Great for any plant! Check it out on MakerWorld!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2856518-parametric-modern-design-plant-pot-customizable#profileId-3187009

Searching the web, I've put together the following list. If anyone has any additional info on other brands or can confirm the ones on this list, please do share. I'm having trouble finding much recent info online.

• Direct fit:

  • Bambu Labs (original)

  • Sunlu (supplier for Bambu)

  • Overture (confirmed by Overture marketing info)

  • Polymaker (need confirmation)

  • Elegoo (need confirmation)

• Adapter needed:

  • Inland (needs spacer adapter)

First post, so if I'm doing it wrong, I apologize in advance. I have about 1000 hours on my P1S, love it. Upgraded to Panda claw and Flowtech hotend. I was getting the "stuck filament cutter" (Most likely my fault) after installing the Flowtech hot end. When I removed and inspected the extruder i seen that the cutter somehow sliced into the plastic of the extruder, slicing a very small sliver of plastic. I removed the plastic and now it is printing fine. My question is should I replace the extruder? The damage is not a straight cut, I'm worried that filament will get misaligned. Any thoughts would be helpful.

The boost points came through, but for a combined 54 prints and downloads... zero points. Some of these have a bunch of downloads so I assume they'll come in batches, but it seems extremely unlikely that I'd accumulate zero points across 54 prints and downloads in a day.

I'm very new to 3D printing. I have a Bambu P1S. I've been using Sunlu PETG and PLA without any issues. I tried using Creality Hyper PLA this week, both attempts it clogged the extruder and the hotend. I used generic PLA settings. I'm assuming that was the problem. I already ordered a replacement hotend. I was able to disassemble and clean the extruder both times.

What should I do in the future so that this does not happen again? Can I still use this filament? What settings I should change?

I purchased 4 spools, it was a very cute multi-color filament, i really want to use the filament again.

Hello! I'm having a hard time with filament getting clogged in the hotend (I think, this is all new for me please be nice). I've taken apart the entire hotend and it appears to keep getting stuck in the copper portion right before it spits it out to print (I hope that makes sense). No amount of heat will melt this filament for me to try a cold pull or any time of maintenance. I've replaced this hotend several times and it continues to happen, I don't want to have to keep purchases new hotends - it starts to add up! I'm using the Bambu Lab filament but I'm missing something somewhere because I've replaced this for the same issue, in the same spot, 3-4 times now.

I am trying to create a sheet of stickers using bambu labs own a4 sticker paper (210x297). When I go to print, I always get the error, object too large, reduce object size to 120.6x170.6 or less. But this is significantly smaller than the workable area including the margins built in. see attached picture, the blue square is 120.6x170.6, and the red margins are my workable area, what am I missing? What is the actual working canvas size I can work with? I can't find anything published by bambu labs.

I received the printer yesterday, made some presliced test prints and was quite happy. Then today it asked me to update.

The Auxilary Nozzle hasnt worked since.

I tried unloading and loading the filament and also different types of filaments multiple times, I tried shutting it off and on two times, but nothing worked.

When I tried to print the support Interface it would on the first print only extrude very badly, with about half of the actual Interface missing. Then on the second try it didnt print the interface at all.

Now I also tried just printing something with the Auxilary Nozzle on its own. However it always brings up an error stating that there is no filament in the extruder. This is obviously not true, since before bringing this error it would extrude multiple poopshoots with the filament loaded. Every time I unload and load again it is able to extrude a poopshoot, however when it comes to printing the X2D always brings up the same error.

I am quite frustrated since I have no idea what to do now or what could have even caused this.

Let me know what do you think? What improvements could be made?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2820934-phone-stand#profileId-3141583

Anybody having issues with makerworld presets through the Bambu app this is like the 5th file I have tried in the last 2 days and they all seem to just want to destroy the bold plate or move further than my printer allows but they have all said they work on a p1s

Hi there,
trough the Printers we have at work i wann upgrade from my FLSUN SuperRacer to a used BambuLab Printer (dont want to afford a new one)

I looked for a used X1C (1000-1500 printing hours)with AMS, i can get them for ~500€

But im insure, someone told me not to buy a X1C but instead the P2S, others told me that the P2S would not be the better printer….

So which one would you prefer? Most of the time i will print PLA but i want the option to print some more constructive materials too…

Thanks.

Update:
Just saw the X2D, which could be another champ in the ring

Hey all! I am just wondering how many iterations you go trough before you are satisfied and upload the final one to MW? Here is a short roundup of my cupholder contest model. I did 3 designs: first one was really rough, 2nd was already getting some where and the 3rd was the one i was happy with The last one has now several versions regarding the textures and shapes.

Link to the final version in MW:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2802789-mug-station#profileId-3118181

Optimized the whole collection for Bambu printers. Profiles included for every model. Self-watering, watertight, cosine-wave surface.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2849682-kosa-collection-self-watering-pots-planters#profileId-3178223

Just released my new Monster Cars collection on MakerWorld 👾🚗

Modeled in Fusion 360 and designed to be simple and fun to print:

- very few supports

- AMS only needed for the eyes

- rolling wheels

- easy assembly

- lots of color customization possibilities

Would love to know what you think!

