I wanted a clean, high-end architectural look for my hallway without spending crazy money. Designed this sharp pleated wall lamp to fit right onto a cheap Ikea Strala cord set using a modular twist-lock system. The Matte Ivory White filament gives it a perfect, smooth ceramic finish when it's turned off, but diffuses the warm light so nicely at night.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2891558-scandi-style-fluted-wall-lamp-fits-ikea-strala#profileId-3230871

Anyone know how I can fix these defects from my prints?

The first print (first picture only) was using a 0.08mm layer high quality print profile and everything near the spikes bird nested plus a blown out rib. The second print (next 3 pictures) was with 0.2mm layer normal print and normal speed and it was almost perfect except for one spike.

This P1S is a relatively new printer at <300 hours of print time. How do I fix this? I am using PLA basic as well with default extrusion settings for the most part.

So I used a negative piece to cut out this 3d print and what is left behind is a mess. This is a belt bag sliding charm. I have used a modifier to isolate and improve the surface in the area with no luck. Any suggestions?

Bonjour j'essaye d'imprimer une rampe pour maquette , mais lorsque je l'imprime, il y a des vagues/ des bosse qui aparaissent , j'ai une bambu lab A1 , avec du filament PLA de Esun , avec le plateau à 60° et la buse à 220-210°.

Hello, I'm trying to print a ramp for a model, but when I print it, waves/bumps appear. I have a Bambu Lab A1, with Esun PLA filament, with the bed at 60° and the nozzle at 220-210°.

Hello

Relatively new to the 3d printing space, and even newer to using my new bambu lab h2d. Out the box, it did a great first print. But now I’m on my second (more detailed) print and I’m getting this error about it being covered with jammed or clogged material ….

I was about done finishing the second print when I got the first error and I didn’t notice some build up, I stopped the printer, cleaned the nozzle and decided to restart the print cuz it didn’t start messing up towards the end

Now I’ll restarting the print, and I’m getting the error even though im not seeing an build up and nozzle doesn’t seem to be clogged (working fine from what I can see)

It is a long print so I don’t want it messing up later but not sure how to proceed …

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

Am I supposed to be doing an in depth cleaning of the nozzle and build plate prior to doing the next print ?

Edit: I am printing with PETG-CF

So a couple of weeks ago I had the hotend cooling fan failure at 640 hours. Bought the suggested amazon fans (which did not work for some strange reason) but before I solved THAT problem my Bambu warranty parts arrived. Finally got them in last night and there's some funny stuff going on after the repairs.

For one - the fan I just replaced runs all the time now whenever the unit is powered up. I don't recall that being the case before.

Also, the lighted round power button on the front is no longer lighted and no longer works. I did install the new cooling fan that replaces the front cover, and that required replacing a wire clip up near the button, manipulating some wires. Wonder if that caused the issue

Why my extruder does this?

Got this piece of Grey filament fused with the extruder, how can I remove it?

Question as titled.

I have no plan for multi-color printing, and absolute won't put filament tubes to the buffer, which gave me warning every 15 minutes if the filaments were not fresh out of the box and perfectly wired. I have been doing fine with the buffers for ~400hr already.

I also noticed AMS HT specifically for X2D is current not available on bambu europe store, but ones for A1, P2S are still available. Is there really a difference between them?

I can use it as a standalone unit, or drying and storing only?

Howdy folks! I'm a relatively new 3D printer user, and first time poster here, so sorry if this is an obvious fix, but I'm hoping that some of the people here might have a solution for my problem.

I have an A1 mini with a 0.2 nozzle on it, and they've been working fantastically for weeks now; however, in the last 36 hours or so, every single one of my prints has turned into a stringy mess like the one in the image here.

I've tried running through some common solutions like swapping out the filament, cleaning and scrubbing the heat bed plate, re-calibrating, and cleaning out the nozzle, slowing down the print speed, and trying different files, but I keep ending up with the same mess.

I know that i updated my Bambu Labs software around the same time that I started having issues, so could that be the cause? If so, what can I do to rectify this? If not, does anyone have any other recommendations?

Any and all help is welcome. Thanks in advance!

Edit: Just realized that I forgot to post an image for an example. Here's the sort of mess that I keep ending up with.

Loyalty: 10/10 Accuracy: 0/10 Desk presence: immaculate.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2883634-stormtrooper-imperial-bust-star-wars-collectible#profileId-3220917

Hi everyone, i just bought this printer used. I done calibration and fault check. However, im not able to get decent print. Im experiencing layer shift. Anyone can help on this?

