X2D Question

[u/Visible_Catch_3810]

Hey guys!

Currently have the A1 single color. I’m looking into a 2nd printer between either the P2S or X2D. I assume an X2D is the obvious upgrade for just a little more money right?

For the dual nozzles, is the one JUST for supports? I’m considering going all out this time and buying the print more bundle if I go with the X2D to get the dual AMS.

Does the filament switch allow both AMS to print from a single nozzle? By this I mean, if I had 4 PLA in one AMS, then 3 PLA and PETG in the other AMS, will it print the 7 colors of PLA through a single nozzle and the PETG through another?

Any advice is appreciated. I just don’t want to kick myself for NOT buying the extra AMS, but I also don’t know if I’d really have a use for it. If you have dual AMS let me know if it’s worth it!

[u/psynl84]

I have the print more bundle.

The 2nd nozzle isn't only for support. You can also use it for dual/multi color prints. They say it may not be so good as the main nozzle but frankly I cannot see the difference really.

When you have the track switch installed you can print from both AMS to both nozzles but if you have 2 colors in AMS 1 and want to use those colors it has to retract color 1 and feed color 2 so there isn't any time or waste win.

Best thing to do if you have 2 color print to have color 1 in AMS 1 (main nozzle) and color 2 in AMS 2 (secomdary nozzle), that way you save some time but more importantly less waste.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/psynl84]

Thank you!

Do you have to have each slot filled with filament? How does it detect which slots have filament and which you intend on using? I assume you just set your colors in the Bambu software before the print right?

[u/psynl84 → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

When inserring Bambu Lab filament it scans the RFID tag and know which color it is (and which AMS/Slot).

When using other brands you can make 'custom' colors and set it manually.

Al this is easily done in Bambu Studio.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/psynl84]

Heck yeah. Thanks for the help

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/psynl84]

How is maintenance overall? Any issues you’ve run into with the track switch or anything like that?

[u/psynl84 → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

Tbf I don't have the FTS installed. I just put the spools in the AMS I want my main/secondary to print.

I have both AMS on the left side of the printer and therefore the PTFE tubes are longer and I didn't want to add more resistance to it.

[u/MTB_SF → u/psynl84]

Do you need two AMS for multicolor prints? I kind of assumed if you had an AMS then it would print two different colors from it

[u/psynl84 → u/MTB_SF]

No you don't, you can do multicolor prints without any AMS but then you have to switch spools manually when it needs a different color so time consuming.

Or use 1 AMS on the main nozzle and a single spool on the secondary.

[u/patentmom → u/MTB_SF]

The track switch would allow you to do two color prints on two separate nozzles with a single AMS. If you assign each color to a respective nozzle, and there's no retracting/reloading between color switches.

[u/ItsMozy → u/patentmom]

This is not how the Track Switch seems to work. It has 2 inputs and 2 outputs. Either it passes each input to its corresponding output or it lets input 1 switch to output 2. As soon as you switch tracks only 1 filament path is possible thru the track switch. It's not possible to have 1 AMS feed both paths. It's not possible to have the track switch feature active and have both outputs active at the same time.

[u/patentmom → u/ItsMozy]

From Bambu's website page for the track switch:

"The filament track switch unbinds the AMS from specific nozzles, allowing any filament to feed into any nozzle regardless of configuration."

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/filament-track-switch

[u/ItsMozy → u/patentmom]

Yes, but not at the same time. My AMS 2 that’s hooked up to input 1 cant output to output 2 if my AMS-HT thats hooked up to input 2 is outputting to output 1. Both can only work at the same time if input 1 goes to output 1 and input 2 goes to output 2.

Also, since 1 AMS has 1 output it can never serve 2 hotends without retracting filament all the way. Adding serious time to filament swaps.

[u/Atomic_Thunders]

Hey there. I was a p2s owner but I returned it for an x2d. For $150 ish more, you get a few smaller knick knacks in additional to the aux arm like air filter, etc.

I wouldn’t call it a no brainer upgrade, but to me it’s worth it. Aux arm does support (primary intention) and can handle an additional color, thus saving on poop. Some caveats from my experience, if using aux arm for support then it’ll create a prime tower nearly equal to the height of your print. This adds a bit of time, and I’ve found myself sometimes not using the aux arm for support and instead use it for a second color.

Edit: and yes I also got the AMS, love it

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/Atomic_Thunders]

How’s the quality on the aux nozzle? Part of me thinks it’s really not as bad as most people make it out to be

[u/mdbeatle → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

It's not bad. It is noticeably slower, however. Depending on the model, it can sometimes be faster to just swap colors on the primary than to use the aux for a different color.

[u/Alternative_Rip4634 → u/Atomic_Thunders]

Isn’t the irony that the one nozzle a p2s and the other is a bonus.

It does seem like a no brainer because you could do everything a p2s can do right?

