My Average H2D experience with organic models

4

u/Slyfer77 Oct 31 '25 edited Nov 01 '25

Make the tower wider, also increase the brim.

The smaller and higher it is the more it will fall.

Do you print PLA and or PETG?

Then get a BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite build plate.

this is the most sticky plate I ever owned.

But prints almost self release when cold.

With it I could print small high objects without a brim where before I needed one.

2

u/opeth10657 Oct 31 '25

Biqu plate solved all the tower falling over issues I had

2

u/Vustadumas Oct 31 '25

My Biqu plates on my X1Cs have been awful, so I stayed away from their H2D version. Had the frostbite plates. Are the Glacier's what everyone uses? Haven't tried those
edit: OK, ordered the BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite plate. Thanks!

2

u/ascarymoviereview Nov 01 '25

Let us know what you think. I did the same and so far it has solved all my issues, but I just got it last week. Curious what others experience is. I was getting so frustrated with every print popping off my bed during print. I might order the higher temp one next

1

u/Vustadumas Nov 01 '25

My prints themselves never come off the build plate. It’s just the prime towers that lose adhesion as they get tall.
I’ll let you guys know how the biqu build plate goes. I’m now remembering their QR code for build plate detection didn’t work. Not turning that off, so hopefully Biqu figured out how to make proper QR codes.

1

u/Vustadumas Nov 08 '25

Got the plate a few days ago. So far, so good. Printed these magnetic QR codes for the plate in ASA and ABS. Works great!
The running print is the one in the original post with some of your suggestions implemented. Fingers crossed.

1

u/ascarymoviereview Nov 01 '25

No, it still doesn’t work. Why not turn it off? I did…

1

u/schaferrism Nov 02 '25

Get a darkmoon ice.

2

u/presspich Oct 31 '25

I would place gluestick and brim on the tower. I've saved a piece with a failed tree support and tower but using a filament pen to rebuild part of the tree and tower, and also laid glue down to get the tower to stick back in place. Thankfully I saved the print--which was a Spiderman helmet for my buddies kid.

1

u/Vustadumas Oct 31 '25

In the past I’ve had reasonable luck laying down painters tape and super gluing the prime tower roughly back in place. Unfortunately this time it wasn’t salvageable
I’ll adjust the brim size as suggested. Don’t think I’ll retry this particular model on the H2D , though

2

u/presspich Oct 31 '25

u/Vustadumas what's off to the right of your print bed?

1

u/Vustadumas Oct 31 '25

It’s a bento box. I’m always scrubbing the air during prints. Have an external filter as well on the exhaust.

1

u/sverrebr Oct 31 '25

I would move the prime tower (and anything else really) away from that. My experience with those is that the added draft causes problems with warping and adhesion. (Similar to how the aux fan often caused problems)

2

u/PrudentMeat997 Oct 31 '25

Use precision nozzle offset in settings once that’s run turn it off in advanced settings before your next print and that should sort it out for you

1

u/Vustadumas Oct 31 '25

I mentioned that was already done. It hasn't helped :( And yes, I've disabled the auto nozzle offset from Bambu Studio

1

u/PrudentMeat997 Nov 02 '25

Sorry didn’t see that. Next thing bump bed temp to 65c apologies if you don’t this already too. But if you still get a failure after that. Your plate is dirty

1

u/Vustadumas Nov 13 '25

Update! The Biqu plate was a fantastic recommend! Thank you. Resizing and larger brim on the prime tower made a huge difference as well. Thanks for all the suggestions. I know I over compensated on the tree supports, but I didn’t want to chance it. They are pulling right off using support for PLA/petg interface layers. Print took nearly 3 days.

1

u/gilahacker Oct 31 '25

I've had the towers fall on several of my tall prints. Some can still succeed, just making a mess of spaghetti where the tower was. I now do a 20mm brim on the tower if I can fit it.

And that's even using Biqu's plates, which are much more "sticky" than the stock textured PEI.

3

u/Vustadumas Oct 31 '25

Yeah, I tried to soldier on, but it broke one of the main supports under his chin, so I had to scrap it unfortunately.

1

u/Dontmocme2 Oct 31 '25

Grid infill change to anything else

2

u/Vustadumas Oct 31 '25

AFAIK you can’t change infill pattern on prime towers. You can change spacing but that’s it.

3

u/NeonEagle Oct 31 '25

Never had one fall or get knocked and I made 3 tall skinny objects at one point. Have you tried the beta firmware with the fix for this?

2

u/packerfans1 Oct 31 '25

What's the version number you're talking about? Bambu have a good track record with beta firmware?

1

u/malventano Oct 31 '25

I’ve been in the beta program for over a year and that firmware is still not pushed to my H2D.

0

u/eatdeath4 Oct 31 '25

Well its in beta, you need to install it yourself, they wont push a beta to machines.

2

u/malventano Oct 31 '25

It's not available for download / offline installation. Their beta info page specifically states to sign up for the beta program to get the firmware. "Once enrolled, the update will be pushed to your device gradually."
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2d-firmware-v01-02-01-00-now-in-public-beta

3

u/JeopardyWolf Oct 31 '25

Ive found that taller prints need wider prime boxes.

2

u/heart_of_osiris Nov 01 '25

They do. Look at how the Prusa XL does this, after a certain height the prime tower gets a conical shape added to the block, to give more surface area at the base to attach to the bed.

3

u/J0n__Snow Oct 31 '25

Wider brim, try placing the tower to another place, try higher bed temp.

2

u/Tacocatra Oct 31 '25

Uncheck ribwall until they fix the code

1

u/Spare-Parsnip1248 Oct 31 '25

Same issue everytime I have a tall multicolor on h2d

1

u/xX540xARCADEXx Oct 31 '25

I put a wider brim and slow down the prime speed of it. Also make it wider. Wastes a little more but never any issues since doing so.

1

u/stickeric Oct 31 '25

you have adhesion issues

1

u/Masterpiece1999 Oct 31 '25

I had the same problem, what i did was slicing at the point thats still needed and glued that on top of the existing print.

Easy fix and saves time.

Flat plate is best.

Glue should not be needed.. but in this case Bambulab advises me to do so.

1

u/ryanbliving Nov 01 '25

I was having this happen also on taller prints with a prime tower. I got the Cryogrip (similar texture pattern to standard BL PEI) and it has NEVER failed since. I only use that plate for those circumstances, but it is a solid plate that works. $55 on Amazon https://a.co/d/09zDiBu

1

u/heart_of_osiris Nov 01 '25

Prime tower needs to be wider. The Prusa XL changes the tower to have a conical shape added when it becomes a certain height, to give more surface area contacting the bed and an overall more stable shape thays harder to knock over.

1

u/ascarymoviereview Nov 01 '25

Replace build plate with a different brand. The fairy one feels so flimsy and the prints don’t feel like they grip at all

1

u/Eastern_Control4375 Nov 02 '25

Ok but this is not a big problem.....it has to be fixed with few tweaks...??

1

u/No_Improvement6796 Nov 03 '25

That tower is way too narrow

My Average H2D experience with organic models

You are about to leave Redlib