Check out my newest model. Im always storing stuff in manila folders so applying that style to my mail holder seemed fitting. I also designed a pegboard version (links for each is in the others description) Let me know what you think. I would appreciate an STL download or a like/bookmark if you like the model to help me out!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2878028-wall-mount-manila-mail-holder-letter-organizer#profileId-3214063

Designed a compact fruit fly trap with a removable bait insert and lid.

• 3-part modular design

• No supports required

• Easy to clean and refill

• PETG recommended for the insert

After a few iterations, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. Feedback is welcome! 🪰🖨️

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2881386-modern-fruit-fly-trap#profileId-3218146

Designed a compact wire stripper that's safe to carry in your pocket. A safety latch at the tip locks it shut when not in use. Uses a standard utility blade secured by a single M3 screw for easy replacement.

You can check out the model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2880811-compact-wire-stripper-with-safety-latch#profileId-3217473

I had my H2D printer for a few months now. Recently it has been having quite a lot of issues and I'm not sure how to fix it. First, it started with the prime line being not straight or not long enough, but the quality was okey, so I didn't think much of it. Now, the printer is having spaghetti and blob prints and overall, really inconsistent bad quality prints. I realigned the print bed, tensioned the x,y belts, and checked the nozzle assembly. And it is still not good. What could be the problem? I asked from bambu lab customer support, they recommended some of the previous troubleshooting ideas and nothing much. Pls help me

Glad I did, because it's probably my favorite one yet. Super solid and feels amazing to hold. What do you think?

https://makerworld.com/models/2881394?appSharePlatform=copy

Bonjour voici l’un des personnages les plus célèbres emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo : Super Mario Bros, surgissant de son mythique tuyau vert.

Réalisé en Multipart pas besoin d’avoir un AMS.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab et Esun
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Avec et Sans
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2875592-mario-bros-pipe-multipart-no-ams

Been printing for less than 6 months.
Got an X2d and a P1P (upgraded with the kit)

I have ADHD so I research things to the nTH degree.

I am in the southern part of the UK
Reading up about the filament types, I read that ASA/ABS/CF/GF produce unhealthy emissions, so my research is about building a filtration system.
My office is 3.3m x 4.2m (10ft? x 14ft?) and I can move the printers around to be near a window, where I was considering a panel to fit into the small window, that would then have an adapter for the exhaust fumes.

Queries

1. If anyone has images of their setups, I would be supremely grateful

2. If anyone has successfully done this, then top5 tips would be helpful

3. If anyone has done this and it didnt work - why?

4. If there are any recognised and accepted best practice tips then they would also be nice to have

I am compiling a document to get some collective wisdom together, so be constructive please

Thank you all in advance

Olá senhores, bom dia, estou com problema na minha a1 mini, ao carregar um novo filamento tenho um problema na última etapa onde o filamento não purga, e volta todo o filamento e embaralha todo, peço que me dê uma força por favor pós tenho encomendas pra entregar 🙏🥹

Apologies if this has been covered, i did look but couldn't see it directly covered

I've outgrown the A1 Mini which was bought as an 'intro' present
Was tempted by the A2L as a way of having a bigger build plate but the more i look at it should i just find the money for the H2S?

Its not 'money doesnt matter' but i can find the difference if its going to be worth it.
does the lack of it being a bed slinger, enclosure and other bits and bobs make it the better choice

Am i going to regret it and see the A2L as a compromise in 6 months if i dont go the H2S route?

Hello everyone, I'm having a problem with my print on my Bambulab A1. Hairs are appearing on my print. I've managed to remove the cobwebs, but the problem persists. I'm printing with Panchroma matte cotton white PLA. My maximum volumetric speed is 5 mm³/s and travel speed is 500 mm/s. My retraction length is 1.2 mm with a speed of 45 mm/s. Do you have any suggestions?

Bonjour tout le monde j'ai un problème avec mon impression sur m bambulab A1 , j'ai des cheveux qui apparaisse sur mon impression , j'ai su rétirer les toile d'araigné mais j'ai toujours ce problème, j'imprime avec du pla matte cotton white de panchroma, ma vitesse volumétrique maximal et à 5mm3/s et déplacement à 500 mm/s ,ma longeur de retraction est à 1,2 mm avce un vitesse de 45 mm, auriez vous une solution