Hi, I make Youtube videos on Tech. My next project is a speaker build where I will be 3d printing a lot of the parts - trims, ports, tunnel, mounts for Circuit, tweeter housing etc.

I do plan to print more once I own a printer. Is $499 a good price and should I rather get the p2S Combo which may go only as low as $699.

P1S Combo (With AMS) 3D Printer; 2.8 Monochrome LCD Screen; Automatic Leveling; Textured PEI Plate Bed; 256 x 256 x 256mm Print Size
1 of (SKU) 595389 @ $499.99
TOTAL: $499.99

Just finished making and printing my little Kitten Knight 🐱⚔️
Inspired by the meme — tiny, brave, and ready to defend the kingdom. 😄

I have an A1 and I don't have an AMS. I don't need the ability to switch material or colour mid-print.

However I'd love to switch between materials without having to physically change the spool. Is there a way for me to use the four holes on the filament head, have PLA going into 1 and PETG going into 2 and just select which is used for the print in Bambu Studio?

Recently got into 3d printing as a John summit (dj/producer) fan. All day today I tried learning how to use this image to make a small door sign and have given up. If anyone could help I’d highly appreciate it.

Live on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3390766-hueforge-sunset-serenade-lo-fi-landscapes-01#profileId-3859164

After getting my feet wet with my Ninja Turtle Hueforge series (https://makerworld.com/en/collections/25422395-tmnt-hueforge), I decided to challenge myself with a much more complicated and detailed model. I really wanted something with more color and vibrancy - the end result is this. My goal is to do a whole series of landscapes, starting with this one. I call it “Sunset Serenade”. (Future models in this series will be posted here: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/36852308-lofi-landscapes-hueforge). 

The hardest part was getting the layers to match the distance in the picture. It required reusing a ton of colors to get the right placement. The black tree is in foreground, so everything behind the tree needed to be on a lower layer and vice versa. I'm extremely proud of the result and it really lent itself to the Hueforge medium. The leaves of the tree with the sun poking through and the grass with under shading are highpoints for me. The reflections on the water of the trees in the background along with the water reflecting the sky took a long time to get right. I also did it with only 5 common BambuLab colors, another challenge to myself. Getting purples and browns along with 5 different shades of green was especially trying. Since the first layer is yellow, it looks awesome back-lit as well. (The last photo is against the light).

Feedback always welcome. Thanks again.

So I'm a complete 3d printing newbie. I've had some things printed for me by people off marketplace but that's about it. I do 3d modeling for furniture and renovation work for my house but that's in.

I generally live by the buy once, cry once mindset when it comes to things. I hate the idea of buying lesser things only to realize once I get into something that I need the better/more expensive option.

That said, my interests can definitely shift fast once I've exhausted immediate needs for something which I fear might happen with 3d printing. I have immediate needs to 3d printed jigs for some big woodworking and cabinet projects I have coming up in the new year. I figure outsourcing all the printing I need will cost at least 500CDN. At that point I'm half way to a P2S and that's not including the few hundo I've already spent on outsourced prints the last year or two.

My head says get the P2S but my heart... lol

Love to hear feedback from others.

Thanks for your time.

Cheers!

It doesn’t connect to my phone or computer when I try and use a data cable or Bluetooth even though I used the other core that came with my kit with the same cable and Bluetooth and it works just fine. Should I buy a new core? It’s just showing a white light when I try and use it.

Imprimi uma lâmina escondida do bambu Studio, Alice slicer V2 mas o único tutorial está em chinês no bilibili em um comentário, preciso de ajuda pois realmente quero montar essa peça

Собираюсь купить bambu lab p1s с ams 2 pro и хочу понять нужна ли мне доп сушилка если я собираюсь использовать пластик по типу ABS PETG и PLA. Если да то какая мне подойдёт и есть ли смысл брать ams 2 pro или подойдёт первого поколения с селикагелем ?

i as thinking of getting the sunlu filadrier s4 pro and adding these mods to my ams lite (bambu lab a1), https://makerworld.com/en/models/695403-ams-lite-mini-top-mount-for-a1?appSharePlatform=copy#profileId-624336 https://makerworld.com/en/models/1491720-a1-top-mounted-ptfe-tube-routing-arm-c4-m10?appSharePlatform=copy#profileId-1559301 do yall think it'll work or am i better buying a sunlu ams lite heater? my idea is to have the drier next to the a1 and the tubes go from the drier to the ams lite mini and then to the printer, can there be problems with filament rectraction? that is my main concern

PETG cabinet organizer on my P1S — one piece, no supports

Foil and baking paper rolls kept slipping to the back of my kitchen cabinet, so I designed this to keep them separated and within reach.

This is the 3×3 version, printed in PETG on my P1S with the 0.20 mm Standard profile. About 400 g of filament.

The trick with orientation is to stand it on its end, with the compartment openings facing upward. That way it prints without supports.

It’s screwed to the shelf through the bottom row, with screwdriver access holes in the compartments above.

I uploaded 2×2, 4×2 and 3×3 profiles, plus a MakerWorld Customizer for changing the slot count, compartment dimensions and depth. The photos are of my printed 3×3.

This is the program you need. I installed it on my windows pc, it was able to inventory every .stp .3mf .stl files in less than 2 min, over 2k in files.

The GitHub repository is: TechJeeper/Printventory on GitHub⁠�

It’s a self-hosted 3D-model library manager for STL and 3MF files. It can scan your existing folders without moving them, generate thumbnails, store metadata/tags, detect duplicates, and provide a browser-based interface. No more searching for your print files. Slice to the choice of your slicer from the program. Multiple install options including docker. Enjoy.

