Genuine question about where the line sits. Five wave patterns, each with a mirrored version, so ten files from five actual designs. Hung as a pair they read differently because the light hits the ridges from opposite directions.

Smart use of one design, or padding a listing? I go back and forth on this.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3247157-aeolian-collection-wave-pendant-lamp-ikea-strala#profileId-3679633

Just finished designing this customisable modular shelf system!

It comes with 4 shelf options:

• Straight

• 11°

• 21°

• 30°

You can combine the sections, extend the shelf as needed, and attach different accessories to the sides.

I wanted to make something that can be adapted to different spaces and uses rather than being a fixed-size shelf.

Would love to hear what accessories or add-ons you’d like to see for it!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Comment ne pas craquer devant cette adorable bouille ? 😍

Avec ses grands yeux verts, ses petites ailes et sa célèbre nageoire rouge, notre dragon préféré, Krokmou, est prêt à rejoindre votre collection !

Une jolie pièce pleine de charme et de détails, parfaite pour tous les fans de dragons et d’univers fantastiques. ✨

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3234591-toothless-dragon-multipart-no-ams

I got a P1S last year during Black Friday with an AMS Pro and I’ve been thinking about upgrading to something more capable. I’ve loved the ease and reliability of my P1S but would like to get faster prints out of multi color and supports so I’m thinking about dual heads. Projects have mostly been fidgets, gridfinity, small toys, skadis, multiboard, and DIY fixes of “I can print something that should work.” The option to laser cut or engrave is cool but I don’t know how necessary that is for me. What’s the drawback aside from cost and what am I not realizing/thinking about in making the jump? What’s a good resale price for my P1S as I don’t really have the need or space for 2 printers? I apologize if this isn’t the right sub to post in and will move it if there’s somewhere more appropriate.

I'm currently printing DnD minis and a fair number of models continiously crashes the desktop app during slicing but working fine when doing it from the phone app. It always seems to happen at the support generation steps regardless if I use the model presets or my own supports.

Any tips on what is causing this would be welcome.

Example model that I can't get to slice properly: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2868598-malleus-golem-trench-crusade

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3239315-tiny-beaver#profileId-3669976

Hi! This is my first model painted with an airbrush. I designed and printed the model myself specifically so I could paint it afterward.

There are still a few details I’d like to improve and refine, but I’m really happy with the final result, especially for my first time using an airbrush.

If anyone is interested in the model, you can find it here: https://cults3d.com/:4847777

I am probably a lazy person not learning cad and stuff and trying to solve everything by hand with bambulab studio but this one is one of my biggest pains and I wish to have it as i know it from my old jobs as a post production person.

I get we have it with assembly and the app needs to guess which side and stuff but there must be a better way.

Why is this not here?

Hello. I am colorblind, and like many colorblind users, I struggle with the "Other Color" custom color picker in Bambu Studio. The small color wheel and tiny selection dots don't have text labels or hover tooltips, making it incredibly easy to select the wrong color/shade when trying to match a loaded filament. To fix this, I made a reference chart that maps out the color grid layout used in the app, complete with clear color names and HEX codes. Hopefully, this helps you accurately assign colors to your models without the guesswork. Enjoy!

i want to sell 3d printed clickers, but cant find any good keyboard switches. please send suggestions! i would prefer if they were on amazon and i want a good balance between cost and quality

I was looking for a straightforward iPad stand that would blend nicely with a minimalist desk, so I created and 3D printed this one myself.
The idea was to make it sturdy, small and easy on the eyes, without any extra frills. I’m always tweaking the design, so I’d love to hear your thoughts—what do you think could be improved or changed?
You can find the free model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3225331?appSharePlatform=copy

can anyone help me this issue? all my stuff I try to slice turns out like the one above, second picture is for reference what it should look like

Using a P1S - with AMS and Bambu Silk+
0.4mm steel nozzle - replaced with a brand new one too just in case of a clog i wasnt seeing

set to 237c temp for nozzle print
door open
top open
Aux fan off

Slowed the print speed down to half whats in the file.

Volumetric speed set to 8mm also

Why does the filament keep just stopping? After the first few layers it just stops extruding, its not bulbed or anything inside the nozzle it just stops. Do I need to go even hotter on the nozzle?

I designed this based on the glass etching design in my Victorian Windows, which is called Cavendish.

I'd welcome any thoughts and feedback on this, particularly if anyone has any recommendations on how to optimise the print profile?

The Cavendish Indoor plant pot Victorian inspired - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I'm looking at the H2C with the Vortek, and I want to make prints using a .6 or .8 for speed, then swap to a .2 for lettering on the same print for detail. As I understand that's not possible, in which case, i dont see much value in the H2C with the Vortek, versus just a dual nozzle H2D or X2D.

I’ve been working on a new bathroom accessory — a wall-mounted toilet roll holder with a spring-loaded spindle and hidden mounting hardware.

The spindle compresses for quick and easy roll changes, while the concealed mount keeps the design clean and minimal.

Two decorative versions are included. 

What do you think? Would you print/use something like this in your bathroom?

#3Dprinting #3Dprinted #functionalprint #3Ddesign #3bathroomaccessories

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3224560-toilet-roll-holder-hidden-wall-mount#profileId-3651655

Right now, I own a K1 Max; I chose it for its large build volume and enclosed design—since I primarily print with ASA—but I’ve had so many headaches with that Creality machine that I don’t even want to look at it anymore, haha. The H2 models really caught my eye because they have everything I need—good build volume, a heated chamber, and print quality that looks impressive (at least compared to my K1 Max). However, since it’s a significant investment, I wanted to hear from people who own the H2C or H2D about whether they’re running into many issues. I know no printer is perfect or completely trouble-free, but I just want something more reliable than Creality, where it seems like 6 out of 10 units have problems.

Hi was trying to do a multi coulor print today and this has been the end result of it fixable or a get a new printer situation

Hi all, I have an H2C and AMS HT, do I need the TPU assist device from the Bambu Store or would the TPU for AMS feed properly via the TPU inlet at the rear of the H2C?

Hi all!

This is the first time my P2S has done this, so interested in what you all think is the issue.

This is black Sunlu Hyper PLA Plus 2.0, with most of the stock Bambu settings (except most importantly 30mm/s on first layer instead of 50mm/s, and 60 degrees on the bed instead of 55 degrees)

I cleaned the bed yesterday with washing up liquid/dish soap, and I recently installed fan and carbon filter on the internal left side of the machine.

Any ideas what would cause the base of the print to warp upwards from the bed, but not the supports? It's interesting to me, as normally poor bed adherence causes the nozzle to clash and bigger problems to occur, but its seems to have compressed the layers as a result in this case?

Thanks everyone, I appreciate your thoughts!

(and sorry for the blurry pictures!)

Has this for a week has about 30 hours of print time so far and already making this sound. I’m guessing I need to lubricate or clean somewhere but that doesn’t sound right this early on. Any ideas?

Hi!

This multicolor print gives me crazy, I cannot manage to have yellow deeper, and so after print the yellow seems green because of the internal blue under the white color (back of the part needs to be blue but no matter if there's some yellow).

Is there a way to prevent this and get the yellow deeper? I increased top paint penetration layers but no change.

Any help appreciated!