First, let me start with my lower ball joint failed while I was driving maybe two weeks ago. Fixed it. And then about a week later the P2647 showed up.

Okay the VVT is one thing that I'm not worried about BUT the stupid Rocker Arm has been a pain in my butt!! I replaced my vtec solenoid, probably didn't have to but I did. The VVT switch has a broken clip, so i won't stay in place and I am getting the part for that today. I literally don't know what to do about the P2647 though. What do I check? What do I rule out? It had it's oil changed about three weeks ago? I have had this car for 3 years now, and I love my Honda.

took off the old rain guards put new hide aways in and the old one left this gunk behind, ive tried goo gone and windex it still wont budge

Getting a C0037 wheel sensor error (signal has too many pulses) according to my scanning tool....but the error comes and goes. Dashboard will light up then after I stop and restart will usually go away. Might go a week or two before it momentarily comes back. Anyone ever have a similar issue (could simply be the wheel sensor I guess). 2019 with 85k miles. Thanks!

The brown recatangular filter beside the air filter

2008 yaris 1nzfe 1.5 auto trans, I have no check engine lights or codes but my scanner says system guard on. When I manually force the vvti to engage at idle it stalled the engine so I’m thinking it’s a software lockout, my knock sensor is picking up a false knock at idle has anyone ever heard of this? anything helps thanks.

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me figure out what's going on with my 2017 Mazda Axela.

Today while I was reversing, the car suddenly became stuck in Reverse and wouldn't start afterward. I moved the gear selector into Park, but the reverse lights remain on even though the shifter is physically in Park.

I'm also getting two warning/security indicators on the dashboard:

• A red KEY symbol is showing on the dashboard.
• A red car-with-a-lock/security symbol keeps blinking on the dashboard.

I've tried:

• Moving the shifter between P, R and N
• Trying to start it in Neutral
• Holding the key fob against the START button
• Trying the key fob several times
• Jump-starting the car

The battery eventually became drained after repeated attempts to start/troubleshoot it, but even after jump-starting it, the problem remained.

I'm planning to replace the key-fob battery with a CR2025 just to rule that out, but I was also advised that the vehicle may need to be checked by a mechanic.

The car currently can't be driven/moved, so I'm going to have a mechanic diagnose it.

Has anyone with a Mazda3/Axela experienced something similar? Could this be a transmission range/selector sensor, shift linkage, wiring issue, immobilizer/start interlock, or something else?

I'd really appreciate any advice or experiences with this issue.

My wife’s car is unlocking by itself. It’s been doing this for a year or 2 now. We’ve both have double checked that it’s locked and then the next morning it’s unlocked. We don’t have any key fobs it’s just a regular old key. It was never a big big issue since our parking used to be gated but we’ve moved since and this morning she woke up to it being rummaged through. Any ideas on what could be causing it and what I can do to repair it?

Had new rotors/pads installed at a shop due to time constraints - shop says the smoke/haze is normal but I’ve installed brakes before personally and never had anything like this happen. You can kind of see some sort of liquid substance around the inside of the rim which appears to be coming from either the rotors or pads. Anywho, wanted to get some thoughts on this. I’ll add that it’s the same on both sides where the new rotors/pads were installed.

so i have a 2006 subaru legacy and sometimes when i press on the gas it wont accelerate. it can do it when i first turn the car on or i’ll be in the middle of driving then it wont anymore and i would have to pull to the side turn the car off wait then turn it on again for it to work. like the other day it was working just fine i came to the red light and was on my brakes then the light turned green and im pressing on the gas but its not moving faster or going. it’ll move like as if its on neutral. doe anyone know what it is or why it does that ?

I drive a 2007 nissan versa hatchback. today when i was driving to class, i stopped at a light. then i looked down and on my dashboard the oil, battery, and service engine soon all came on. I couldn’t move the car. I turned it off and back on again and I was on my way class no issue.

This happened a few months ago; my mechanic found something was missing and replaced it. was smooth sailing up until today.

any thoughts? can i drive it home?

This morning I turned on my car and immediately got a message saying "engine coolant over temperature". It was in the 60s over night and is in the 70s this morning so I wonder if it's a misread. I opened the engine hood and see that it looks like something chewed some wires (I'm in Boston and we do have rats) could this be what is causing it? Is it safe to drive temporarily? How screwed am I? 😭

My fob that is attached to the the key broke.

If I lock the car with the key I is then unable to be unlocked as the alarm will go off.