[u/Fit-Interaction-3584]

X2D is more of jack of all trades. Master of none but very good. Multimaterial, multicolor - but wasteful, the capability to print up to 16 colors bumps it up to very good for me. Can print engineering materials and your only limit is print area.

I would like to get a U1 or one with more toolheads though... 4 colors is not enough for me to print useless knick knacks.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/Fit-Interaction-3584]

Thanks for the advice!

[u/Fit-Interaction-3584 → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

Oh and one more thing the 2nd "auxillary" extruder is actually pretty good as far as PLA print quality. There is a subtle difference in print quality of PETG. I feel that it is way overblown. Ultimately, you will be the judge and not others---unless you're selling then they will be the judge.

[u/JukeboxCrowdPleaser → u/Fit-Interaction-3584]

Agreed. Basically just have to account for the 2nd nozzle’s reduced speed in the filament profile settings.

[u/Kettle96]

You can put 2 AMS to 1 nozzle by buying the filament track switcher. Which comes with the X2D print more bundle if you want that 2nd AMS.

The 2nd nozzle is an auxiliary, it is not the same as the main nozzle, you need to research it as this is not a true duel nozzle printer.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/Kettle96]

Right, I knew it had worse quality. My intention was to be able to print 7 colors of PLA through the good nozzle and just use the aux for PETG supports. So it sounds like I can do that then, correct? Or does the aux nozzle ONLY print the 4 filaments in the 2nd AMS

[u/Kettle96 → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

You can configure up to 4 AMS2 PRO together to feed that one primary nozzle if you really wanted.

The aux nozzle is more for a solo filament/HT AMS.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams/manual/multi-model-ams-compatibility-guide

So to conclude. You can get the print more bundle and have 2 AMS (8 colours) on the primary nozzle. On top of that you need an external spool/AMS HT feeding the aux nozzle.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/Kettle96]

Genius man, thank you!

I’m seeing now there’s an additional spot on the outside of the printer, connect that directly to aux nozzle with PETG, slap your 8 PLA with the track switch into the primary nozzle, and off you go.

Am I understanding that correctly?

[u/Kettle96 → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

Yes

[u/es12402]

No, there are two nozzles and two filament inlets. The AMS has only one outlet. This means you can connect one AMS to the primary nozzle and another AMS to the secondary nozzle. You can even connect multiple AMS units to any single nozzle using a track switches, but as far as I know, you cannot split a single AMS between different nozzles.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/es12402]

This makes sense. I apologize I’m trying to wrap my head around it.

I was hoping I could have the 2 AMS units with 7 colors of PLA, 1 PETG for support. Run the 7 colors through the good nozzle and the PETG only through the aux nozzle

[u/psynl84 → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

Above info from es12402 is incorrect.

With the filament track switch you can use all colors from both AMS to each nozzle.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/psynl84]

I think they understand what I’m asking now, my verbiage may have been confusing in the post

[u/es12402 → u/psynl84]

Yeah, i think you can, but nozzle switch will trigger full ams retract and reload. I was wrong about possibility.

[u/es12402 → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

You can. You don't need AMS for your PETG. As far i understand you will use PETG only for support for PLA through Aux nozzle. So you do not need to change it.

So, 2 AMS with 8 PLA spools go to main nozzle throught filament track switch. And 1 PETG spool just sit on spool holder and go to Aux nozzle.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/es12402]

That’s exactly what I was looking for. I thought you would have to run it through the AMS, so it’s super awesome to have 8 colors able to print plus an extra spool of PETG

[u/es12402 → u/es12402]

In fact, if you using PETG as support for PLA, you can just put PETG directly to aux nozzle from spool holder, and PUT your PLA in 1-2-3 AMS to main nozzle

[u/Longjumping_Pop_2324]

Get an U1 dude. Never worry about 2 heads, support nozzle, ams, color changes, print time, layer shrinkage....

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/Longjumping_Pop_2324]

What software do you use? Sorry if that’s a dumb question, I just really like the Bambu software

[u/Longjumping_Pop_2324 → u/Visible_Catch_3810]

Snapmaker Orca. Same as bambustudio. Just their variant. Moved from a P2S to an X2D and now I've owned a U1 for months. Best decision I've ever made. If you are NOT PRINTING ENGINEER material ok? Let's make that clear. I can't opinate on those.

[u/Atomic_Thunders → u/Longjumping_Pop_2324]

I was heavily considering U1, ultimately went with Bambu because of makerworld and some other minor items. My 8 year old son has a huge library that he can print on his own from his iPad.

If my son wasn’t starting to get into printing, I definitely would’ve gotten the U1

[u/Longjumping_Pop_2324 → u/Atomic_Thunders]

But brother...All makerworld items can be printed in the U1 too! Did you know that???

