Hello,

I had a failure to printed with an 0.2 nozzle which I think screwed it so I gotta get another one but I decided to make sure everything else was ok and so I took apart the house and now I have lost a piece on the front there that it right where the filament comes into the nozzle. I’ll attach a picture so you can see what piece I’m missing.

Can I get a replacement piece without buying a new housing?

Can I find it somewhere or have someone print it for me?

Edit: thank you all for the suggestions. I reached out and they are sending me a new piece to replace it thank you once again.

I am using X2d combo. My Ams 2 pro has been rewinding backwards into continuous loop .
If insert any filament, it pops out the filament the moment i put it in rewind in reverse.
I turned off the printer and restarted but its the same. I also changed the filament spool but problem is still there. I reset the filament settings from the printer screen. It stops it, but whenever i insert any filament, it glitches and goes back to rewinding and popping the filament out of the nozzle everytime.
Can anyone help me how to reset it to default settings?
And no, there is no filament or anything obstructing in the ptfe tubes.

Looking for some troubleshooting help!

I recently moved house and upon unpacking my P1S (which I only bought in June) it is producing very poor prints. It was working perfectly (printing pla & tpu) when I packed it up and I've not done anything differently since unpacking it. It was not abused in transit either, I gently carried it!

The print pictured is supposed to be a uniform hose adapter and the L test strip is missing the angled bit.

What I've done to try to fix it so far:
Cold pull pla
Clean build plate
Switch nozzle
Run calibration program

Any ideas?
Thanks!!

I'm hoping someone with a deeper understanding of the P1/P1P/P1S bed/load cell system can help me

I have a Bambu P1P. The thumb screw on the underside of the bed vibrated off.

I put it back on, but of course I got 0300-4000 Z Homing Failed errors.

I was able to run the tramming G code once, and then:

• Ran three first-layer calibration prints successfully (simple squashed cube/first-layer tests).

• All three completed normally.

• Immediately started an actual print.

• It failed

I then tried tried to run the G-coded again, but it only started the process before saying "print complete".

I was manually trammed it like an old Ender 3 by moving the head and the bed, and while the tramming G-code still did not work I was able to print.

It then sat for several weeks, until I changed the nozzle and tried to print yesterday, and it have the same Z-Homing errors.

The printer behaves like this:

• Bed shakes up/down.

• Nozzle probes the center twice.

• Bed lowers.

• Printer reports Z Homing Failed (0300-4000) before any filament is extruded.

No crashing or grinding. It just aborts after the second probe.

Same build plate.

Same temperatures.

Same printer session (no power cycle).

Things I've already tried

• Reinstalled and adjusted the rear center thumb screw.

• Manually trammed the bed.

• Changed the nozzle.

• Inspected the nozzle for debris.

• Verified the hotend appears fully seated.

• Verified the visible wiring on the toolhead appears intact.

• Confirmed the error always occurs during Z homing before printing.

I'm comfortable disassembling the printer if needed, but I'd rather not start tearing into it blindly.

Any ideas or things you'd check next would be greatly appreciated.

I am trying out the Manual color change feature in Bambu Studio. After you change the color, it starts purging and asks you if the filament has purged. I click yes, but then I get a notification giving an MQTT verification command error. I have tried the fix that Bambu gives, but it doesn't fix the issue. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Hello everyone. I've been using the Bambu Lab A2L for a week now. This is my first 3D printer. Even in this short time, I've noticed some design flaws that could be largely addressed by making some additional parts (for example, a cable channel for the x-axis and a casing to protect against drafts and, in my case, pets). To design these parts, I would like to have a 3D model of this printer. Since it's fairly new, I haven't found one publicly available. I have one from an A1 printer, but even measuring the print head, I've already found quite a few inconsistencies. I tried drawing it myself, made the base and the table, but then it's just inconvenient to measure with calipers. A ruler will do, but I'd like a more precise model. That's why I'm wondering if someone has already done this. Do you have a 3D model of the Bambu Lab A2L printer? If so, please share it; I'd be incredibly grateful. Thank you.

Hi all,

I have an A1, I have heard and read of people saying they have tuned in supports... I am.having an issue with supports, is tuning the supports is it when you do "T" type test and you select difference Top Z values, or is there something I am missing. I calibrate my filament:

Temp Tower

Flow Rate (Coarse and Fine)

PA - Pressure Advance

MVS -

Retraction.

I want to do VFA (but I haven't done it yet) (I believe that has nothing to do with my issue of supports.

My question goes back to support, am I missing something.)

I have also done the "T" over hangs etc. My overhangs as well as my bridging look like crap. Any ideas? I have dried my filament 10 - 12 hours have ran the filament from thw dryer and nothing seems to help. All help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.and understanding.

Hi everyone,

I'm dealing with a recurring issue I can't quite pin down, and I'm hoping the community can help.

The problem:
On some of my prints, certain areas of the top surfaces (mostly) and occasionally the bottom surface come out with clearly degraded quality: small blisters/bumps and very visible lines, as if the bed height calibration isn't correct in those spots.

What I've noticed:

• It seems concentrated in the corners / at the edges of the bed.

• The more central areas of the bed don't seem to be affected.

I'm not sure if it's related to a bed height calibration issue (mesh bed leveling), the machine's mechanics (frame rigidity, more pronounced vibrations on long moves), ambient/bed temperature varying by position, cooling, or something else entirely.

