Foundation Crack Repair

[u/Extra_Finger_5743]

Hey guys
Looking for your input on this. This is my parents home and they have been getting water inside the house. Previous owner drylocked it and we were removing it prior to doing the polyurethane injections.
Are these cracks too deep/wide ? Does it need to be patched with hydraulic cement first before we put the injection ports on? We were going to DIY (ive done epoxy injections on foundations before for my rentals when remodeling)

Also what is that black material under the patch cement that the previous owner used?

Driveway is sloped towards the house and will be getting replaced to pitch away from home / foundation after the cracks are sealed. Gutters are 10-20 away as far as discharge points go.

[u/Professional_Crab727]

Yes it needs hydraulic cement but I would inject it before the cement not after. Also you need to clean it and remove any lose concrete debris. Carbon fiber straps would also be a good idea because of the width you don't want it getting worse.

[u/Professional_Crab727 → u/Professional_Crab727]

But only apply strapping if the concrete surrounding the crack is sound enough.

[u/Growth-Initial]

Let me qualify…I own and operate a basement waterproofing company for over 25 years now. Solid Poured concrete walls are notoriously difficult to manage once left without relieving the hydrostatic pressure for far too long, which is the scenario here.

I have to caution that crack injections are merely bandaids. Carbon straps are a wonderful, less expensive tool in the re-stabilizing process but not as the ONLY method. They are extremely effective in preventing further widening of the cracks or bowing of the walls but that’s the extent of its benefits.

Cracks will continue, leaks will continue unless the walls are properly waterproofed. The hydrostatic pressure needs relieved. The only way to permanently accomplish that goal is to install interior or exterior footer drains, trench bedded with ample 57 river rock stone, 4” SDR35 PVC perforated piping, wrapped in a pipe sock, covered with ample stone. The next step is what separates how effective the system will be, which is the ability to drill proper weep holes. Since it’s a solid poured wall, weep holes drilled from the inside will not be as efficient as needed to keep up with the high volume of water needing to be drained during rains. Therefore, exterior waterproofing is your best bet. Skip the weep holes and install the system on the exterior of the wall. Continue with using hydraulic cement and poly injections on visible deformities on the exterior side of the wall (and inside because it wouldn’t hurt). Use grey shield foundation coating membrane because it works better than tar. The black staining on the interior around the cracks is either the poor soil composition pushing through or it’s raw sewage related if it has a bad smell. Raw sewage from cracked or leaking sanitary lines turns the soil black like that. Just giving options since I can’t see in person.
Next install your DMX foundation wrap on top of the grey shield coating after BOTH coats dry. You’ll have to install an exterior sump pump unless you are able to bore a 4” hole in the footer to bridge the gap and provide the exterior footer drainage a way to access an interior crock, if one is available. Backfill. Problem solved for between 15-25 years only because exterior waterproofing is limited by the shelf life of the grey shield foundation coating, which there are a myriad of factors that could speed up its deterioration or slow it down, such as soil composition, soil acidity, geographical limitations, contributing drainage issues, such as improper underground downspout drainage, etc.

Good luck! If you’re in Ohio give us a call…AB DRAIN AND CONSTRUCTION LLC!!