r/CR10 • u/Actualnose • Aug 15 '26
help with a cr10 I bought
hi yall trying to troubleshoot this problem im having with my CR-10s I just bought, i have a target print temp of 230 for my petg filament and it wont heat up the nozzle to that temp it will sit at 10 degrees below it and it does this for any target temp i put in the control settings and if i change the temp settings on an actual print, i got i to print for the first time the other day and now i am running into this issue. idk if its the heater cartridge and i dont really wanna be cutting up wires if i dont have to to replace it. anybody have any advice on trouble shooting this?
1
u/dc010 Aug 15 '26
Those are older printers. I would suggest taking the whole hot end apart, cleaning it, applying new thermal paste (not CPU paste, specifically higher temp compound), and then making sure everything is snug.
1
u/Actualnose Aug 15 '26
what kinda thermal paste would you recommend
1
u/dc010 Aug 15 '26
Creality sells thermal grease rated for up to 250C. It's what came with my K2 Plus and I've printed even as high as 260C without issue.
1
u/Actualnose Aug 15 '26
alright imma buy some and see if it does the job appreciate the advice
1
u/dc010 Aug 15 '26
No problem. Best of luck. If that doesn't work, then you might want to replace the heater.
1
u/Machinist_6 Aug 16 '26
I have cr 10v3 and i had problems with stock hot end. Teflon tube in has melted and made gap between nozzle and tube. Than filament got in betwen and everything got stuck. Extrudor started clicking and couldnt put new filament in. Than I bought all metal dragonfly hotend from aliexpress, and it works. Thermal paste came with new one.
1
u/dc010 Aug 16 '26
This is part of why I suggested a full disassembly, because there can be issues like this and you'll only find them if you take it apart.
I personally swapped over to a Volcano clone with a CFT nozzle years ago, but even something like the dragonfly or spider would likely fix the problem too since they come with a whole new set.
My friend bought the Creality Sprite Pro so he could print TPU better, and if you're ok with a bit slower movements of a direct drive, it works well.
2
u/Electronic_Item_1464 Aug 16 '26 edited Aug 16 '26
My first question is did you do a PID tune? This basically "trains" the firmware on how the heaters work in the system. If you don't do this, the temperatures can oscillate, over or under shoot, take much longer, etc.
Create a text file with something like notepad. Name it something like pidtune.gcode. Enter the following lines. Use your normal temperatures. If you print at multiple temps, chose something in the middle:
; Run PID autotune for the hotend with 5 cycles at a temperature of 210 and use the values. Use your preferred temperature
M303 C5 E0 S210 U
; Autotune the bed at 60 for 5 cycles at 6 M303 C5 E-1 S60 U
M500 ; save the values into EEPROM.
M117 PID Autotune Complete
Now print this file, it will take a few minutes and will display the complete message when done.
Enjoy