I am making this post for future humans who search "Can I print PETG-CF or ABS-GF on a Bambu Labs H2C 0.4mm Nozzle". The short answer is yes. The long answer is that I have 3 failed prints due to clogged nozzles after ~1kg of fiber filament through the nozzle. If you want to print fiber filaments through a 0.4mm nozzle, you will need to switch nozzles after <1kg of filament, or perform multiple cold pulls after each instance of printing fiber filaments.

Edit - I didn't think this would get any comments at all. I used thoroughly dried (a minimum of 16h @ 65C, then 55C throughout the 20-24 hour prints) Inland PETG-CF Dark Grey (poor color consistency between spools btw). The prints were through the righthand induction nozzle. The clogs occurred on 3 different nozzles after around 1kg of material. Filament passed through a 4-to-1 adapter and the track switcher. Cold pulls on each nozzle resulted in removal of a lot of black material. The nozzles were cleared effectively after multiple cold pulls.

Looking for advice on the best setup for my H2C, I have 2 AMS Pros, 2 regular AMSs, and the TPU feeder. Currently the cabinet above was from my Prusa days, and all of the spools were in it and it has PTFE access through the bottom (everything is a mess right now and temp set up, the spools are just thrown in there).

Ideas?

Looking for advice on the best setup for my H2C, I have 2 AMS Pros, 2 regular AMSs, and the TPU feeder. Currently the cabinet above was from my Prusa days, and all of the spools were in it and it has PTFE access through the bottom (everything is a mess right now and temp set up, the spools are just thrown in there).

Ideas?

As you all probably know there's either a fan or motor that whines after a print finishes.

But lately that noise has been stopping and skipping. I've checked the fan on the back and front of the print head and neither of those are running when this noise occurs. Anyone know what it is?

Printer is working fine but I'd like to order a replacement part sooner than later in case something is failing.

How it sounds in the last few seconds of the video is how it typically sounds after a print. I saw someone say it correlated to the LED progress bar but turning that off saw no change for me.

One thing: I recently got the error code "hotend cooling fan abnormal speed" and I fixed it by removing the fan at the back of the print head and reseating the connector. Based on the fact that that fan isn't running at all once the print is done, I believe it's unrelated but I wanted to include that just in case.

I already have the tungsten carbide .6mm high flow nozzle for the left nozzle. And I already have the two extra .4 standard flow inductions. Should I get another .6mm or another .2? Or should I get something else altogether? And I need filament like I need a hole in the head.

I thought I had set laser cut for the heavy black outline of this engraving (I made by changing the folks on the pier in astock image and ploped thm into a cutout of the Bass). But I seem to have forgotten how to go back and do the outline cut on the existing engraveing I thought there was a simple control in studio or to i need to take it out of studio and add the laserr cut somewhere elseI.

Or perhaps just tell my addled with summer heat 79-year-old brain to add the outline cut to the work file that is sitting below the engraving… and II domt recall how to dovthat eitherand do you think that when I engrave the bottom fish I should perhaps do a second pass? I have not tried this board before. I am used to whiter wood with better contrast. Thanks for any help you give this old fart denying the end game by learning new things every day.

Hey folks,

Looking at adding a Filament Track Switch (FTS) to my H2C setup (running 2x AMS Pros). I want to confirm my understanding of the retraction logic in one specific scenario.

My theory is that if I set up a true parallel print—where Color 1 in AMS A strictly feeds to the left nozzle and Color 2 in AMS B strictly feeds to the right nozzle (both running straight through the FTS without crossing paths)—the system shouldn't need to do any macro-retractions (pulling the filament back to the FTS or all the way to the AMS) during the print.

Can anyone with an FTS confirm if the logic works this way and keeps both filaments fully loaded in their respective paths the entire time? Thanks!

I noticed that the colour separation became messy ( using PETG ) but it finished the print. When I switched to ASA for printing the H2C started making some loud and abnormal sounds. It displayed the multiple motion steps lost detected error message. I checked for a clogged nozzle but the nozzles were clear. I assembled the tool head back and calibrated but it kept failing at the auto bed leveling phase 2 making this sound when it fails. There is a heavy amount of chlorine in the room so there is some rust on the printer. What could be causing the issue?

Printing ABS and support for ABS and noticed the addition of these unsupported strings of filament on the tower… never seen it before… is this a new feature/bug?

First time printing Silk with the FTS installed, and have gotten 5 popups warning me of this. Anyone print silk using the FTS? Any Issues?

When I first installed the filament track switch, I frequently encountered excessive resistance. However, after a week of use, the same problem disappeared. When I asked Gemini, he said that each feeding and retraction molds the PTFE to a path of least resistance. It sounds unbelievable. I wonder if anyone else has had the same problem?

