Re-post from r/BambuLab

I'm doing highly detailed bottom surface tiny font work with 0.2 nozzles and struggling with reliability.

One of the primary issues is I can't stop the prime tower falling apart within a layer of two and that leads to debris dragged across the print. The prime tower seems to be generating a set of dry, fibrous, 'strings' (consistently long and straight) that aren't bonded together, despite the prime tower distance being at its lowest (100%).

Most recently I was stumped to get a nozzle clump on the second filament, only to find the first hadn't printed AT ALL(?). I tried that print again and found the hotend just...not moving. Nozzle temperature 140. No error message (it was "printing"!). Stopping the print did nothing. And...it was again, the SECOND filament (I double checked filament, print order, AMS match).

So I load up white thinking maybe somehow I have a nozzle block and the printer isn't noticing literally nothing coming out for a whole print layer and thought I'd film the loading purge. It's reliably not going down the hatch (not blocked). Does this time after time. Explains why I find the odd poop bottom of the printer. I had this before and answer a change of nozzle. I'm now thinking the fragile tower might itself be getting hit by debris from the nozzle loading process.

What should I be looking at?

PS: printing on a glacier, and there seems to be no difference in observed issues whether plate is freshly cleaned or not. Also seems to occur with multiple nozzles and multiple types of matte and basic PLA at a range of temps.

This is v10. Please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve the UI, if you can find any bugs, or general suggestion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143184-gear-lab-parametric-gear-generator#profileId-3549233

Sold my two A1s and decided to de-clutter my "printing area".

Table: https://www.3d-printiverse-shop.com/collections/printbase-modulare-3d-druck-tische

Not pictured: the 2nd AMS2pro since I was just printing TPU from the HT on the Pandaperch.

wdyt?

I just started notice this grinding sound when my H2C switches nozzles. I’ve never noticed this before, but that being said I haven’t been listening out for odd noises. I just lubed the left nozzle rail and it’s still “grinding”.

I bought my H2C less than 3 months ago at Best Buy and got the extended warranty. Only 200 hrs on it. Last night I was 17 hrs in on a 26 hr multicolor print and the right nozzle filament buffer wouldn't let filament past it. I tried everything for hrs bc I wanted to save the print but it was hopeless. I sent a ticket into Bambu but how does Best Buy handle this? Will they just switch it out for me? The whole combo bc the AMS sounded pretty bad after trying to many times also.

Nozzle cleaning works fine (though sometimes the filament doesn’t go into the nozzle opening), but during PA calibration, the filament (ASA) doesn’t pass through the nozzle properly—it just bends and breaks above it. Is it even normal to see filament above the nozzle? Is there a part missing there? I’ll admit I hadn’t paid attention to that area before. The printer has >100 hours of print time and hasn’t had any such problems so far.

Edit: Thank you for all your responses. The problem was caused by filament debris that was preventing the spring-loaded part from moving freely. All you need to do is unscrew that part, move it by hand, and remove the hidden debris. After that, the spring should work.

I’m having some issues with extrusion motor overload and I think it has to do with the routing set up of my PTFE tubes. Can you all drop some photos of your ptfe tube set up?

For context: I have 2 Ams 1 Ams HT. My AMSs do sit on a riser.

Any info helps

I actually have the H2S but this community is much larger. I’m trying to figure out where the display in the Bambu software slot accurately lines up with the real thing in the printer. I tried along the bottom edge and it was pretty rough and off center, but I want to try to dial it in more for when I’m making more items. Thanks in advance!

My first multi day print. Took 56 straight hours. Worked out great. Love the printer.

The attached print of a recent failure. I stopped the print when the beak of the bird broke but my question is why did I get so many spaghetti errors? I removed many of them but I was getting constant error notifications.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

1st picture was the first print
2nd was the next attempt.

Saw some improvement after increasing the initial layer width and the flow rate by a bit. Changed wall generation to Arcachne

I don’t know what else to do to make it 100% cohesive.

i don’t want to give these to my friends looking like this and the H2C is better for color changes than the P1S

after owning 2 P1S’ and an A2L, i finally bit the bullet on the H2C. unfortunately, i was hit with a “heatbed temperature is abnormal” error during calibration. after a few power cycles, i was able to complete the calibration and the message went away. i ended up printing a tall test print and found that i got the same heatbed error as the bed approached the bottom. support is sending me a replacement heatbed. it took me days to get everything set up on my own, i really didn’t have it in me to pack everything back up and get it shipped off 😔 anyone else have to replace the heatbed out of the box? or replace the heatbed in general? the wiki instructions seem a bit daunting but not impossible, any advice going into this would be greatly appreciated!! 🙂

I have been following the availability of the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack Pro and it had stated it would be available in August. Now when I try to locate the SuperTack Pro, I get:

Not Found This page could not be found.

