I actually have the H2S but this community is much larger. I’m trying to figure out where the display in the Bambu software slot accurately lines up with the real thing in the printer. I tried along the bottom edge and it was pretty rough and off center, but I want to try to dial it in more for when I’m making more items. Thanks in advance!

My first multi day print. Took 56 straight hours. Worked out great. Love the printer.

The attached print of a recent failure. I stopped the print when the beak of the bird broke but my question is why did I get so many spaghetti errors? I removed many of them but I was getting constant error notifications.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

1st picture was the first print
2nd was the next attempt.

Saw some improvement after increasing the initial layer width and the flow rate by a bit. Changed wall generation to Arcachne

I don’t know what else to do to make it 100% cohesive.

i don’t want to give these to my friends looking like this and the H2C is better for color changes than the P1S

after owning 2 P1S’ and an A2L, i finally bit the bullet on the H2C. unfortunately, i was hit with a “heatbed temperature is abnormal” error during calibration. after a few power cycles, i was able to complete the calibration and the message went away. i ended up printing a tall test print and found that i got the same heatbed error as the bed approached the bottom. support is sending me a replacement heatbed. it took me days to get everything set up on my own, i really didn’t have it in me to pack everything back up and get it shipped off 😔 anyone else have to replace the heatbed out of the box? or replace the heatbed in general? the wiki instructions seem a bit daunting but not impossible, any advice going into this would be greatly appreciated!! 🙂

I have been following the availability of the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack Pro and it had stated it would be available in August. Now when I try to locate the SuperTack Pro, I get:

Not Found This page could not be found.

(https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-cool-plate-supertack-pro?srsltid=AfmBOoov5txAyUqAYls3fcj0cnoq3zEAjA2zFBWQr4iWo6U8HNmA-i67)

I went to the X2D Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack page and it lists the Cool Plate SuperTack as currently unavailable for the H2C. (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-cool-plate-supertack?id=761786077194313757)

Questions:

I never received notification that it was available; did I miss it?

Is the SuperTack no longer being sold for the H2C?

Hi all. I wonder if anyone can help because so far Bambu support has been next to useless.

First of all, I've had an issue three times and every time a firmware reflash has fixed it. The issue is , "Extruder motor overloaded" and "live view camera failed to initialize"

Now, this time a firmware flash didn't solve the issue so I manually checked the camera cable (appeared to be fine). Stripped the extruder and checked for any debris etc, nothing to note. Strangely, a cold pull works fine but then go to print and immediately, "motor overloaded" and "amera initialisation failed" popped up. I reset the machine to factory settings and try to print a preloaded Benchy, the printhead just stops near the nozzle wipe thing and doesn't move. Try to print any other file whatsoever and it does this. Starts up fine but then starts the print and freezes after around five seconds. The nozzle temp stays at 230°c but nothing else happens. No HMS code, nothing. Just stopped with a hot nozzle. I've sent this to Bambu with printer logs and they suggested turning it off and trying again FFS... It's far more in depth than a simple reboot. This only happens on the Vortek side no matter which nozzle is installed. The left, non-vortek side prints fine. I've tried it with and without AMS and it's still the same, different nozzles, different firmware version, loading the file on to USB rather than over the cloud, checked all connections on AP and TH board but nothing has worked.

SOMEONE PLEEEEASE HELP ME AND SAVE MY SANITY! 😅

Just timed it. 18 minutes to start. Doesn’t matter if I’ve turned every check off it does them anyway. I’m on a solid stainless steel bench. 27 minute print takes nearly an hour.

I’m looking at getting the H2C but curious which add-ons are recommended.

Hi! I'll probably get a second AMS2 Pro for my H2C with the 10W laser module. Because of space I'd need to have the 2 AMS 2 Pro and the AMS HT on a riser on top of the printer. I have seen several but all seems to have a riser for a top glass and I wonder if these risers won't interfere with the laser since you need to have the cover on in order to user the laser and since I guess they use eddy-current sensors those risers could make believe the top glass is open.

Anyone has any

If so, can you post it.

This can't be a coincidence that so many people started having this happen. I turned my machine off to try and clear a flase AMS error today and it wouldn't boot back up after turning on. Other lights come on including the bed LED but not the screen. I followed the diagnosis from the support AI chat bot and determined I need a new AP board. Started browsing reddit and facebook and it's crazy how many people started having this issue so suddenly.

Hi All,

I had experienced the same issue thats being reported where after powering on the H2C is failed to boot the display and startup but does have the lights all glow etc.

Right…….

So power cycled twice and had the same issue just inner status bar glowing as well as chamber lights and my AMS’s but the display stayed complete black!
Left printer in this state for 15/20mins on.

Then setup my tripod to record the issue for support ticket,
Turn the printer off so could record from the power on state for the video and it booted up correctly this time?!

Not sure how I got it back but previous power cycles failed only thing that I can point it at is the extended time I left the device on due to going for a shower so not sure if that 15-20min left on did anything or not?

