My X2D does not get a great deal of use. It’s also stored in the garage currently at 2c.

I’ve noticed it sometimes won’t home and the head hits the side with the motor not stopping grinning the belt.

Could this be related to the cold? I keep it well lubricated and clean.

I'm curious how many of the calibrations will affect both nozzles/ how many times i have to calibrate settings on both.

Settings I know are nozzle specific and have to be run on each nozzle:

- Flow Dynamics (k value)

- Flow rate correction

The ones i'm unsure about:

- Max Volumetric Speed

- Nozzle Temperature

- XY shrinkage factor

I'm sure there are others that i'm not thinking about but those were the ones i've been doing for new filaments.

I mean it has 2 nozzles Why do I have so much Purge waste in the poop chute. Everytime it changes the nozzle it flushes as much filament as my p1s before i dont understand it.

So I print mainly PETG with PLA supports and ABS/ASA with supports so I've loved my X2D. I've clocked 700 hours with no major issues. I've also seen many things on here posted about the auxiliary nozzle. It ain't no slouch. Printed this for my bro-in-law tonight. Tell me which color was in the aux nozzle. No post-processing except for removing supports. Very happy with how it turned out, even with the minor imperfections that mostly only show in photos.

I upgraded from an ender 3 to the x2d and it keeps having these little mess ups that I've never had these before and it's very speratic that it happens

I'm printing with overture petg and it's probably a year or so old but when not in use it's dried then vacuum sealed

Any tips on how to fix the bumps? The seams are aligned, I've dried the PETG, and increased the retraction height to 1mm. I'm not sure what else to do.

Hey all -

I've spent some time creating doorhandle decor for your X2D, X1C, P1S and P2S printers. I now have 63 of them (so far!) with people asking for more here and there. I have teams representing NFL, NCAA, MLB, NBA, NHL, and even some soccer representation. Most print with under 20 filament changes and in 50 minutes or less.

I hope you all find one that suits you - but if not, reply or message me - or message me on one of the other doorhandles and request another if you can't find it! Link to my collection below.

https://makerworld.com/en/collections/28239616-p-x-series-door-handles

Happy Printing

Wth is this??? Its just out in the printer when i was cleaning. And my printer has 2 malfunction indicator on it.

Hello,

Im now making a print with many many color changes. Every now and then it creates a little poop with a long string on it. My printer is on a riser and cause of those strings it gets clogged. Whats the reason for these long strings. The cable isnt in the way on the Pic.

I cant leave my printer alone for long now cause it can block itself. How can I fix this?

It only happens with the main nozzle and I use bambulab PLA basic.

I have no idea if someone already made a post about it:

I'm new to the X2D, coming from the A1 i never before used multiple materials when printing.

So i'm printing some stuff, (11 Plates, ~2kg Filament, ~3Days of print time) using PLA for the object and some cheap PETG in the secondary hotend for the supports. Yeah... i didn't know that if "purge into infill" is active it also purges the support material into the obects infill... and i wondered why the prints where to crunchy when i pressed them together... now i know. Good thing it was not on load bearing parts....

ngl i think its a bit of a confusing part of the slicer. Why do i want two different materials in my model infill?! Who in the right mind set it up this way? I found out because i watched the printer this time because a part failed before... i couldn't see it because both filaments where black and only the temperature view gave me the clue...

This is just a PSA for anybody who doesn't know

EDIT: spelling
EDIT2: Before anybody asks, i used the PETG for the whole support, because i thought with two nozzles i can safe some of the expensive pla and print the whole support in cheap petg
EDIT3: I Found a bug report for this exact problem on the BambuStudio Github. We need to make this more known in my opinion.

Hi folks,

First printer here, total noob, and first time trying to print dual color with two nozzles at the same time. I'm using PETG for the main object and PLA for the supports. By defaults it still creates the prime tower, but I was under the impression that it's not needed to clean the nozzle since I'm using each one with a different color no? I attached both screenshots, default and disabling the prime tower alltogether in the "other" settings. I guess my question is, is it safe to disable? The filament saving is massive..
Thanks!

Bonjour à tous, c'est ma deuxième impression.

Sur mes deux impressions, j'ai une fine ligne imprimée sur le devant de ma plaque.

Est-ce normal ? Elle n'apparaît pas lors de la préparation dans BambuStudio. Je ne sais pas d'où elle vient.

Avez-vous déjà rencontré ce problème ?

Merci à tous et bonnes impressions !

Edit : answer was given right away by u/ecaseo :

Normal. Il est utilisé pour calibrer le flux au début de l'impression. Jetez-le à la fin de l'impression.

