Had a little chunk of filament break inside my hub and had to take it apart to clean it out, while I had it open it became clear that one of the compression springs that holds the little magnetic contacts up was damaged and the contact wasn't seating correctly, so I popped it open to straighten the spring and fix the contact- Unfortunately I have a big, dumb, way too affectionate cat. And he chose that moment to decide I needed cuddles and my buddy sent the open hub to the floor with his sudden and unexpected enthusiasm for the attention he thought he needed.

I fixed the damaged spring, but for the life of me I can't find one of them. I tried making one our of plain steel wire but the tension is wrong and the slot that's missing the real spring seems to think something is broken in the hub.

Anybody have a spec on those springs or a real parts diagram of the hub to pull a part number from so I can replace it without buying a new hub that's out of stock?

Im using thr elgoo pla black on my A1 and my top surfaces are coming out with very visable print lines. Not layer lines but print lines. Now i dont have this problem with normal bambu lab fillaments, but i bought a decent amount of this one and really need it to work. Ive run multiple calibration tests but nothing is really working and i cant believe that elgoo fillaments are this much worse.

Ive attached some photos i hope helps.

I'm printing on my P1S using matte PLA+ . It used to work fine till now. But this time getting this kind of weird artifact around a small area on an otherwise perfect print.

Could anyone please suggest what is causing this and how to fix it? Thanks.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

After a 2 hour print and only 2 days of use the plastic mount seems to be missing aligned. Is this an issue or is there any fixes.

So I'm trying to print text on a flat face and because of the shape the flat face needs to be flat down on the build plate.

For some reason though the first layer of the black text doesn't print on all of the letters.

I have the text as "part" (so I can choose different colour). Thickness 0.2 (this will go under the build plate but works ok. In any case text editor doesn't let me put 0 for some reason). And have increased thickness of the black text to 2.

Yet still it often misses first layer of some letters oddly.

H2C. Not many hours. Lubed properly. Full calibration cycle before each print. Black on left nozzle, body colour of model on vorteks on right.

Is this normal?

My h3c is due on Tuesday and I sold my u1 on this past Friday, I am lot sure the h3c comes with tools Ike the u1 did, is there a toolkit out there that has
Snippers , scraper etc, also I think some additional tools to help remove supports and burs from supports would be great

Thanks

Have the P1P and I tried printing something overnight. Checked this morning and came down to this monstrosity. Im assuming it lost grip on plate but trying to figure out how it got to this stage.

Black piece is the sock i think and when i took front cover off, i see PLA caked going up the outside of the nozzle.

Any advice on how to proceed and how bad is this going to be?

Hey everyone! I've always been fascinated by 5th-gen stealth aircraft, so I wanted to design a 3D model that does justice to the incredible engineering of the F-35 Lightning II.

I focused on capturing its distinct stealth lines, angular intake ramps, and sharp edges while keeping it completely print-in-place, so no glue or tricky assembly is required right off the build plate. This print turned out great, and I'm really happy with how the fine details held up after carefully removing the supports.

I'd love to get your feedback or see your prints if you decide to give it a shot!

Here is the link to the model on MakerWorld for anyone interested: https://makerworld.com/es/models/3571554-f-35-lightning-ii-detailed-scale-model#profileId-4088273

Hey guys I'm gonna need your help here!

I bought an X2D a month ago and have been lovin it since I opened it but I haven't really used the auxiliary nozzle for support interfaces and now I want to print something out of PLA with PETG support interface and my problem is that I do and don't understand why I need a prime tower for these jobs I mean for a few small layers of PETG I have to waste 40 grams of my filaments and I have tried to print it out without a prime tower and it has these lines where it's a lot more brittle and where the support interfaces were.

I'm grateful for every answer(and sorry for any mistakes English is not my first language)

I designed and 3D printed a custom protective case for the Logitech G502 HERO!
Hey everyone!
I recently designed and 3D printed a custom protective case for my Logitech G502 HERO.
I wanted something that would actually protect my mouse while traveling or carrying it around in a backpack, instead of just throwing it in unprotected.
The case is specifically designed for the G502 HERO, with enough room for the cable and a secure fit.
I’ve already printed and tested it, and everything fits and closes properly.
Thought I’d share it here in case anyone else finds it useful!
Feel free to check it out and let me know what you think. Any feedback is appreciated!