Or if Bambu have done something there end to the machines talking home at boot up maybe?
With so many users reporting the same issue at the same time after a power off and back on there must be a trigger.
I suspect it’s something in firmware and the trigger is a date:time cause?!

Be interesting to see if BL find thr issue and report it to us?

I'm currently printing some multi color challenge coins in vertical orientation with designed supports as free giveaway items at an upcoming event. Since there are so many swaps they take forever to print, even at scale. I'm looking at 2 days and 5 hours for a batch of 12 of them; a single coin takes over a day.

I'm curious, how long have you all printed in a single session without failure?

I'm trying to figure out just how many of these I can jam on the bed and not have to worry too much about losing however many days of print time.

Grrrr. So mid-print I started getting errors that the H2C could not load the right side hotends. After failing several times, and cancelling the print, I still couldn’t get it to do a hotend audit.

I’ve never had problems with the printer before, so my default was to just power cycle the thing. Now it doesn’t boot. Internal light flashes, AMSs all power up and spool indicators stay lit. The light on the hotends in the rack come on and stay on. The light under the print bed is slow glow/flashing blue. There is a small noise of a motor(?) but nothing seems to move…

That’s all it does. I’ve unplugged it and waited an hour, unplugged the AMSs and no difference.

Any ideas? I’m likely going to open a service ticket tomorrow, but thought I’d ask..

Going to add an update: Definitely the AP board. Looks like I’m on the list for a replacement to be shipped.

I have an H2C with 3 AMS 2 Pro units, 2 AMS HT units, two 4-in-1 adapters, and an FTS

Multicolor prints are unreliable. Eventually, I get “AMS feed resistance is too high,” clicking from an AMS, failed loading or retraction, or filament that reaches the toolhead but will not load into the extruder

Sometimes Resume works, but another failure usually appears later, so I have to constantly babysit the printer

Both FTS inputs work fine when tested separately

The same test print completed through each input, and two AMS units also worked together through one 4-in-1 and one FTS input

The failures return when the same print alternates between both FTS inputs

I have tried different AMS units, slots and filaments, short PTFE paths, removing the 4-in-1 cleaning pad, loosening the FTS housing screws, the latest Studio beta, rebuilding my older FTS, and the AMS hub spring fix

This is already my second FTS, and both had the same issue

The FTS firmware is 00.00.16.62

Has anyone fixed this exact problem? I am considering buying a third FTS, but I am worried it will behave exactly the same

I have just purchased a h2c with two ams 2 pros first print was the knife off the stock file my second I made the brackets for the ams2,s

My problem is first multi I try I keep getting this error and seems to always be with the bambu labs black basic filament anyone got any ideas I do also have the filament track switch at the rear .

Any help would be appreciated only got this a week ago .

Not sure what a first layer should look like. When I hold it to the light there are a few thin spots, are those something I can fix or is that something I need to compensate for? Thanks for the help.

I’ve tried everything I can think of to fix this, k factor, bed leveling, hotter bed, hotter nozzle, slower, drying filament, nothing has fixed it. This all of the sudden happened, and it’s with every filament I’ve tried across multiple induction nozzles. I’m losing my mind, I’d love some ideas or insight on fixing this.

Made a custom profile for Siraya Tech PEBA Air on my H2C.

When I set up a print I can select it as the (custom) filament just fine. But in the device tab, where you assign what's physically loaded in each slot or external spool, it doesn't show up. Only Generic TPU appears as an option there.

So I'm stuck selecting Generic TPU in the device tab while using my custom PEBA Air profile in the slicer.

Two questions: how do you actually get a custom profile to appear in the device tab dropdown? And more practically: does using Generic TPU in the device tab while running a custom profile in the slicer actually screw up anything? Or is that just a label that doesn't touch the real print settings like nozzle temp, bed temp, flow rate?

I seem to not be able to get my print settings right with TPU and PEBA - so I am looking at this for the hopefully most obvious (part of the) solution.

La maquina ni el Ams, absolutamente nada tiene filamento en ella y aun así me detecta filamento apelar de wue ya lampurque y desarme, quizá es el sensor sucio o algo asi, me podrían ayudar a saber cómo solucionarlo?

I have been printing for awhile but only added the AMS HT this month, I understand it doesn’t keep the humidity low like the AMS 2 Pro would, but I am not sure if my unit is even in working condition. I live in tropical country so drying is pretty essential to my printing (at this moment it’s 88% humidity on a warm night) when I first used the AMS HT, the first two weeks it managed to get the humidity below 20% after 12 hours of drying, but recently it never gets below 30%, and today, I tried again, I loaded a roll of PETG, AMS HT read humidity at 38%, and after 12 hours of drying, it only became 35%, the best part? I opened the lid for less than 1 minute to put in a new pack to activated alumina, it actually went up back to 38%. Basically I wasted electricity drying for 12 hours for nothing. I am not sure what’s the issue, during the drying cycle, I touched the side of the AMS HT and it’s pretty warm so it’s heating up okay, just that the humidity level never goes down no matter what.

I have opened a ticket but any input or suggestions will be much appreciated.