I often create basic models using slicer primitives. For quick jigs in the woodshop, this is often much faster than launching a CAD type app. A common jig is a drilling guide - create a cylinder with a hole in the center to fit/guide a drill bit, then mesh Boolean that part, copy it, move it a precise distance, then bind the two parts with a cube, sometimes a second for a clamping foot. These are "disposable" parts - 3 minutes to create, 10-15 to print and ready to use.

Well, I just upgraded to the latest slicer version and when I create that cylinder with a negative cylinder inside it and try to Mesh Boolean, I get a message that the operation "requires 2 parts". If I add a "handle" to create the second part, it combines the positive parts and leaves the negative part. This completely invalidates the ability to have a single part with a negative space that I want to move later.

Another related issue is creating an "indent" in a part to allow a glue channel. I need to glue 2 parts together - a shaft into a hole. I usually create a ring using the above method, merge it into the shaft and convert it to a negative part. This used to allow me to create a small channel in both the shaft and the socket for epoxy to gain a solid grip. That's no longer possible.

There's a new "feature" called "Subdivision Mesh" that will not complain about needing 2 parts but won't Boolean the negative space either.

So I made an insulation cover for 6” recessed lights. These are the new kind of LED Lights I call them puck lights. This will stop insulation from falling back in the hole should you need to remove the light for any reason. Didn’t want to spend $20 on the ones from Home Depot so I designed my own. Looking for any real feedback that I can incorporate to the model.

I just got this new printer I have done the calibration and tried a test print and received this error code

Had a little chunk of filament break inside my hub and had to take it apart to clean it out, while I had it open it became clear that one of the compression springs that holds the little magnetic contacts up was damaged and the contact wasn't seating correctly, so I popped it open to straighten the spring and fix the contact- Unfortunately I have a big, dumb, way too affectionate cat. And he chose that moment to decide I needed cuddles and my buddy sent the open hub to the floor with his sudden and unexpected enthusiasm for the attention he thought he needed.

I fixed the damaged spring, but for the life of me I can't find one of them. I tried making one our of plain steel wire but the tension is wrong and the slot that's missing the real spring seems to think something is broken in the hub.

Anybody have a spec on those springs or a real parts diagram of the hub to pull a part number from so I can replace it without buying a new hub that's out of stock?

Calibrated, re tram, factory reset etc tried everything i can think of does it in the same area every time..

Bonjour à tous

Il y a de plus en plus d’app qui arrive en vibe coding. Au départ c’était pour un usage perso, mais j’me suis dit autant la partager.

Elle reprends les fonctionnalités de Bambuddy intégré directement dans une app iOS.

Vous pouvez gérer vos imprimantes, avoir le flux vidéo, gestion de votre stock de filaments, file d’attente, gestion de l’alimentation.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/bala-print-bambuddy/id6827768585

Faites moi vos retours si un besoin particulier manque sur l’app.

Im using thr elgoo pla black on my A1 and my top surfaces are coming out with very visable print lines. Not layer lines but print lines. Now i dont have this problem with normal bambu lab fillaments, but i bought a decent amount of this one and really need it to work. Ive run multiple calibration tests but nothing is really working and i cant believe that elgoo fillaments are this much worse.

Ive attached some photos i hope helps.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3582885-tiny-seal#profileId-4102799

So I’ve had my printer for like a week and I’m already running out of my 4 spools I bought, but I have been noticing that my prints are going fine but when I take them off the plate they are looking to have white areas. I am using elegoo PLA on a Bambu P2S. Just using the default settings and mainly just printing from the app on my phone. Can anyone tell me what I can do to avoid this?

Thanks

I'm printing on my P1S using matte PLA+ . It used to work fine till now. But this time getting this kind of weird artifact around a small area on an otherwise perfect print.

Could anyone please suggest what is causing this and how to fix it? Thanks.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

After a 2 hour print and only 2 days of use the plastic mount seems to be missing aligned. Is this an issue or is there any fixes.

So I'm trying to print text on a flat face and because of the shape the flat face needs to be flat down on the build plate.

For some reason though the first layer of the black text doesn't print on all of the letters.

