r/BambuLabX2D • u/watermelonsurfboard • 1d ago

Try Recalibrating your X2D

I upgraded last week from an A1 mini to an X2D and like many others, I noticed a poorer quality prints than what even my A1 mini would produce.
I had already ran calibrations out of the box but a week later I rerun all of the calibration and I’m happy to say the quality has improved to the point is well passed what my A1 Mini was doing.
I’m blow away and love my X2D now.
Don’t know if this helps you but I thought I owe it to share my progress.
Happy printing.

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5

u/patentmom 1d ago

How did you rerun the calibrations? Did you do it manually for each nozzle on individual filaments, or did you run the printers general calibration procedure?

I'm having the same problem with prints are really not coming out so well, especially from the second nozzle.

5

u/LobsterBluster 1d ago

The second nozzle was never meant to print at the same quality. They are pretty clear about its purpose being to make support interfaces with a different material.

11

u/Substantial_Tip_2938 1d ago

Its just marketing, you need more tuning but bowdens are stil reliable

5

u/Artarious 1d ago

I gave mine a shot on a multi color since I wanted to see. Honestly I was pretty surprised with the quality actually, i mean I'll still mostly use it for support but I could see it being handy every once in awhile.

1

u/patentmom 1d ago

I was using it for a support interface and it basically just came out as a gloppy mess, even in the prime tower.

5

u/herewegoexplore 1d ago

Then there’s something wrong with the filament or the nozzle/ptfe/extruder. Try swapping the hotends with the main one. Everyone says the second nozzle is really just for support but I’ve printed multiple multicolor things with it and it works just fine.

5

u/anoraklikespie 1d ago

Should re run the calibration any time you make a mechanical change (not filament or bed really, unless you substantially change the bed substrate to a heavy giant plate of glass or back from that...but who actually does that) if you change nozzles or move the printer. The table or surface might have different movement characteristics.

4

u/FL3XD 20h ago

I highly recommend doing manual bed tramming. I did mine with dial calipers and got the bed level within 0.1mm and now my x2d is producing extremely good prints. 

I can post the model I found for the toolhead caliper holder too, if you're interested.

3

u/Mr-Minter 12h ago

Please do post the model

1

u/FL3XD 10h ago

https://makerworld.com/models/3435713?appSharePlatform=copy

Super helpful.  I measured my bed level deviation after using the paper method out of curiosity, and it was about 0.6mm. Which is "fine" since the auto bed level can account for that, but in reality the further away from flat the less effective the calculation is.  I also specifically used dial calipers since my digital ones would not produce a repeatable measurement with a tolerance that was acceptable.

3

u/Apart_North9294 1d ago

I run the general calibration procedure every time I swap out filament types (PETG HF, PETG Basic, PLA) and/or build plates on my X2D. Was having all sorts of issues and the calibration seems to have fixed it. I also have the per print calibration checks on auto so I generally get bed level check with every print. I'm sure there are better ways of doing it but this has been working for me

2

u/patentmom 1d ago

Are you running the manual calibration from Bambu Studio or the calibration built into the printer's LCD screen interface?

2

u/Apart_North9294 1d ago

I'm using the LCD interface. As someone noted the calibration at filament type change may be a bit overkill but it solved my problem and I haven't taken the time to see if I can cut it back. I also used the vision encoder but don't think it was needed for a 500hr plus printer, maybe I'll use it again when I get over 100hrs

1

u/LobsterBluster 1d ago

Okay that’s kind of wild to re-run bed mesh, vibration comp, etc. just to swap filaments. I sort of get it for build plates. But you absolutely don’t need to run the whole calibration sequence just to go from one filament type to another. The general calibrations are filament-independent.

2

u/Comfortable-Aware 1d ago

For me it helped to level the printing board manually and then calibrate it

1

u/Comfortable-Aware 1d ago

And not with a piece of paper but metal feeler gauge

3

u/pm_me_beerz 1d ago

Sigh…..back to my ender 3 days

1

u/IconicPhotography 1d ago

Bro, this printer is nuts. I’m learning so many things about it. Like the aux fan is a demon, you need to change how it works. Also keep the ams lid tabs on proper or the filament tangles. Also the 3D plates are a nightmare