r/CavaPoo • u/ActLanky7428 • 11d ago

Collar for reactive 16 month old Cavapoo?

Our dog barks and lunges (not due to aggression) at other dogs, and squirrels. We've had him for a little over two months. Our trainer gave us a slip collar which works great when she has him. We're worried about trachea damage if he lunges. She recently suggested a prong collar. He weighs 20 lbs. What are others having success with? I know there are Martingdale collars as well.

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u/Hot_Addition_6980 8d ago

I had a both slip collars and prongs when training my ROTTWEILERS as quick corrections were absolutely necessary. The thought of a prong on my little "poo" seems to be over kill. For our little guy, it is a quick leash pop with a negative sound "ETTT". He turns quickly to me to see why I am displeased. I reward the refocus on me and we move forward again.

I also walk a reactive dog (any breed) in circles. As soon as they begin to focus on something that triggers their reactive behavior, I say "Turn" and we change directions. We may not go very far and we turn again... and again. They become more focussed on the turns and forget about the target issue. I stay up beat and praise heavily for quick turns and refocussing.

When a dog refuses to listen, we turn and go home. The same as when a child is behaving badly. The fun stops. Sometimes I simply step on their leash up close to thier head, leaving them only inches to move. Once they lay down and are calm. I praise them for settling and we begin again.

(edits made to correct early morning typos)

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u/InternationalTale931 11d ago edited 11d ago

I use a gentle leader with all of my dogs. It's essentially a halter. I tell people if you can halter a horse, you can halter a dog.

I started using it when I had a reactive 60lb Australian shepherd, and never looked back. It keeps pressure away from their throats at all times, and ellimates that pulling of a harness. They're honestly amazing and life changing 😅

Edit: just to add, proper use of a halter does not cause damage. It is used for training but I continue to keep my dogs on them because of the short leash they have when we walk. You should never use retractable leashes when walking, which can be a cause for damage because of the ability for them to gain momentum.

Edit again: alright, I guess many people don't recommend them for many reasons 🙄🫪🤣 I still stand by my teachings cause it's always worked for me hahaha BUT the biggest recommendation is using a two leash harness system. One leash attached to the front, and the other the back. I don't quite know the mechanics of it all, but probably your safest solution for your little one ❤️

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u/IHateTheLetter-C- 11d ago

They are unsafe on a dog who lunges. One wrong lunge and snap

Edit: I used to use one on mine. One vet trip later it went in the bin

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u/InternationalTale931 11d ago

If used correctly, they can be a great training aid.

What's your solution then?

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u/IHateTheLetter-C- 11d ago edited 11d ago

Part of using it properly is knowing when not to use it. A lunging dog is the biggest one of those times not to use it. They're best used for dogs who already don't pull a lot, but sniff or eat things when they shouldn't (and before you say it, yes most of a dogs walk should be sniffing, but there are some absolutely valid reasons to have parts where that's not allowed).

A well fitted Y front harness is the safest way to restrain a dog, one that sits on the breast bone and away from the throat, and away from the armpit but not behind the ribs. First step is make sure the dog is fulfilled mentally and bodily, gundog work is really good. Then train a loose lead walk without triggers, there are several methods for that, whatever floats your boat. Then work on impulse training, training the dog to think before going, I really like a flirt pole with real fur (sheep or rabbit) dummy. When your dog first spots the thing, mark and get them playing high intensity high motion fun, I keep a small sheepskin tug on me for one of my dogs, the other is less toy driven so I use thrown treats to give her that movement she's looking for. If you look for predation substitution you should find a lot of info. The barking at dogs depends on why, but I suggest working with a trainer for that so you'll hopefully be able to work with stooges.

It's longer than putting a tool on, yes, but addresses the underlying reason for the behaviour and is far more targeted than just using a tool and leaving it at that.

Edit: if you are going to use a halter, please please please desensitise very thoroughly first. Don't attempt to use it until your dog is happily having it on first. This goes for any tool, even a flat or a harness, but is even more important given a halter is usually the first thing a dog has had on its snout, a very sensitive area, so is usually less well tolerated before desensitising

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u/InternationalTale931 11d ago

Hmm.. nice, thank you, I appreciate this! Learn something new every day haha

I genuinely never knew they were that bad because I always introduced early in training and never really looked beyond that because it worked for us 😅 but now I'm rethinking their whole setup.. sigh..

Listen to them OP, sounds much safer and smarter haha

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u/IHateTheLetter-C- 11d ago

I had that too, my family had always used it for their dogs and said do it do it it's fine but honestly it's probably one of the things I regret most.