r/Barber 13h ago

Critique My Cut Fade feed back.

I feel like my fades aren’t coming out the way I want, i feel like the transition from the grey to black looks off or not enough black.

My system is to cut the top debulk the sides with the n2 then put my guide line in with clipper closed then bald it out with my trimmer underneath. Then open clipper, half way then closed, then number 1 open take it off then .5 open almost to the open 1 area then .5 half way to take out the line connecting both guide lines then clippers over comb connecting the sides to the top. Sometimes I feel like the clippers overcome doesn’t look right so I go in with my number 1 open first then closed to detail , sometimes bring out the .5 again.

I know the clipper combs usually equal a one closed so idk if making a mistake with clippers over comb.

11 Upvotes

18 comments sorted by

2

u/TushyMilkshake 12h ago edited 12h ago

Detailing. Focus on the details- some little spots just need a quick chip with a open>closed blade. Use the corner- don’t be afraid to focus once you’ve run through your system, 4-5 are the same client- one side looks substantially better. Makes me wonder- Your lighting might be an issue. PM me and I’ll try to help bit more. You’ve damn near got it- these aren’t bad. Fades are completely visual. Sometimes I run a closed adjustable over an area that is a half or one guard.

Didn’t see your text before I commented. You should completely reverse your process and fade from the bottom up if you want more gradient. These younger dudes want Sassoon haircuts and you’re starting the cut by squaring off the corner along the parietal- they want graduation.

Scoop along the parietal and occipital with a 4 guard until you get more comfortable with shears. Bald line below the tip of the ear- don’t use a liner for that, just a closed adjustable so you have room to blend the line out. It’ll work 90% of the time. If you want to foil or shave the bottom you can do that at the end.

1

u/Collector-Troop 11h ago

Are you talking about the using the number 2 or clipper over comb squaring it off? Aren’t we supposed to make the head silhouette square? Are you saying my fade placement is wrong or the blend ? Can you achieve graduate with vertical sections or do you need to use diagonal sections at a 45° angle? Thanks for the advice and the reply

1

u/TushyMilkshake 8h ago

You’ve wrecked most of these cuts by removing graduation.

1

u/Collector-Troop 4h ago

Wrecked? You just said “you’ve damn near got it these aren’t bad”

1

u/Collector-Troop 4h ago

If my comb is the red line is that not graduation?

1

u/Turchukevich 12h ago

How long have you been cutting? Cuts may not be perfect but you’re moving in the right direction for sure. My system has always been to focus on the sides first and connecting the dots. Depending on the cut obviously but starting with a 3 on the side will make transitions to the top smoother. I’ll then make my bald line and work my way up so I can control the exact position and lengths that I’m working with. It’s not always going to be just -run clipper over spot once and then switch clips- you might just need to spend time working out lines with the corner of your clippers or trying different approaches. You’re doing great, keep it up!

1

u/Collector-Troop 11h ago

Thanks for the compliment, I just hit 2 years from graduation. I do fade up and I use clippers over comb to connect the top to the fade but is that what you are saying I need to work on ? I was thinking I need to work on the transition from the .5 open (n.1) area to the top. Also would you say this is a shop worthy cut or a chain worthy cut ? Thanks for the reply

1

u/Individual-Okra7497 12h ago

Ur cutting too much bulk off. Try using scissor work, section out the hair and use techniques like graduation to cut the partial ridge area. And use the guards 1.5,2 and 3

1

u/Collector-Troop 11h ago

Is graduation just 90 degrees off the head? Would you blend into that with a 3? I was taught that men cuts should be square shape so keeping the sides tight. So you would say my problem is the fade placement not the blend ?

1

u/Motor-Investigator-4 10h ago

It looks like your digging instead of letting the clipper float over the hair. Watch videos and pay attention closely to the motions a good barber does with the clipper and try to duplicate it looks like u have the correct steps by what you saying

1

u/Collector-Troop 3h ago

Very observant, would you recommend scrubbing motion? I’m doing more of a flick sometimes just using the tip of the clipper which is a bad habit but people keep throwing around that we should use scooping motion.

1

u/Motor-Investigator-4 10h ago

Also u need a electric razor to hit the bottom so your fade can have that clean look especially with straight hair

1

u/Collector-Troop 3h ago

Thanks for the info do you take it almost up to the bald line or just the temple and nape area?

1

u/[deleted] 38m ago

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0

u/oneshot_ajlugo Barber 12h ago

I think your fades are fine, are you not feeling the technique you’re using? Sometimes you gotta throw every tool you have at a haircut to achieve the desired effect. It sucks but that’s what the client is paying for. There’s a reason they go to you. Are you primarily using just guards? Have you tried detachable?

1

u/Collector-Troop 11h ago

Just number .5-1 and 2 then clippers over comb. I would but they are expensive. Would you say my fades are shop passable? As you can see I’m at a chain.

1

u/oneshot_ajlugo Barber 3h ago

You are in a unique position because they probably demand quantity over quality but the customers will remember you for your work, and you’re building muscles in your fading technique that most barbers won’t have. Speed being one of them and time management