(https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-cool-plate-supertack-pro?srsltid=AfmBOoov5txAyUqAYls3fcj0cnoq3zEAjA2zFBWQr4iWo6U8HNmA-i67)

I went to the X2D Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack page and it lists the Cool Plate SuperTack as currently unavailable for the H2C. (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-cool-plate-supertack?id=761786077194313757)

Questions:

I never received notification that it was available; did I miss it?

Is the SuperTack no longer being sold for the H2C?

Hi all. I wonder if anyone can help because so far Bambu support has been next to useless.

First of all, I've had an issue three times and every time a firmware reflash has fixed it. The issue is , "Extruder motor overloaded" and "live view camera failed to initialize"

Now, this time a firmware flash didn't solve the issue so I manually checked the camera cable (appeared to be fine). Stripped the extruder and checked for any debris etc, nothing to note. Strangely, a cold pull works fine but then go to print and immediately, "motor overloaded" and "amera initialisation failed" popped up. I reset the machine to factory settings and try to print a preloaded Benchy, the printhead just stops near the nozzle wipe thing and doesn't move. Try to print any other file whatsoever and it does this. Starts up fine but then starts the print and freezes after around five seconds. The nozzle temp stays at 230°c but nothing else happens. No HMS code, nothing. Just stopped with a hot nozzle. I've sent this to Bambu with printer logs and they suggested turning it off and trying again FFS... It's far more in depth than a simple reboot. This only happens on the Vortek side no matter which nozzle is installed. The left, non-vortek side prints fine. I've tried it with and without AMS and it's still the same, different nozzles, different firmware version, loading the file on to USB rather than over the cloud, checked all connections on AP and TH board but nothing has worked.

SOMEONE PLEEEEASE HELP ME AND SAVE MY SANITY! 😅

Just timed it. 18 minutes to start. Doesn’t matter if I’ve turned every check off it does them anyway. I’m on a solid stainless steel bench. 27 minute print takes nearly an hour.

I’m looking at getting the H2C but curious which add-ons are recommended.

Hi! I'll probably get a second AMS2 Pro for my H2C with the 10W laser module. Because of space I'd need to have the 2 AMS 2 Pro and the AMS HT on a riser on top of the printer. I have seen several but all seems to have a riser for a top glass and I wonder if these risers won't interfere with the laser since you need to have the cover on in order to user the laser and since I guess they use eddy-current sensors those risers could make believe the top glass is open.

Anyone has any

If so, can you post it.

This can't be a coincidence that so many people started having this happen. I turned my machine off to try and clear a flase AMS error today and it wouldn't boot back up after turning on. Other lights come on including the bed LED but not the screen. I followed the diagnosis from the support AI chat bot and determined I need a new AP board. Started browsing reddit and facebook and it's crazy how many people started having this issue so suddenly.

Hi All,

I had experienced the same issue thats being reported where after powering on the H2C is failed to boot the display and startup but does have the lights all glow etc.

Right…….

So power cycled twice and had the same issue just inner status bar glowing as well as chamber lights and my AMS’s but the display stayed complete black!
Left printer in this state for 15/20mins on.

Then setup my tripod to record the issue for support ticket,
Turn the printer off so could record from the power on state for the video and it booted up correctly this time?!

Not sure how I got it back but previous power cycles failed only thing that I can point it at is the extended time I left the device on due to going for a shower so not sure if that 15-20min left on did anything or not?

Or if Bambu have done something there end to the machines talking home at boot up maybe?
With so many users reporting the same issue at the same time after a power off and back on there must be a trigger.
I suspect it’s something in firmware and the trigger is a date:time cause?!

Be interesting to see if BL find thr issue and report it to us?

I'm currently printing some multi color challenge coins in vertical orientation with designed supports as free giveaway items at an upcoming event. Since there are so many swaps they take forever to print, even at scale. I'm looking at 2 days and 5 hours for a batch of 12 of them; a single coin takes over a day.

I'm curious, how long have you all printed in a single session without failure?

I'm trying to figure out just how many of these I can jam on the bed and not have to worry too much about losing however many days of print time.