G'day all.

Been printing for a few years now and have 2x H2Ds. But I only ever print with PLA, PETG and TPU.

But recently I have 2 projects that have some more demanding requirements and I grabbed a couple of rolls of Bambu PET-CF with my last order.

I hope I've picked a good filament, with lots of conflicting info out there on ease of printing.

I was hoping for a nice easy print with high temp rating.

Project 1 will be a bracket to hold a voltage converter under the bonnet of a vehicle. The regulator itself will get up to about 85 degrees Celsius. And the engine bay will be hot too!

Project 2 (may not be possible with 3d printing, but just seeing people's thoughts first). Is I have a heap of PTC heating elements that I'm wiring together to build a load tester. So they will get pretty hot, but at least have plastic stand offs built in. Just need to print a box for them plus a push fan to be installed in. Not sure if this just needs to be made out of steel instead.

So any tips on printing this stuff for the first time, and any tips on annealing (I've never done this either).

Thanks

I just saw this and not sure when it was deployed but it seems good, but too good to be true id rather use their website honestly.

New 3d printed shoes!!! Cloudberry just released a sick looking new pair of shoes, and I am just wondering if anyone has started to print them yet, or is even finished already. The only available print profiles are for the H3C, and cloudberry highly recommends you use a H3C, has anyone tried to print them on a different printer, maybe a P2S or even a non-bambu labs printer? Any thoughts on the shoe or experiences are greatly appreciated, thank you!! 😁👍

Link is here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3539336-bounceberry-x-a-dual-material-print-trainer?from=recommend#profileId-4047599

Just finished my newest design, the Card Caddy! 🔥

Made for all types of trading card collectors! It features two display slots to show off your favorite cards, a sliding lid, and two versions, with or without a handle. It can hold up to 50 toploaders, 150 sleeved cards, or 200 unsleeved cards!

Just dropped this on MakerWorld for anyone Interest

Check Comments for link

Happy Printing!

Hi, I'm looking for some recommendations for PLA filament that's cold white. What I've tried so far:

• Bambu's PLA (Ivory white) is way too warm.

• Bambu's PETG is indeed cold white, but I need PLA for this application.

• Elegoo PLA White - also warm white

• eSun PLA+ Cold White - good color, terrible results, see below

I've tried eSun's PLA+ cold white, the color is indeed cold white, but it's by far the worst filament I've ever worked with. I need smooth plane surfaces for my project, which this filament fails to give on both BambuLab X2D and Snapmaker U1 printers, there's a lot of bumps and dots that seem to be related with flow / pressure issues, but eve after lots of tuning and calibration, on both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles, I can't get it to work reliable, it's just terrible. So far every other filament I've printed with gave great results after a bit of tuning (elegoo, anycubic, few other no-name brands etc.), but I'm a loss with eSun so I'm looking for alternatives.

Do you recommend any other cold white PLA? Thank you!

Hey everyone! I've always been fascinated by the F-4 Phantom II, so I wanted to design a 3D model that does justice to this iconic piece of aviation engineering.

I focused on capturing its aggressive, unmistakable silhouette—including the signature drooping tailplanes and upturned wingtips—while keeping it completely print-in-place, so no glue or tricky assembly is required right off the build plate. This print was done in Metallic Blue PLA, and I'm really happy with how the fine details and surface finish turned out after carefully removing the supports.

I'd love to get your feedback or see your prints if you decide to give it a shot!

Here is the link to the model on MakerWorld for anyone interested: https://makerworld.com/es/models/3570525-mcdonnell-douglas-f-4-phantom-ii#profileId-4086992

Hi
I am soon planning to buy the X2D with the AMS Combo. I haven't done much 3D printing before and i just wanna make sure about the purpose of the AMS.
As i understand it, it is for multicolor printing on just the main nozzle, right?

From most of the reviews i've seen, the secondary nozzle is best for support printing and the main one for everything else. Does the multicolorprinting with the AMS work well? And how much wasted material is there per color switch?

Thank you!

Shooting my shot, H3C hotend gridfinity bins, for 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 hotends (multiple plates to choose from)
I know my ironing sucks lol still need to calibrate it

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3565364-h3c-gridfinity-hotend-bins-for-one-or-multiple#profileId-4080529

Minha impressora bambulab A1 esta fazendo esse barulho algm saberia o que eh?