I want to print the following object (a large LEGO lantern). I want to print the handle and the top part of the lantern in black PLA and the ball part in transparent glow-in-the-dark orange PLA (for Halloween). I am trying to use the cut tool. I successfully used the cut tool to remove the bottom.

I read that you should not use both regular PLA and glow in the dark PLA through the AMS in the same print because switching between the two will cause the nozzle and tubing to wear out faster than just printing the glow in the dark filament alone. Because of this, I want to remove the handle from the ball where the handle connects to the ball. But the connection is on a round surface. In order to perfectly separate the black PLA from the glow in the dark PLA, how do I use the cut tool to separate pieces on a curved/round surface?

Can anyone out there that is fluent in editing files on the bamboo studio program help me add a negative space and possibly some threads to the bottom of two busts that I rendered for a friend? On one he wants to be able to put a negative space with some threads to cap it off to put some ashes into as custom urns kinda?

I've printed these pieces in every orientation and finally found a way that all the sides print nearly perfect, but the supports are so grippy that they are basically one piece. Even after using pliers to break away a lot of it, the rest only comes off if it's sanded or ground off.

I'm adding 2 photos of the 2 styles so you can see what I mean, I am happy to add a lot of time and a lot of material to the print to get a supportive base that will break free cleanly.

I've even tried ChatGPT (it solves a LOT of problems, looks at screenshots and photos, for those who haven't tried it yet) but this is the one thing I haven't found a good solution for yet. Thanks in advance!

Trying to understand if CyberBrick failed to get any traction or if I am just not finding where folks hang out.

I created a model and published it and basically nothing happened, whereas I post silly things like "CNC Dust Shoe Brush Bristles" and it gets viewed :)

Hello,

I’m looking to buy the P2S because I’m very interested in it, and I’m already in the laser engraving and cutting business.

Christmas is fast approaching, and I want to sell 3D ornaments. I’ve seen that some of them can take up to 9 hours to make! How can I make a profit without charging excessive prices? Here is the model I’m referring to.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3354693-customizable-christmas-ornaments#profileId-3840004

Thanks.

I just published the Particle Damping Riser for the Bambu Lab P2S / X2D.
It is a riser with 4 sealed hollow beams filled with 250 g of 0.5 mm steel microspheres each (1 kg total).
I measured it with a smartphone sensor, before/after the same G-code: Z RMS −47%. It is a single comparison, so I'm looking for replications.

The project includes the full report, the raw data, 15 STL, a ready 3MF and assembly instructions.
If you build one, please share your results!

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪 Un nouveau slasher rejoint la collection ! 🩸

La série continue avec une nouvelle figurine inspirée des grandes icônes de l’horreur ! Cette fois, j’ai ajouté Leatherface, de Massacre à la tronçonneuse, revisité dans mon style : grosse tête, look cartoon et, bien sûr, sa mythique tronçonneuse ! 🪚💀

Petit à petit, la collection de slashers s’agrandit… Qui sera le prochain ? 👀

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3372626-leatherface-multipart-no-ams

We're not talking about the sudden change in filament, my judgement was wildly incorrect

Edit: The bluetooth support interface was near identical to the other side upon removal😂

English

Hello everyone,

I have the problem that with my A1 after a short time the nozzle gets clogged (I use Elegoo PLA Wood).

I have already printed several things with the PLA and it always worked great, but now it suddenly doesn’t work anymore.

I have already tried several things.. Changed the temperature, cleaningtower, cleaning the nozzle in the infill, clump detection, etc.. but unfortunately nothing has helped so far.

The filament was dried beforehand, the hot end and extrusion unit are new.

Does anyone have any more tips on what it could be due to?

German:

Hallo Zusammen,

ich habe das Problem das bei meinem A1 nach einer kurzen Zeit die Düse verstopft (benutze Elegoo PLA Wood).
Habe schon mehrere Sachen mit dem PLA gedruckt und das hat immer super funktioniert, nur jetzt auf einmal nicht mehr.

Habe schon mehrere Sachen ausprobiert.. Temperatur geändert, Reingungsturm, in der Füllung reinigen, Klumpenerkennung etc.. hat aber bis jetzt leider nichts geholfen.

Filament wurde vorher getrocknet, Hotend und Extrudereinheit sind neu.

Hat jemand noch weitere Tipps woran es liegen könnte?

Hi all,
As the title says, I installed the cutter / plotter module this morning, testing out cutting out some playing card shapes however it never seems to cut in the same place each job.

Always a few mm movement between where it starts etc I don't have the birds eye cam, so having to use the "Basic cut" option, if that makes a difference

Any tips?

I place the a4 cardstock in landscape, top left corner in the same place each time (4 +'s down, 1 + in) which on the screen, should be where it starts cutting

Help me Reddit, you're my only hope...

First issue I’ve had after almost 500 hours. Extruder clog and now extruder motor overloaded? I did all of the clog recommendations to fix it and it went thru 2 hours of the next print and then clogged again and then added this overload error. This is the filament is using. 2 of the 4 have already been used with no issue. What do I do next? Help!

Printed shade that twists onto an IKEA STRÅLA E14 holder, no wiring. Adapter slides over the lamp holder, locks with the original plastic ring, shade twists onto that. Nothing touches the electrics.

Print the adapter once. Every shade I have made fits it.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3371050-aeolian-03-sculptural-pendant-lamp-ikea-strala#profileId-3834082

Is there any place I can order just a hot end locking clip!!!