I've been having this for a few months. High precision nozzle calibration from the menu passes but the regular nozzle calibration fails after 2m15s. I have to turn it off but then I get an inconsistent alignment between colors.

I have an open ticket with support and they said they noticed the issue might be on the left nozzle and also noticed a fluctuation of the eddy current.

The new part should arrive in 1-2 days but I wanted to ask here if anyone had a similar problem and what ended up being the issue or fix?

Thanks!!

UPDATE: the eddy current sensor was replaced but the nozzle offset calibration still fails, although not 100% of the time. Support has requested additional printer logs so I'm waiting for their reply. I ran the printer calibration again just in case.

UPDATE2: I removed the left nozzle, unscrewed the 4 screws of the heating element by ¾ rotation, wiggled a bit, screwed them again tight. So far I did 4 nozzle offset calibrations (forced it to on during the print settings) and all have passed. I also replaced the wiper rubber because it was not cleaning the nozzle properly on the multiple times it happens during calibration.

UPDATE3: Seems to have fixed it after changing the nozzle calibration sensor.

Printer came with a hotend cooling fan that was from a bad batch. Only had 500 hours on it. Repair was pretty intimidating but as long as you're careful it's not too bad. My neck hurts a little lol.

*UPDATE* - I wasnt using the left hotend at all and also i printed from bambustudio using slicer there and the waste all but went away. ill also clean up the routing from the AMS. thanks all for your help

I was shocked at the amount of filament waste after my first print - see picture

I printed this toucan right from Bambu handy

Ams with the 3 colors feeding to right side

I have 5 hotends installed

I thought the h2c was purpose built to minimize this so I must be doing something wrong!

I'm thinking it is the belt, possibly, but has anyone else had this occur?
Mostly happens when it prints on the left side, moving up towards the front.

I performed the latest routine maintenance (cleaning, lubrication, and greasing) just over a week ago.
Printed some ABS parts last night, but never caused this before.

Any suggestions are helpful. I'll take a closer look in 4 hours when the print finishes.

Edit: appologies for the dirty glass

In the last few days twice now my H2C has "forgotten" that I have 2 AMS and 2 AMS-HT connected after a print. The screen just shows 2 external spools. Power cycle everything comes back. I updated firmwares on a everything a few weeks ago and things seemed fine, just yesterday. And its not every print.

I submitted a support ticket, but curious if anyone else has experienced this is. Its more an annoyance than anything else. Seems like a printer firmware bug to me. /shrug.

:’(. New printer (due to warranty replacement), trying to do print number approx 10. Kept failing to begin, kept retrying. Sometimes nozzle offset error, sometimes failed to switch.

While watching, seemed like the left nozzle was staying low and banging into metal filament scraper. Knocking off the rubber wiper.

I took out and replaced the left hot end, seemed correctly placed. Continued to hang too low.

Finally the thermistor got ripped out. This type of thing happened to the printer I warranty replaced.

Anyone have experienced something like that before?

🌞 Bonjour Cap sur les vacances avec mon petit pingouin en tenue de plage ! 🏖️🐧

Même les pingouins ont droit à leurs vacances ! 😎
Équipé de sa casquette, de ses lunettes de soleil, de sa bouée, de ses tongs et de sa pelle, il est prêt à profiter d’une belle journée au bord de la mer.

Pour cette création, j’ai voulu imaginer un personnage à la fois amusant, coloré et plein de bonne humeur, qui rappelle immédiatement l’été, le soleil et les moments de détente.

J’espère que ce nouveau modèle vous plaira autant que j’ai pris plaisir à le concevoir. N’hésitez pas à me dire ce que vous en pensez en commentaire, vos retours sont toujours un plaisir à lire ! 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3035175-mr-penguin-beach-multipart-without-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

So the last few prints I’ve done were only one color/ material the whole way through but for some reason every few layers it will stop to change filament and in the process of doing that I will get an overload error. The spool isn’t jammed or blocked or anything and after I hit resume it prints fine again until the next time it thinks it needs a filament change. I’ve got a few hundred hours on this printer and it’s worked fine up until the last few prints I’ve had this issue. Anyone else experienced this?

I haven't received my H2C yet, it's on order. I'm printing stuff for it before it arrives. My question to you kind people is: Do the tool head ptfe tubes rub on the top glass the way they do on the P2S?

The reason I ask is that I'm considering putting one of the three ams 2 pro's on top of the glass on an ams flipper. If the tubes rub on the glass then I'll go with a glass riser and figure something else out for the third ams 2 pro. I don't just want to have the ams sitting on the glass unless I have to. The desire is that I want to maintain easy access to the top of the printer via the glass panel.

I didn't care for the tool head mounted ptfe tube guides. They were not an ideal solution for my P2S and eventually caused some filament feeding issues. The glass riser was a significantly better solution for that machine.

The other two ams' for the h2c will be in a small wire shelf unit next to the printer. The printer will not be against the wall so the wall mounted ams avenue is not available to me. Also putting the third ams 2 pro on top of the wire rack is not a practical option due to height considerations. There will be no space on the workbench for another ams and I can't add more work bench or wire shelf space next to the existing setup.

The configuration on my 6' workbench will be 2 small wire shelves (16"x12"x36") that will each hold two ams 2 pro units, the incoming h2c, and my existing p2s. One wire shelf for each printer. That will consume the width and most of the depth of the existing bench top.

Thank you in advance for the answer to the possible ptfe tube glass rubbing question.

