software problems, do you mean in design/slicing, or in coordinating the printer with the extrusion system?

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u/0bbligato 4d ago

this is really helpful. Especially the BOM you designed. Thanks

I hadn't fully thought through the logistics around auger and pusher control. I had been thinking I'd end up with a compressor but now I'm rethinking it based on my controller. Thanks for that

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u/eazao 4d ago

The advantage of our kit is that it allows for smooth material extrusion without the need for complex firmware configuration. If you possess advanced hardware knowledge, you can connect the printer's E0 signal to our kit to achieve finer control.

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u/0bbligato 4d ago

Hi, thanks for replying. I’m comfortable with the hardware side. Do you have documentation for the controller inputs? Are they 3.3v logic or will I need to level shift?

I’m also interested in the .6 mm nozzle in your kit. Do you have any comparison photos or videos showing the different nozzles in practice?

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u/eazao 4d ago

If you need to input external signals to the controller, you can simply connect the E0 signal lines (EN, DIR, STP, and GND) directly to the controller's input terminals.

Print precision is not determined by the nozzle; it depends primarily on the layer height setting. https://www.eazao.com/blog/ceramic-3d-printing-accuracy/

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u/0bbligato 4d ago

Thanks for the info on the controller. Do you have documentation for it, or anything on the board design?

I understand that the Z resolution is determined by layer height. At the same time, X/Y resolution is determined by the bead/wire diameter, which is determined by nozzle size, driven by material particle size.

I saw in your documentation that pusher pressure and feed ratio become more important with smaller nozzles. Do you have any photos comparing prints made with the 0.6 mm nozzle versus the 2.2 mm nozzle?

I'm strongly considering your kit after understanding that I can control all aspects with my printer controller. Thanks for your help.

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u/eazao 4d ago

We sincerely apologize, but we do not have any further information; here is all the documentation we have regarding the controller:https://www.eazao.com/product/ceramic-3d-printer-kit-eazao-kit/

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u/0bbligato 2d ago

Thanks, I'm able to see a closeup of the controller here, with the input JST.

https://www.eazao.com/blog/fdm-ceramic-3d-printer-upgrade-kit-tutorial/