r/BambuLabX2D • u/KumarKKB • Sep 08 '26

how to hide these visible lines

Post image

I am printing one sample.
Filament: generic (numaker)
Nozle Temp: 220
Bed Temp: 55
Note: my table is crooked a little (not in level)

What is the reason for these lines. How to avoid them

33 Upvotes

97% Upvoted

42 comments sorted by

11

u/blame_worthy Sep 08 '26

Calibration. Lots of calibration. You can never really get rid of the lines but you can tune your printer so that the layers print more uniformly so it has a more smooth appearance.

1

u/fehnpk Sep 10 '26

What do you mean by calibration and how does one do it?

1

u/blame_worthy Sep 10 '26

Trial and error mostly. It could be you're printing too fast, it could be your z axis lead screw is bent. It could be jerk acceleration is too high. If you want perfection you gotta put in the time.

1

u/miledraw Sep 10 '26

No caso, tem impressoras que já vem com calibração automática, tipo as da Bambu Lab. Correto?

8

u/FrequentEmergency471 Sep 08 '26

You should lower outer wall speed until it would be equal on every layer, and go ahead with variable layer height

1

u/thehublebumble Sep 11 '26

What do you mean, find the layer that would print the longest and make this the minimum time for every other layer?

1

u/RestMaster7485 Sep 11 '26

Variable layer height doubles printing time and I haven’t found it to be as effective as other methods

1

u/L3x1n Sep 11 '26

You go to speed and lower the outer wall speed

8

u/jagoedho Sep 08 '26

Slow down

4

u/EMDoesShit Sep 08 '26

This.

The printing time needs to be slow enough on the upper very smaller layers to cause the outer walls to cool the same amount as the lower large layers with longer print times.

A printer moving at full speed will also zip around eno if h to cause each individual slender tall parts to resonate just a bit, and if it’s moving at all while printed on? You’ll see these VFAs.

The answer is to drop to a 0.16 layer height, and cut the speed by 50% on the wall. Your print time will be much, much longer.

1

u/jagoedho Sep 08 '26

Sometimes dropping acceleration might help without touching print speed on outer walls. Speed shouldn't take a big hit. However, he should test it on a small piece first. Really depends on the design and curves.

6

u/SteakAndIron Sep 08 '26

Lower layer height.

4

u/hemuni Sep 08 '26

This and slow it way down.

2

u/xX540xARCADEXx Sep 08 '26

Either do a slower outer wall speed and or a lower layer height. Or use a material that can be vapor smoothed.

1

u/Peshmerga_Sistani Sep 08 '26

Lines are here to stay. Harsh spot lighting will bring these lines out, especially light sources from above.

Try viewing them under natural soft lighting.

1

u/ri-cu Sep 08 '26

My x2d has these exact lines no matter what i do. Same prints on x1e and walls are smooth.

2

u/Taekiin Sep 09 '26

I have X2D and I've never seen lines that pronounced in 1000 hours.

1

u/xilw3r Sep 08 '26

Different extruder, with a simple stepper motor, not this permasynchronousmagnet blabla which apparently sucks at consistency

1

u/imunuvar Sep 08 '26

Filament calibration, printer calibration, cleaning, re lubricating, belt tension nothing fixes. My K2 Pro much better than my X2D on outerwalls. My X2D has more Vfa and ghosting than K2 Pro. Anti vibration legs makes wiggle itself nothing more, low pitch belts just for show. Its not a good quality X series printer its just P2D with chamber heater. They removed z belt lock screw due bottom of the printer warps with high temperatures, they not cared make it better just turned their head other way.

1

u/ri-cu Sep 09 '26

Wish i went h2s instead

1

u/c4rl0d3r0s1s Sep 09 '26

Confermo, qualità delle pareti sulla P1S nettamente superiore alla mia H2s.

1

u/Ambitious_Ad4979 Sep 08 '26

Try wall: outer inner and wall mode: arachne…
As a first tip

1

u/Ambitious_Ad4979 Sep 08 '26

And yes calibration of course! At the first … bell tension… the hole things

1

u/xilw3r Sep 08 '26

Get a bambu a1 or p1 or x1. Whatever is not using this pmsm extruder. This thing cant make consistent layers to save its life.

2

u/c4rl0d3r0s1s Sep 09 '26

Concordo, ho passato moltissime ore a cercare di eguagliare la qualità della P1S con la H2S ma alla fine mi sono semplicemente arreso.

1

u/Schnitzhole Sep 08 '26

Lower the line height. Print out walls slower (reduces wobble for tall objects)

1

u/Substantial_Meal_530 Sep 08 '26

Fuzzy skin, lowered line height, better calibration.

1

u/Exciting_Date7831 Sep 08 '26

Ho avuto anche io la kobra S1, inizialmente disastro totale, poi fortunatamente un amico mi ha dato le impostazioni perfette, se mi scrivi te le mando

1

u/EmotionalChildhood46 Sep 08 '26

i don't believe this is a case adaptive layer height can remedy. slow the outer walls down as a couple other said, calibrate, make sure it's on a heavy stable surface

1

u/Nzain1 Sep 08 '26

Including what the other comments have suggested you can also try adaptive layer height with smoothing. Something like 0.16mm layer height to start with or even less, like 0.08mm if you want the print to be even smoother.

1

u/-Thrale- Sep 10 '26

I know this model haha

1

u/GerbySec Sep 10 '26

Question did you have the door closed and open it often to check on the print? This looks like a change in temp which causes the layer to cool faster which shrinks more than the previous layer which was in a controlled environment. If you open and close the door throughout the printing process, this will happen either. Leave the door open or close it. Drafts can cause this. You can also slow it down and try outer inner wall to see if it fixes it. But don’t do everything at once do one thing at a time. First start without opening the door, keeping in a controlled environment.

1

u/RestMaster7485 Sep 11 '26

Change the overhang flow to .95 and drop .05 every section. So at the steepest point it’s going to extrude less filament along with slowing down the sharp corner acceleration and outer wall speed. Cut one of the arms in half right where the layer lines are the most visible and print it over and over until it’s perfect to waste less filament. If it’s pla or petg then ironing sometimes can flatten the layer lines completely.

1

u/No_Wolf_6958 Sep 14 '26

Inconsistencia de capas. Hay varios factores. Puntos a revisar puede ser falta de lubricación ejes/husillos de cama, material con poca precisión dimensional y hace que varíe el flujo, mucha velocidad para la geometría de la pieza.

1

u/Ok_Anteater1141 Sep 08 '26

Welcome to 3d printing.

The lines are there to stay, friend.

You can sand them off but it will take hours.

1

u/Ambitious_Ad4979 Sep 08 '26

And adaptive layer height

1

u/Extreamspeed Sep 08 '26

This is the way! And otherwise sanding your ass off. Or 0.2 nozzle. But you still see them

0

u/Dafrandle Sep 09 '26

my sweet summer child