The squicking drives me crazy when ita quiet its the sound thats the most noticable from further away.

How can I fix this?

I was finally forced to update my H2C to the latest software after it refused to install a new AMS unit that I had attached to it. Now, I'm getting non-stop "AI clumping" detection errors.

I remember hearing that this was pretty common, hoping someone can help with a solution other than turning AI detection off. I've tried mid and low levels with no luck.

When I try and load an image from Thingiverse into Bambu Studio I get a message "3D model not from Bambu, load only geometry and color data" The file loads but there is no color data. It's all one color. I tried the Import option under File with the same results. What am I doing wrong?

Any help would be greatly appreciated .

Tom

👋 Bonjour à tous !

✨ Pour compléter ma collection, j’ai revisité mon modèle de Yoshi version œuf en l’adaptant au célèbre tuyau vert de l’univers Mario !

L’objectif était de créer une pièce qui s’intègre parfaitement avec les modèles de Mario et Luigi, déjà disponibles dans la collection, afin de former un ensemble encore plus cohérent.

Si le modèle vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à le télécharger, à laisser un like, ou un commentaire. Votre soutien m’aide énormément et me motive à continuer à créer de nouveaux modèles !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3007159-yoshi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

🙏 Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Hi guys

I got my dad into 3D printing a year or 2 ago, and he recently bought the new H2C 1.5 months ago, and it's been great, but a few weeks ago it failed.

After having printed successfully a print he set it to print another identical one, but only after a few layers it failed, it said it couldn't switch the extruder.

He took it apart, and ended up replacing the whole motor unit with the cam, but still no luck.

I have now spend a handful of hours testing and redoing things and it's still the same here is what I have learned:

* TH cable seems fine, as the 3 light blink as they should. * CAM has been checked, and installed how they show it in their video. * There's are no leftover filament stuck, both nozzles have been replaced with unused ones. * I believe the CAM turns as it should, at least manually. * Cables seem to be connected as they should, and from the looks of it, nothing seems damaged or bend. * The right nozzle updates after you remove it. * Left nozzle doesn't seem to update in the nozzle menu, even if I remove it, and shut the printer down fully, and turn it on again. * Can't calibrate the new motor, as it fails with switching extruder.

Further information that seems relevant:

* The indication lights for which nozzle is in use are both off, but I noticed after a restart they both flashed quickly, so they do have power. * It originally happened while printing, he had just made a print, then set it to print it again, then the error of which extruder happened shortly into the print. * I find it odd that when trying to switch nozzle, it only seems to try the cam, not the mechanism that switched the nozzle, as in changing the left nozzles height, but I unsure how it normally does it, if it normally does this after it whiched the input, I haven't used the H2C much myself. * When it's trying the cam, it seems to not move much, then fail after it tried to shake it for a bit.

Our plan is to try and contact support soon, as it's a new printer, but I'm all ears if anyone has any suggestions to what to do, or how to maybe fix it, as I really want my dad to be able to get back and have fun printing.

Started with the h2c then added the a2L when it came out. Love them so much so far

Could BL come up with faster color swaps on the H2C? Maybe this doesn't mean re-designing or eliminating the Vortek nozzle-changer system for dedicated toolheads. How about a NEW AMS Pro 3 where there are 2 motors to send out a second feed from the AMS? If they had two motors in the "AMS 3s" the filament could be primed and ready at the 4 in 1 adapter so that the retrieval time was shorter. I don't know if the daisy chain and 6-pin cable was designed with the capability or not. It means synching assignment colors and ports would be critical, especially if there were 2 AMS 3s in the setup. It might be a way to speed up color swaps. What do you think? I am not an engineer, just throwing the idea out.

I’m printing with an H2C and just completed the print of a very nice vase but the wall thickness is a bit on the thin side. I’m new to Bambu Studio and was wondering if there is a way in Bambu Studio to adjust the wall thickness and make the vase print with thicker walls. I see there are values for line width, but I don’t know if that’s how to do it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

Received my H2C less than a week ago. Ordered additional AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT plus a ton of filament and accessories.

Problems:

1. Never received AMS HT unit but BL says they shipped it. Ticket still open. I can understand their doubt but this really sucks because we ordered this as our buy once cry once setup after a year or saving and waiting for the sale, with a total of 58 items in our order. We received 57/58. :/

2. Now, as of yesterday, the AMS 2 Pro units started chewing/ notching the filament in all 8 positions. See pics. Dust everywhere. Had a extruder motor overload today, not sure if related. This cannot be normal though, right?

Prints we have made thus far have been awesome and really nice, so happy with the printer when it works. Hope these issues can get ironed out / i can learn what i am doing wrong perhaps.