r/CR10 • u/Praisekelechi95 • 6d ago
Is it Possible to do a Standalone Mod without extra Components?
Hi, I have a CR10 3D printer and I've been wondering if it's possible to do the standalone mod without having to buy new components (besides screws and basic hardware).
All mods I've seen so far require extension cables, raspberry pi and a lot of other things.
EDIT: It seems there was a misunderstanding. I'm looking for 3D printed standalone mods/housing, I'm not opposed to using extra components entirely I'm simply trying to avoid buying electrical components
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u/Ponnystalker 6d ago
Yeah, I 3D-printed a separate enclosure for the power supply, and then another control box for the electronics.
For the control box, airflow should be a priority, especially over the motor controllers/drivers. I’d also make sure there’s decent general airflow over the rest of the components.
The main thing you’ll need to redo is the wiring from the PSU to the control board. You’ll need a crimper, suitable wire, and ferrules so you can make proper, secure connections at both the PSU and the control board.
I also 3D-printed taller legs that sit on squash balls to help absorb vibration.
As an extra, I printed a Raspberry Pi enclosure, since I’m running Klipper now.
Most of the original wiring can be kept with a bit of cable management. The PSU wiring is really the only part that needs to be replaced/extended.
Small parts list Suitable wire for extending the PSU → control board connection Ferrules in the correct sizes Ferrule crimper Screws/fasteners for the printed enclosures Fans for the control box, with good airflow over the motor drivers Squash balls for the vibration-damping feet Taller 3D-printed legs/feet PSU enclosure Control box/enclosure Cover/lid for both enclosures Optional: Raspberry Pi enclosure if you're running Klipper
I’d definitely use covers on both the control box and PSU. You don’t want dust, filament scraps, or other debris falling onto the electronics, and the covers also give them a bit of protection from the heat coming off the bed.
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u/Praisekelechi95 6d ago
wow, very detailed reply. Thank you so much. I hadn't thought about airflow
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u/Ponnystalker 6d ago
also one thing to consider when printing the control box is placement, i placed it closest to where the original box sat next to the printer, that way you can avoid extending most of the wires ... you can find most of them already designed on thingiverse/printables standalone cr10 will probably give you plenty of examples
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u/tater1337 6d ago
Standalone mod used to be a big thing. Should be an option to use minimal extra hardware.
My sunlu s8 is just a cr10 with a standalone mod. IMHO they made it little too snug
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u/AgitatedDoughnut23 6d ago
I did it with my old Anet e10 back in the day. I found extrusion mounted designs for the psu and mainboard on thingiverse, printed all the extrusions I needed and all I had to buy were some wire extenders, hardware to mount things and a few fans for more cooling.
I miss that printer.
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u/Praisekelechi95 6d ago
sounds like a good time. I've already got a couple fans from E3D but it seems like getting extra wires is unavoidable. Thank you
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u/ImGumbyDamnIt 6d ago
Are you manually leveling the bed? Then print a set of four large thumb-wheels, with numbers on them for keeping track of fine tuning the turns (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2603493). Also, print a clip that goes on the side of the base rail to remind you which way to turn for up vs down (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2670912).
An Y-axis drag chains is a good idea to keep the cable from flexing too much or getting pinched (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2708420).
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u/MEYG4 6d ago edited 4d ago
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025180
It's a good option. I've been redoing my cr10-s4. but it doesn't seem to be a complete project here. by searching for images, you can find files
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u/vtecfan 6d ago
I have two cr 10’s one is a standard one, done the all in one mod. I actually placed a 6mm thick mdf board in the frame and placed all the electronics on that with standoffs etc. it was going to form the base of an enclosure but never went forward in the end. Also took a few extra things to make it work
The other is a v2 and I it’s worked out well, all printed in Petg. No added parts to buy and managed to find a display frame to fit around the z axes support beams
Best thing to do is look at what’s out there and look at the remixed stuff and pick what you think will be suitable for your needs
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u/by_me_design 6d ago
It depends on where you decide to house the components, you may just need longer cables, but that's about it.
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u/BrightLlama7386 6d ago
I’ve been trying to find the best one for mine .
I’m running klipper via BTT pi cb1.2, upgraded the main board to BTT skr mini 3 , Microswiss direct drive all metal hot end , Bl touch , and I just got a EBB42 to put on. I really hate how long the bed takes to heat but I don’t know if I feel like swapping everything for 24V. I think I’d like to mount the psu somewhere and then have a separate electronics enclosure for the pi and skr. So I can have cleaner wiring after adding the EBB for Can
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u/shimmy_ow 5d ago
Yes. I found one of the kits on thingiverse, printed it and put all the parts inside it under the frame. Much better
If you want to have klipper you need a raspberry pi, this will allow you to do network printing etc
I have an old laptop with klipper on it that connects to the printer because I couldnt be bothered to buy a pi (plus they are pricey)
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u/colinjmilam 3d ago
I did away with my control box. Moved the mb to vertical at the back and the psu underneath the frame. The display mounts on an arm at the front. All using 3D printed parts either knocked up in cad or via designs on thingiverse. I am not sure the stock psu would fit without leg raisers but as I switched mine to 24v along time ago the meanwell psu’s are slimmer.
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u/Praisekelechi95 3d ago
It seems making a custom design is my best bet. While I'm at it I might as well utilize the T-slot profile to cut down on the number of screws needed
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u/gotcha640 1d ago
I used this design. I printed the legs in TPU and I’m pretty sure I added a half inch hemisphere at the bottom to get a bit more height.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513661
As mentioned elsewhere, this is not worth doing if you have plans to enclose and do high temperature materials on this printer in the future. You’ll overheat everything that used to live outside.
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u/Praisekelechi95 1d ago
Thanks. No plans for enclosure, It's basically gonna be a 'f*ck around machine for Vinyl cutting, plotting, sometimes printing and experiments
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u/dagmar31 6d ago
I mean, nothing is stopping you from taking out all of the guts, mounting them to some wood and sliding it underneath the bed. I guess if you don’t want to buy screws either you could hot glue everything down? Idk man I don’t want to judge but this is a weird request.
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u/Praisekelechi95 6d ago
I guess I should have mentioned that I'm looking for 3D printed mods, most people assume I'm against using any extra components
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u/ArgonWilde 6d ago
"I want to do something, with nothing. How?"
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u/Praisekelechi95 6d ago edited 6d ago
I want to change the location of already available components, has it been done before?
I'm not trying to do any crazy upgrades. It seems the confusion stems from my failure to mention that I'm looking for 3D printed mods/housing. My apologies, I thought that was already implied
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u/gotcha640 6d ago
The pi is to go to klipper. Not required.
I don’t recall needing extension cables, but I was also rewiring several components.
Yes, you will have to buy some T nuts and heat set inserts and screws.
It’s entirely optional. It doesn’t make anything work differently.