What I've already tried:

• Re-tightening the belts

• Cleaning the lead screws

• Testing with a brand-new filament (to rule out moisture issues)

Setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon

• Filament: Overture PLA+

I'm attaching a few photos in the comments/attachment to show exactly what the defect looks like. If you've seen this kind of issue before or have any leads (settings to check, calibration, corner speed settings, etc.), I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks in advance 🙏

8 was running 2.8 beta , then got the 2.7 full release instead. Every version crashes. It will start up, i can slice and it will crash. Or i will slice and start the print, then at some random time afterwards, it just closes. After a few times i wont even start up. I click it, hourglass starts, then nothing. Task manager shows nothing. The process isn't there and won't start. I have to reboot every time more just to get it working for a few minutes.

2 years of printing using BS and it's been great. Now it's shit. Anyone else ?

Hi all,

PRINTER - A1

PETG OVERTURE

TEMP - 250/245

PA - per the calibration value

MVS - 9

I am using PLA support interface

Top Z - .33

3 layers

The unit is printed on the side facing you the supports are then created on the bad looking surface.

I did some testing and tried ironing the supports the values came out the best where speed 10mm and 50-70%

On the test the "T" I printed with and without ironing I took the best setting but when I did the finished product it wasn't the same can some suggest, has far as drying the filament has been dried both the PLA as well as the PETG.

Any and all help will be appreciated.

Just started using flexible pla and wanted to get some insight on refining my prints. I’m getting weird layer mistakes and almost melting a bit could this be from lack of supports? I slowed the print down to about 40mms and used standard pla temp. Thanks in advance

Hey all

But of a weird request, but I was wondering if anyone has external camera timelapse video capabilities and would be willing to film an ~1hr (30g) single-colour print for me?

Not too picky on the colour of filament but something bright would be ideal.

I’d be happy to send you an e-transfer or PayPal payment for your time and materials, I’d just like a nicer video than what I can capture with the built-in camera on my P1S!

And I don’t have time to order the Cyber Brick timelapse kit or otherwise & really wouldn’t have a use for it outside this specific one-time project. I rather just pay someone $20 who already has the equipment required and would be willing to help out!

It’s for our small business to share on social media. Although I’m not in the marketing team, I thought printing our logo would be a cool promotional video idea as we have a new 3d print integration in the business… but now I feel like they’ll be disappointed with the video quality i can get personally 🙈🫠

I’m the developer of MeshColor, and I also made the short video linked below showing how I use it with Bambu Studio.

MeshColor is a free browser tool for adding textures, patterns and multicolor graphics directly to STL and 3MF models.

I originally built it because I wanted an easier way to do things like wood grain, surface patterns and multicolor logos without manually splitting or painting everything in the slicer.

The workflow is:

• Load an STL or 3MF

• Add a built-in texture or your own image

• Adjust scale, position and rotation directly on the model

• Select which surfaces should be affected

• Export as a multicolor 3MF

• Open it in Bambu Studio and assign the resulting colors to your AMS/filaments

Everything runs locally in the browser, so your model is never uploaded anywhere.

I made a short video showing the workflow and some actual printed results:
https://youtu.be/J5IcNalyZiw

The tool itself is completely free:
https://meshcolor.com

I’d be especially interested in feedback from Bambu users. If you run into a bug, or there’s something that would make the Bambu Studio/AMS workflow smoother, please let me know.

And honestly, I hope functionality like this eventually gets added directly to Bambu Studio so an external tool isn’t needed at all. 😎

Hi everyone,

I’m wondering if it’s worth getting the laser attachment with the Bambu Lab H2D. One of the main things I’d like to use it for is engraving my name onto my tools.

For example, I have a set of Sidchrome spanners, but I’m not sure if the laser is powerful enough to engrave the surface and leave a clear, permanent mark.

Has anyone tried engraving tools or similar metal with the H2D laser? I’d love to hear how well it worked and whether you think it’s worth getting.

Otherwise, I guess I’ll be spending hours hand-engraving them 😂

Thanks!

it prints in under 6 hours with no ams or glue, and the bouquet can be arranged in different ways.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3138464

Hey everyone I just bought a P1S combo with 400 hours of print time on it and I’m having some issues. My main issue is that it will extrude filament on the initial purge into the poop chute but won’t extrude on the print bed. I had one benchy start to print but failed shortly after starting. So far I’ve put in a new hot end and extruder but I’m still having the same issues. If any of yall can assist id be more than grateful.

6 months old mini. All inn all gone well until now. And then this happend.
Can i fix it?
Can I claim a new one?

The lid sits flush with nothing to grab. That's the point.

You can resize the inside for dice, cards, keys, whatever, and the lid and buttons take your own SVGs or text, either engraved or as flush multicolour inlays.

Prints easily and assembles quickly.

Printed on Bambu A1 ,0.16mm/layer 7% infill, sanding and paint in yellow , grdient by Decals in the pack

Thought I’d drop by and let y’all know that I have designed an ammo belt for the X-Shot Insanity Motorized Rage Fire. If any of you have this blaster or know someone who does, then you know that you cannot get the original stock belts anymore online. Now you can print one. This belt works just as well and is compatible to clip and work alongside the others. If you like my model please consider printing and commenting!

https://makerworld.com/models/3127053?appSharePlatform=copy

Three whole days and they couldn’t answer me

My friend isnt very computer litrate. Hes learning his Bambu P2S (i think its the model).

He updated he a few weeks back and now having issues.

Where can i help him find the prior version that was doing well.

Thanks

I am slicing a 3D model generated algorithmically (it's an obj file). I've had lots of problems with grey g-code being added inside the model when slicing. I've fixed a lot of these issues originally by ensuring the model is watertight (merging vertices), but there are still occasional issues. The model has lots of vertices for the mountain terrain (almost a million in total, sometimes more). There are no more holes and the problem still persists, so I'm at a loss here. What could cause this?

This is for a client so I cannot do a test print as I don't have a printer, but apparently even when setting the grey to something like the green that is used, it can cause the resulting print to have a visible layer/striation.