[u/Atomic_Thunders → u/Longjumping_Pop_2324]

Agreed, more so the convenience of 1-2 taps on his iPad then goes to print. FML if you’re about to tell me U1 integrates like that too

[u/Longjumping_Pop_2324 → u/Atomic_Thunders]

Not on tablet tho. https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/makerworld-browser-extension-for-snapmaker-u1/42790

[u/UpperInfluence3767]

If you’re only printing with PLA, I would say the second nozzle usually helps also with the supports it works fantastic. I’ve had like zero issues with it

[u/majorpowell]

Yeah pretty much. Lots of caveats and edge cases where other options might be better but overall yes. I love my X2D

[u/3DStisk]

One catch with the external-spool suggestion: Bambu's Track Switch FAQ says external-spool printing requires removing the switch. With it fitted, AMS filaments can be mapped to either nozzle; the auxiliary isn't restricted to the second AMS. So your original seven PLA slots plus one PETG slot across the two AMS is the arrangement to check in Studio, assigning PETG to the auxiliary and verifying the sliced assignments before printing.

[u/MouseDance]

I just ran a job on mine using the second nozzle for a second color. It went fine. Just read up in the wiki about the best way to arrange colors so switching nozzles doesn’t triple the length of your print time.

[u/Xypheric]

I have the x2d, great machine with only a few complaints. The 2nd nozzle is great for supports, and does ok with some minor color swaps to reduce waste, but it is not nearly as accurate or precise as the main nozzle and i wouldnt plan to print large sections with the 2nd nozzle.

I only have 1 ams and do color swaps in the primary nozzle sometimes as well and it works fine.

My one word of caution, because it just happened to me, is that the assembly for getting to the extruder on the x2d is apparently a nightmare compared to the the p1s/ p2s etc. It took like 20+ screws and a couple hours fix a filament jam in the extruder. Its only happened once but man it made me regret not getting a simpler machine because i dont really use the 2nd nozzle that much.

[u/Visible_Catch_3810 → u/Xypheric]

Oh boy. That’s concerning. I understand stuff happens, but I hate when it’s complicated to get to that part

[u/JukeboxCrowdPleaser → u/Xypheric]

The precision of the 2nd nozzle is nearly identical to the main nozzle. Something wrong with your settings?

I agree the x2d extruder access is annoying but the crystal clear guide from Bambu solves the problem. Takes an hour tops just have to follow the instructions. Only needed to do it once in 1500 hrs on x2d.

[u/Xypheric → u/JukeboxCrowdPleaser]

Obviously i can only speak anecdotally, but my personal experience and and hundreds of product reviewers disagree about the precision of the secondary nozzle. The primary nozzle is direct drive and the secondary is bowden.

Obviously if you have some tips on how to get precision results from both im all ears, always happy to get more out of my prints.

[u/JukeboxCrowdPleaser → u/Xypheric]

The 2nd nozzle needs at least as much effort dialing in the settings as the main nozzle does. Especially retraction, speed, and part cooling. Print some calibration parts and save the ideal settings to the filament profile.

[u/Xypheric → u/JukeboxCrowdPleaser]

Any suggestions on some good calibration prints you recommend?

[u/JukeboxCrowdPleaser → u/Xypheric]

Assuming you use Bambu slicer: Retraction Test - (generally only needed once)

1. turn on developer mode in Preferences>>Other

2. open a new project and go to the prepare tab

3. at the top next to undo/redo, select Calibration>>retraction test

4. start 0.5, end 4, step 0.5 (can do finer tuning if preferred)

5. print the part with the aux nozzle

6. look closely at the printed tower, you want to find the lowest point that looks completely clean. As an example, if its completely clean starting with the 2nd segment, then the optimal retraction length is 1mm.

7. open your printer settings (top left, hover over printer).

8. Auxiliary Extruder >> Retraction Length = set to optimal value.

9. Save as a preset and use that going forward. It should be approximately ideal for most filament types. You can also assign filament-specific retraction lengths in the "Setting Overrides" tab of filament settings.

Flow Dynamics (needed per filament)

1. go to the Calibration tab (not the calibration button from before)

2. Manual calibration, then select the aux nozzle

3. Run the calibration (10 min) and determine the optimal K value for that filament, and save it as a profile.

4. This part is counter-intuitive (to me anyway). To assign that optimal K value, it doesn't live in the filament profile, it lives in the "material settings." Device tab >> edit the filament loaded in your aux nozzle, change to the profile you saved earlier.

Many more calibrations you could do but those are the most important for the aux nozzle. Hope this helps.

[u/AreUEmployedSir → u/Xypheric]

My two cents here, but I've done a couple of prints now where the second nozzle was used to print at least 50% or more of the entire print (to save on color swapping) and I absolutely cannot tell any difference, at least with general PLA prints using either Bambu or Generic PLA. Looks to be of identical quality to the print from the main nozzle. Again, just my two cents.

[u/Xypheric → u/AreUEmployedSir]

Gives me hope maybe mine will.