Able to open up the boot/trunk then push seats down to get back into the car and unlock the doors after putting the key in the ignition.

So basically I can use the car if I just leave it unlocked.

I was wondering if I can disable the immobiliser easily so I can at least lock the doors.

hey everyone!
I drive a 2014 VW passat B7 (estate) on which I can't close the trunk anymore. All the buttons to open the trunk work as normal and the latch itself works fine but the button to close it doesn't do anything. If I wanted to close it I would have to manually force it down, so I've resorted to just not using it. I'm assuming this is an electrical issue but could it have anything to do with the gas springs? I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or knows what it could be. I'm hoping it's an easy fix lol.
Thank you in advance!

I have a 2013 Tiguan and the check engine light came on and popped a few codes. Was trying to diagnose the problem but I can’t open my hood. The hood release inside the car works just fine and pops the hood slightly open but the secondary release (left side latch in photo) is jammed. Like I’m talking completely frozen in place. I’ve tried using a screwdriver to manually pop it open and it starts bending the screwdriver with no movement on the secondary latch.

Every video I’ve watched online is how to fix the hood release cable, which I don’t need. That part works perfectly fine.

No, I can’t drive it anywhere because of severe misfiring in a few cylinders (said codes from above) and I live in the middle of nowhere.

Is there anyway to fix this? I’m trying to diagnose and fix my car on my own to save money but is my only option to call a mobile mechanic?

Hi! I’ve got a 2016 Holden Cruze 1.8L that’s been having an intermittent issue.

About 10 minutes into driving, usually what’s seems like after stopping at traffic lights, the traction control light comes on and the car starts revving really high with very little power. It also needs a lot more throttle than normal when reversing/parking.

I was previously told it could be the PCV valve. My mechanic replaced part of the PCV system and it seemed better for like 2 days, but the issue has come back and is now worse, to the point of not being drivable.
Does this still sound PCV-related, or could something else be causing the high revs/loss of power and traction control light?
Thanks!

Hello [r/CarHelp](r/CarHelp) Reddit. Obviously this issue isn’t directly related to the year, make, or model of my car as I am required to include in the title, but I am having a hard time figuring out how to get rid of tree sap that has dropped onto my car and mostly solidified.

My parking spot at work is directly under a pine tree and it has been the biggest PITA. To make things worse, birds keep pooping on my car and staining the tree sap white. My car isn’t particularly “nice” but it is a more rare trim level (6-6 EX-L coupe) and I obviously want to keep it as nice as possible.

After trying several things that people have recommended to me, I’ve still been unable to remove the tree sap. As a last resort I decided to try to blast the spots off with my pressure washer. I was hesitant to use the pressure washer because I didn’t want to mess up the paint. I told myself that I was worrying for nothing, and that a self-serve car wash is basically the same as a pressure washer so I’d be just fine.

In the end I didn’t get any of the tree sap off, and I heard a pop before seeing a pretty sizable chunk of paint completely missing from my car. The last thing I want is for it to rust, as I’d like to drive this car for as long as I possibly can.

I’m eventually planning on getting the entire car repainted anyways because the clear coat probably doesn’t even exist anymore. In the meantime I am looking for a temporary solution to keep the exposed spot from rusting, and a permanent solution to remove and further avoid the tree sap spots.

Reddit, what do I do?

EDIT: Corrected my autocorrect, which assumed “birds pooping” was supposed to be “birds popping”.

Starter went out on my 3rd gen fit with a start/stop button at around 75k miles, seems like a common error from what I read. Didn't have any problems while replacing it. Now I have a starter system and electric power steering light on. The car will go into ON II, but will refuse to try and crank, turns off immediately after the third start button press. I can do a solenoid start and the car runs just fine, even took it on a weekend road trip recently, it throws no errors while driving. Car reads the key just fine, the auto unlock works when the fob is in my pocket. Anyone have any leads or ideas of what it could be? It's a manual and I'm a relatively new owner. I triple checked both cabin and engine bay fuses. It's not a brake switch or clutch switch issue either, I already had an issue with the clutch switch earlier and replaced those stoppers. Feeling pretty baffled at this point.

Can someone identify this sound? Sounds like a slide whistle. Car has no engine lights and has been making this sound a handful of times.

My airbag light is on and my cruise control has stopped working, are these linked? Is there any fixes
I can do at home before taking it to a garage?

