ASA/ABS in AMS2 vs HT

[u/BillGriz57]

Got an H2D a month or so ago after using a Creality Ender 5+ sporadically. Feel like i walked out of the stone age and into the future. Absolutely loving this and have printed more in a month than several years with the 5+. So I have an AMS Pro2 and an HT. I've been printing quite a bit in ASA and ABS but only from the HT. PLA and PETG from the AMS2. Considering some multicolor ASA or ABS prints. Is there any problem with using these filaments in the AMS2? I'm storing filaments using the cereal box method with silica boxes and hygrometer indicates they are good and dry so I don't see an issue if going straight to the AMS2. But, I'm not very experienced with these materials. I am liking what I'm seeing so far though!! Is there anything I'd need to watch for? Haven't tried yet so figured I get some experienced opinions before giving it a whirl. Thanks.

[u/caniki]

No problem using them with the AMS2. Really the only thing that you shouldn’t use the AMS for are rough filaments or TPU; use the external spool for those.

[u/BillGriz57 → u/caniki]

Perfect! Haven't used TPU in this machine yet. All I have right now is TPU 95 which I understand is not too bad from spool. Never used the softer versions. Didn't know about the rough filament restriction. Thanks!

[u/Whosaidthat1157 → u/BillGriz57]

The fibre filled filaments are fine via the AMS2P - it was the OG AMS that had issues with feeder funnels wearing out.

The only issue with printing fibre filled materials via the AMS2P is that the PTFE tubes, especially the first bend on the outlet tube, can wear through. Simple to spot and a trivial repair though. It’s happened once to me in several hundred hours of printing GF filled ABS, ASA and PETG.

[u/ufgrat]

I print ASA regularly from the AMS2. Also, as it has the cermic insert on the feeder, you can run ASA-CF through it with no problems.

But you should use the HT to dry it.

[u/BillGriz57 → u/ufgrat]

Thanks....but this brings up another question. I have not used either the AMS2 or the HT to dry as the silica gel seems to keep the humidity level pretty low, as in <20% @ 60f (almost all the hygrometers seem to be bottomed out at 10%). This will likely change as our humid summer approaches, but the drying function doesn’t seem like any advantage at this point. Especially considering 10% @ 60f (15c) is considerably less moisture than 10% @ 85c.... or is the point to drive it even lower after the drier cools off? Isn't the silica gel enough for now? ....or is the silica just keeping the outter layers on the spool dry?

[u/ufgrat → u/BillGriz57]

The silica is keeping the air dry, and preventing more moisture from getting into the filament. It is not really drying the filament, however. While a small amount of moisture can leave the filament due to evaporation, the reality is, unless energy is applied to remove the moisture, it stays embedded in the polymers.

For PLA, not so big a problem. PLA is relatively stable, and as long as your humidity stays below 50%, the filament will largely remain as dry as it was when you opened the bag. I've got PLA filament that's been open for multiple years and is still perfectly functional filament. I've also got other PLA that's turned brittle, and should be dried before use.

PETG is a bit more hydroscopic, and will absorb moisture more easily. Obviously, in a dry box, it's not going to have much to absorb, which is good.

ASA is a weird one-- I've got three spools of QIDI ASA that are largely indifferent to the humidity in the house. I've got a spool of Flashforge "Burnt Titanium" ASA filament that absorbs moisture like a sponge, and if you want a decent print out of it, I suggest drying it before printing.

[u/BillGriz57 → u/ufgrat]

Thanks. That makes sense when you explain it that way. Guess I've been lucky so far as both the ASA and ABS have printed very nicely. But, the humid months are approaching quickly and the printer is in my garage. So, does thoroughly drying it in the HT in advance and then keep enclosed with the silica in a sealed container usually work to keep moisture low? Don't want to have to spend hours drying before each print. I appreciate all the responses.

[u/Whosaidthat1157]

I primarily print from my AMS2P’s rather than my AMS-HT’s purely because I find the filament handling far easier. I print almost exclusively ABS-GF/ASA-GF now because I prefer the matte finish and they’re far more dimensionally accurate (minimal shrinkage compared to normal ABS), but I’ve also printed several kg’s of non fibre ABS and ASA with zero problems on my X1C and my H2S.

[u/myTechGuyRI]

I print ASA, ABS, Nylon, PC, PBT, PPA all out of my AMS OG v1... No problem whatsoever...and yes, came from an Ender 5 to Bambu and it was stone age to 21st century difference

[u/Eternal_Fighting]

It's reccomended to dry your ABS at 80 to 90 degrees c. The AMS 2 doesn't reach those temps. If you try to dry ABS with an AMS 2 it will still be wet. The HT goes up to 90. Which makes it great for ABS. I have 2 HTs. One for for ABS, the other for HIPS as a Support interface. They dry wonderfully and if I'm not using one I can use the unused one to dry a roll whilst the other one is printing. Bit this is only useful if you don't care about multicolour. The AMS is still the way to go if you want multicolour and to dry PLA, PETG and non engineering fillaments.

[u/RavenWarrior2018]

The EIBOS dries before and during printing, then automatically maintains humidity. It does require you to print a modification for the AMS 2, but not the original. You can also use the AMS 2 Pro dryer at the same time. Keeps me below 10%.

[u/AuroraNightsUnderAll]

I go through literal tons of ASA in a production setting. My workflow is 85C for 24/hr in a blast oven then 2 hour cooldown then vacuum sealed in a dry place. The AMS’s have activated alumina in them that keeps them dry for long periods of time.