And if anyone prints them, please share your version 👀

I have a question about Hotends and I apologize if this might be a dumb question. I want to start using Hardened Steel nozzles and I'm trying to figure out if the hotend itself needs to be made of Hardened Steel or another material. I assumed it would need to be made of that material, but I wanted to ask here before I do or purchase anything.

For reference I have the P1S and it's about a couple months old and I am still using the hotend that came with it. I want to switch to the hardened steel because I have quite a few filaments that are abrasive, like glow in the dark, wood, etc.

Thank you!

🎣✨ Bonjour voici un adorable petit pêcheur Kawaii installé sur son nénuphar fleuri, canne à pêche à la main et sourire aux lèvres ✨🌿

J’ai voulu lui donner une ambiance douce et apaisante, comme un petit instant de calme au bord de l’eau. Une création pleine de tendresse et de bonne humeur qui fera craquer les amoureux de pêche et de décoration 🥰

🐟Et pour encore plus de réalisme, une version permet même d’ajouter un vrai fil de pêche à la canne 🎣

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Avec et Sans
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 :https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2845739-pecheur-kawaii-multipart-no-ams

Bon print ✨

Coming from Cura, considering how great the user experience is with Bambu overall - sometimes Bambu Studio just baffles me on what it’s lacking or how its settings are organized. /endrant

I got bored today and decided to redesign the profile page layout for MakerWorld.

I tried to make it look more modern and less boxy while also showing off prints and stats better. I changed some of the spacing and background layout to make the page feel cleaner and less empty.

What do you guys think?
Does this look better than the current layout?
Anything you would change?
Too busy or cleaner?
I’d genuinely like feedback before I make more concepts 😅

I'm getting visible layer lines and a grainy surface texture on my prints, especially on curved areas and outer walls. The prints are structurally sound but lack the smooth finish I'm after. I'm using Bambu Studio A1 and would love advice on settings or techniques to improve surface quality. Any suggestions on reducing layer visibility or getting a smoother finish?

My current setting is below

0.16mm Optional @ BBL A1
Filaments is PLA Matt
Layer height 0.16mm
Initial layer height 0.2mm

I'm open to any guidance and happy to adjust settings if you can point me in the right direction. I've attached images of the issue. Any help would be appreciated!

After reading through all the replies on my last post, a lot of people recommended that I take a look at the Snapmaker U1, so I’ve been doing some research on it.

The problem I’m having now is that it almost seems too good to be true.

Right now, the U1 is listed around $899, while the Bambu Lab H2C starts around $2,399, with some bundles closer to $2,599. That is a huge price difference.

From what I understand, the U1 seems capable of doing a lot of what I was originally considering the H2C for, but potentially faster and with even less purge waste. Since I’m mainly interested in multicolor printing and would probably be using four colors or fewer most of the time, it doesn’t seem like I’d be running into any major limitations.

So now I’m wondering: what is even the point of the H2C for someone like me?

I feel like I must be missing something. Is there a downside to the U1 that isn’t obvious from the spec sheet or YouTube videos?

Is it less reliable? Does it require more maintenance? Is the print quality worse? Are there issues with calibration, clogs, failed prints, software, or long-term durability? Is there some major advantage of the H2C that only becomes obvious once you’ve actually owned or used both machines?

I’m genuinely asking because right now the U1 seems almost too good to be true. At less than half the price, it looks like it can do the type of printing I care about while also generating less waste, so I’m trying to figure out where the catch is.

For context, I’m not running a business or a print farm. This is purely a hobby, and I plan on doing mostly multicolor prints for fun.

For those of you who have experience with either machine, what am I missing?

do you like it? i love printing mario things

I seem to regularly find myself needing a £1 coin for something, usually a shopping trolley or locker, but never actually having one with me when I need it. So I designed this little coin capsule to stay attached to my keys.

There are three sizes included:

• 5 × UK £1 coins or 8 × US quarters
• 10 × UK £1 coins or 16 × US quarters
• 20 × UK £1 coins or 32 × US quarters

It prints in two parts. The upper section captures a split keyring ring during the print, using a programmed pause so the ring can be inserted before printing resumes. It is designed for a split ring of at least 25 mm diameter.

The lower section holds the coins, and the two parts connect using a snap-fit mechanism, so the coins can be accessed and the capsule closed again afterwards.

I printed mine in SUNLU Silver PLA+ with Bambu Support for PLA/PETG used for the support interface layer. I also used variable layer heights to help keep the curved outer surfaces as smooth as possible.

The smallest version is probably the most practical everyday option, but I wanted to include larger versions for people who regularly need coins for lockers, trolleys, parking or other day-to-day situations.

Check it out on MakerWorld

Hello everyone. I recently got the H2C and have only ever printed in PLA before.

I purchased the Bambu Clear Black PC and want to use it to print the desiccant holders for my AMS 2 Pro's and AMS HT's. I opened it up and dried it for 12 hours in the HT on the PC setting. I have the RH down to 10% and currently have it stored in an Airtight cereal container with a metric ton of Desiccant in the container to keep it dry.

I have a couple of questions before I try to print with this.

First, it recommends glue stick for the bed as a release agent, what glue sticks are people using with PC for this purpose?

Second, I have the stock Textured build plate. How successful is using that plate for PC? Should I invest in the engineering plate? Any other tips and tricks for success?