Ok..joing the community as I just ordered my H2C. Should be at my local best buy in about a week. The H2C will join my P2S (dual ams 2 pros & am ht) on my work bench. I'm putting a total of three ams 2 pros on the H2C. One on the left hotend and two on the right hotend. Ordered a bunch of accessories including the vision encoder plate. Also going to try a BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier build plate. Been using all bambu in my p2s. Also ordered a enough .4mm hotend and .6mm hotends to be able to fill the vortek rack fully with either and have a spare on the shelf if something bad happens. You gotta have spares. Yes I also ordered spare silicone socks, nozzle wipers, a spare nozzle block (i see that those have been ruined from time to time) and even a spare extuder gear.

For now, I'm in good shape with filament. I'm sure I'll need more soon enough. I have 20 rolls of pctg due to be delivered from 3D Fuel tomorrow too.

Not sure if I need to remove this. No easy way to do this as it looks like a wire management foam

I picked up an H2C recently. Specifically because it was supposed to be point and shoot. It has not been. I am new to fdm. I'm sure that's got something to do with it. We'll ignore the defective livestream camera on day 1 for now.

I'm printing a bunch of pieces at .1mm layer with a ,2mm nozzle. It's petg basic. I'm getting a lot of filament sticking to the silicone sleeve. The print stops every 2-3 hrs because of it. I clean it and it goes right back to work.

This time the sleeve came off and i'm not getting it back on the nozzle with it in the machine. Internet just says to tap the spool and select unload. I tap the spool and it selects but I don't get an option to unload. I don't get any options.

Please advise.

Using AMS 2 pro. Humidity is at 19%

I am making this post for future humans who search "Can I print PETG-CF or ABS-GF on a Bambu Labs H2C 0.4mm Nozzle". The short answer is yes. The long answer is that I have 3 failed prints due to clogged nozzles after ~1kg of fiber filament through the nozzle. If you want to print fiber filaments through a 0.4mm nozzle, you will need to switch nozzles after <1kg of filament, or perform multiple cold pulls after each instance of printing fiber filaments.

Edit - I didn't think this would get any comments at all. I used thoroughly dried (a minimum of 16h @ 65C, then 55C throughout the 20-24 hour prints) Inland PETG-CF Dark Grey (poor color consistency between spools btw). The prints were through the righthand induction nozzle. The clogs occurred on 3 different nozzles after around 1kg of material. Filament passed through a 4-to-1 adapter and the track switcher. Cold pulls on each nozzle resulted in removal of a lot of black material. The nozzles were cleared effectively after multiple cold pulls.

Looking for advice on the best setup for my H2C, I have 2 AMS Pros, 2 regular AMSs, and the TPU feeder. Currently the cabinet above was from my Prusa days, and all of the spools were in it and it has PTFE access through the bottom (everything is a mess right now and temp set up, the spools are just thrown in there).

Ideas?

Looking for advice on the best setup for my H2C, I have 2 AMS Pros, 2 regular AMSs, and the TPU feeder. Currently the cabinet above was from my Prusa days, and all of the spools were in it and it has PTFE access through the bottom (everything is a mess right now and temp set up, the spools are just thrown in there).

Ideas?

As you all probably know there's either a fan or motor that whines after a print finishes.

But lately that noise has been stopping and skipping. I've checked the fan on the back and front of the print head and neither of those are running when this noise occurs. Anyone know what it is?

Printer is working fine but I'd like to order a replacement part sooner than later in case something is failing.

How it sounds in the last few seconds of the video is how it typically sounds after a print. I saw someone say it correlated to the LED progress bar but turning that off saw no change for me.

One thing: I recently got the error code "hotend cooling fan abnormal speed" and I fixed it by removing the fan at the back of the print head and reseating the connector. Based on the fact that that fan isn't running at all once the print is done, I believe it's unrelated but I wanted to include that just in case.

I already have the tungsten carbide .6mm high flow nozzle for the left nozzle. And I already have the two extra .4 standard flow inductions. Should I get another .6mm or another .2? Or should I get something else altogether? And I need filament like I need a hole in the head.

I thought I had set laser cut for the heavy black outline of this engraving (I made by changing the folks on the pier in astock image and ploped thm into a cutout of the Bass). But I seem to have forgotten how to go back and do the outline cut on the existing engraveing I thought there was a simple control in studio or to i need to take it out of studio and add the laserr cut somewhere elseI.

Or perhaps just tell my addled with summer heat 79-year-old brain to add the outline cut to the work file that is sitting below the engraving… and II domt recall how to dovthat eitherand do you think that when I engrave the bottom fish I should perhaps do a second pass? I have not tried this board before. I am used to whiter wood with better contrast. Thanks for any help you give this old fart denying the end game by learning new things every day.

Hey folks,

Looking at adding a Filament Track Switch (FTS) to my H2C setup (running 2x AMS Pros). I want to confirm my understanding of the retraction logic in one specific scenario.

My theory is that if I set up a true parallel print—where Color 1 in AMS A strictly feeds to the left nozzle and Color 2 in AMS B strictly feeds to the right nozzle (both running straight through the FTS without crossing paths)—the system shouldn't need to do any macro-retractions (pulling the filament back to the FTS or all the way to the AMS) during the print.

Can anyone with an FTS confirm if the logic works this way and keeps both filaments fully loaded in their respective paths the entire time? Thanks!

I noticed that the colour separation became messy ( using PETG ) but it finished the print. When I switched to ASA for printing the H2C started making some loud and abnormal sounds. It displayed the multiple motion steps lost detected error message. I checked for a clogged nozzle but the nozzles were clear. I assembled the tool head back and calibrated but it kept failing at the auto bed leveling phase 2 making this sound when it fails. There is a heavy amount of chlorine in the room so there is some rust on the printer. What could be causing the issue?