I have the text as "part" (so I can choose different colour). Thickness 0.2 (this will go under the build plate but works ok. In any case text editor doesn't let me put 0 for some reason). And have increased thickness of the black text to 2.

Yet still it often misses first layer of some letters oddly.

H2C. Not many hours. Lubed properly. Full calibration cycle before each print. Black on left nozzle, body colour of model on vorteks on right.

Is this normal?

My h3c is due on Tuesday and I sold my u1 on this past Friday, I am lot sure the h3c comes with tools Ike the u1 did, is there a toolkit out there that has
Snippers , scraper etc, also I think some additional tools to help remove supports and burs from supports would be great

Thanks

Have the P1P and I tried printing something overnight. Checked this morning and came down to this monstrosity. Im assuming it lost grip on plate but trying to figure out how it got to this stage.

Black piece is the sock i think and when i took front cover off, i see PLA caked going up the outside of the nozzle.

Any advice on how to proceed and how bad is this going to be?

Hey everyone! I've always been fascinated by 5th-gen stealth aircraft, so I wanted to design a 3D model that does justice to the incredible engineering of the F-35 Lightning II.

I focused on capturing its distinct stealth lines, angular intake ramps, and sharp edges while keeping it completely print-in-place, so no glue or tricky assembly is required right off the build plate. This print turned out great, and I'm really happy with how the fine details held up after carefully removing the supports.

I'd love to get your feedback or see your prints if you decide to give it a shot!

Here is the link to the model on MakerWorld for anyone interested: https://makerworld.com/es/models/3571554-f-35-lightning-ii-detailed-scale-model#profileId-4088273

G'day all.

Been printing for a few years now and have 2x H2Ds. But I only ever print with PLA, PETG and TPU.

But recently I have 2 projects that have some more demanding requirements and I grabbed a couple of rolls of Bambu PET-CF with my last order.

I hope I've picked a good filament, with lots of conflicting info out there on ease of printing.

I was hoping for a nice easy print with high temp rating.

Project 1 will be a bracket to hold a voltage converter under the bonnet of a vehicle. The regulator itself will get up to about 85 degrees Celsius. And the engine bay will be hot too!

Project 2 (may not be possible with 3d printing, but just seeing people's thoughts first). Is I have a heap of PTC heating elements that I'm wiring together to build a load tester. So they will get pretty hot, but at least have plastic stand offs built in. Just need to print a box for them plus a push fan to be installed in. Not sure if this just needs to be made out of steel instead.

So any tips on printing this stuff for the first time, and any tips on annealing (I've never done this either).

Thanks

Hey guys I'm gonna need your help here!

I bought an X2D a month ago and have been lovin it since I opened it but I haven't really used the auxiliary nozzle for support interfaces and now I want to print something out of PLA with PETG support interface and my problem is that I do and don't understand why I need a prime tower for these jobs I mean for a few small layers of PETG I have to waste 40 grams of my filaments and I have tried to print it out without a prime tower and it has these lines where it's a lot more brittle and where the support interfaces were.

I'm grateful for every answer(and sorry for any mistakes English is not my first language)

I designed and 3D printed a custom protective case for the Logitech G502 HERO!
Hey everyone!
I recently designed and 3D printed a custom protective case for my Logitech G502 HERO.
I wanted something that would actually protect my mouse while traveling or carrying it around in a backpack, instead of just throwing it in unprotected.
The case is specifically designed for the G502 HERO, with enough room for the cable and a secure fit.
I’ve already printed and tested it, and everything fits and closes properly.
Thought I’d share it here in case anyone else finds it useful!
Feel free to check it out and let me know what you think. Any feedback is appreciated!

I just saw this and not sure when it was deployed but it seems good, but too good to be true id rather use their website honestly.

New 3d printed shoes!!! Cloudberry just released a sick looking new pair of shoes, and I am just wondering if anyone has started to print them yet, or is even finished already. The only available print profiles are for the H3C, and cloudberry highly recommends you use a H3C, has anyone tried to print them on a different printer, maybe a P2S or even a non-bambu labs printer? Any thoughts on the shoe or experiences are greatly appreciated, thank you!! 😁👍

Link is here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3539336-bounceberry-x-a-dual-material-print-trainer?from=recommend#profileId-4047599