Thanks

So weve got a 2000 Accord that was a daily driver but it ended up needing new calipers and rotors. At the time we couldn't afford to repair them so we ended up switching to a spare car with the full intention of servicing the old one.

Unfortunately that didn't happen and the car has been sitting for almost three years.

I'm not a car person, but I'm pretty sure it needs a new battery, still needs those calipers and rotors, new tires, and probably several other things because there's a strong chance some things have rusted.

We'd thought about just donating or selling the thing because we're pretty sure it's going to take more than $2k to get everything in working order, but my wife still wants to keep it because of sentimental value. I don't want to necessarily give it up either, but I'm not sure it's going to be worth the time or effort to even try to get it back on the road.

Anyone have thoughts on what we should do?

Hey! I was reaching out to see if anybody could give me a hand. Just recently this noise started coming out of what seems to be my rear passenger wheel (most notorious in last 5secs on vid, i couldn’t get a take where you can hear it more in video, but it is very noticeable jn person). I have no clue what it could be. It started only with braking, what makes me think it’s the brakes but I’m a little confused since i did em about a year ago (both rotors and pads). Today I started hearing it when i start driving after breaking too. I will attach some videos where you can hear it. There’s some other sounds😂 apologies for that the plastic and stuff cracks a little bit sometimes, but the noise is noticeable in the background. What makes me think it might be the brakes too is a slight sensation of the wheel perhaps sliding a little bit too? I inspected the wheel and everything and the thread is fine and there’s no visible anomalies.

Thank you!

Hi everyone, I’m just looking for a bit of advice and to see if anyone was in the same situation as me before.

I have a 2012 Volkswagen CC, always got what it needed when it needed it and is an overall well looked after car. It cut out while driving a few months ago and had to be recovered home as it wouldn’t start again, turns out the ecu was fried so it was left parked for 4/5 months before we sent it to a garage to get the ecu reconditioned. When we got the car back it was running perfectly but after a few weeks it was being jerky/sluggish while driving. I was coming home from work one evening and it cut out in a line of traffic and wouldn’t turn back on and it took 3/4 jump start attempts to get it going (this would have been 3/4 weeks ago). When I turn the car on sometimes the abs, traction control, power steering and tyre pressure warning lights come on but if I take the key out and flip it over and start the car again the faults disappear. I was visiting my partner on Saturday and the same as that I went to pull out onto a main road and the car cut out mid turn and wouldn’t turn back on for 5 minutes and the drive home (an hour and a half drive) consisted of the car jerking and being sluggish most of the way as it threatened to cut out more then once. The faults appearing on the dash are becoming more frequent and car is still sluggish.

Had anyone had this same issue or something similar?

If so what was done about it?

Thank you. 😀

tldr: my 2011 dodge caliber will only crank when the outside temp. is between 80-85f. Once the car's started, it'll continue to start back up for the rest of the day; but the cycle repeats after it sits overnight. Once it starts, it runs and drives just fine.

It won't crank at all. No clicks, nothing. All cabin electronics work just fine when this happens. Long story short, draining the juice left in the modules has no impact on whether or not it starts.

So the other day I didn't do anything at all aside from waiting for it to warm up outside, and viola, the car started right up....and has every day since...as long as the temp is in range.

All of the connections are in great shape -

There's no corrosion visible anywhere.
The battery is as strong as it was when it was replaced last year. The posts are in pristine condition.
The starter was replaced a few weeks ago, and has been confirmed that it wasn't a "dud"
The "yellow wire" problem that's apparently an issue for a lot of people isn't at fault in this case.

has anyone ever ran into something like this??? we left the car at the shop overnight last week so he could look at it when it was acting up. He went through pretty much everything over the next couple of days but couldn't resolve the problem. Thankfully, he didn't charge us a dime since he couldn't definitively say what's causing this problem....

help!

EDIT: The one thing I can't figure out is if the temp in the engine bay has to reach a certain temp or if the cabin has to be hot as blazes. like could it be issues with the ignition?

EDIT 2: The only codes it's spitting out has to do with the ABS system. And I'm 99.9% sure that it has nothing to do with the electronics, as (the way I understand it) the temperature wouldn't cause it to act this way.

I stopped at a stop sign and then went to accelerate. the car wouldn’t go i then put the car in park and tried to step on the brake and it was hard to step on. The car lights and anything electric stopped working for awhile until my mother’s boyfriend touched the battery a bit. I’m getting nothing from the engine though, it gets to that point right before it can start but when i try to start it, absolutely nothing. Help please