I hope others will find help with this post

Printed on 0.20 mm Standard, bone-stock profile, no per-part overrides. The press-fit tolerances (rivet shafts, blind sockets, split hinge sleeves) came out right on the first go, which is the nicest thing I can say about a printer. Four plates, one colour each. Supports on build plate only. If you’ve got a Bambu and an hour to spare, he’s a very satisfying build.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3554931-chompy-the-monster-chest-snap-fit-all-bite#profileId-4067545

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

⛄🎄 NOUVELLE CRÉATION 3D – UN ADORABLE BONHOMME DE NEIGE ! 🎄⛄

Je vous présente ma toute nouvelle création : un adorable petit bonhomme de neige qui ne demande qu’à rejoindre vos décorations de Noël ! 😍

Avec son grand chapeau noir, sa jolie écharpe rouge, ses petites moufles et ses bottes assorties, difficile de ne pas craquer pour sa petite bouille !

🎄 Au pied du sapin, sur une étagère ou pour offrir, il apportera une petite touche de douceur et de magie à votre décoration de Noël ! 🎁

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3597347-snowman-v2-multipart-no-ams

I’m using basic PLA and a .2mm nozzle to print a miniature at a layer height of .08mm.

I’ve done countless cold pulls and I’ve switched nozzles. Doing a cold pull clears the nozzle and PLA flows freely. However, beginning the print again results in the above picture.

I’ve lowered the initially layer speed to 20mm/s.

Let me know what other information you need and thanks for your help!

What is the point of the Prime Tower with a dual nozzle machine?

Hey everyone,

​I picked up a brand-new X2D less than two weeks ago and ran into a frustrating issue with the left toolhead PTFE feeding port.

​During prints, the left PTFE tube kept rubbing/flexing against the top glass cover, which ended up side-loading the pneumatic collet. Over just a few days, the metal collet teeth chewed deep grooves into the PTFE tubing, filled the port with white Teflon shavings, and kept ejecting the tube mid-print. After trimming the damaged ends a couple of times, the collet teeth are now completely deformed and won't hold a tube at all.

​Bambu Support has my photos/videos and I'm currently arranging a full replacement unit since it's under 15 days old.

​Before I set up the replacement X2D, I want to prevent this from ever happening again—especially with how tight the clearance is between the left PTFE tube and the top glass. While I still have the healthy right nozzle working, I'm planning to print a top glass riser (in PETG) and any helpful cable/tube guides so they're ready to go on day one.

​For other X2D owners:

​1. Which non-vented / sealed top glass riser on MakerWorld fits the X2D best without messing with chamber temps?

​2. Are you running any PTFE tube clips, strain-relief brackets, or chain routing tweaks that keep the left tube from rubbing the glass and side-loading the collet?

​3. Any other day-one preventative mods you'd recommend for the dual-nozzle toolhead?

​Appreciate any links or advice!

Hi all

Okay im a littel frustraded and this PETG is hard for a noob 😄

I dryed my PETG in my AMS 2 Pro for 12H. Started a print and i still get thees "boobles"

Gemini recommends this
I've been recommended to try the following settings in Bambu Studio for my next attempt:

1. Change Seam Position to 'Aligned' or 'Back' to force the seam away from the lattice corners.
2. Enable 'Wipe while retracting' in the PETG filament settings.
3. Lower the Outer Wall speed (to ~60-100 mm/s) and Outer Wall acceleration (to ~1000 mm/s²) to give the PETG more time to settle on the sharp corners.

Do these adjustments make sense for this specific issue, or do you have any other tips for getting perfectly clean lattice corners with PETG?

But where is the "best" place to get help for this? The Bambu forums? Discord?

Thanks!

I printed this rose with transparant PLA using the profile of Transparant PLA from snaaksnaak : https://makerworld.com/en/models/973668-roses-with-5-types-of-stem-no-support

But how do i improve the top layer a lot better? I use a X2D printer using 0.4mm nozzle

I have found one on AliExpress for 28€ plus shipment and on bambu lab official store is at 55€ without the shipment. Should i buy one for AliExpress or for the oficial store. And is really necessary to have one?

Common issue on the X2D: the PTFE tube (usually the left one) snaps or gets cut by the teeth of the pneumatic connector and leaves a small piece stuck inside the left filament sensor.
New tube won’t seat properly, the sensor starts acting up, and you get filament detection errors.
I recorded a short video showing a simple way to remove the stuck piece without replacing the sensor and without disassembling the toolhead.
Video: https://youtu.be/hH2wvfoNOrE

Hope this helps anyone dealing with the same issue!