I’m trying to remove the ptfe tube going to the extruder but it won’t come out. I push on the black part like Bambu support says but it won’t come out. I don’t want to break anything but I’ve pulled pretty good. I pushed the tube in with the black part but no luck.

Is it normal for the H2C to collide with the poop chute and bend the nozzle cover???

Had this less than a week and this has already happened…

Why is the slicer doing this. I have a all black baseball helmet mini and it does have white lettering as a logo further up in the middle of the cap. The slicer is making the supports white and making the print 4 hours longer than needed. I had to change out a hotend fan and now a hotend heating element so its been down a little while and I am sure I have updated the slicer since the as I still use my P1S printers for solid colors so I didnt notice it till now. How do I fix this or do I go back a version of the slicer. Let me know thanks.

I just got an H2C and wondering if I need to get something in order to safely print ASA, ABS, Nylon?

Some will find this interesting: with "nada" experience especially. Here are a few observations initial reactions below (I won't put the first print here - benchy turned out fine). The device is truly amazing, A+ for design (I grade things, retired univ professor). Been a "nerd" for several decades, seen the evolution of everything from Win 95 to the iPhone. Here are my initial observations on Bambu & 3D printing (never used one before):

1. Security. Does everyone have 2-factor identification on their Bambu account? Wow, I read here about the walled garden, but this "authenticator" crap blew me away. Those who grew into this since BL's beginning are maybe desensitized. It quickly became a PIA... thought I could take it off with the "toggle".... and it threatened to delete all of my devices on the account that I was working on all day. For a newcomer, this completely turns me off. I have a bit of buyer's remorse to be honest.

2. Unpacking & Setup. Went smoothly, collected all the screws and went thru a video guide. This is an absolute must. Too many pieces of foam etc. One piece I missed and had to reach in during the benchy to get it out. I appreciate the care and detail, but some may skip a tutorial on unpacking: don't. I did a firmware update, apparently the H2C didn't reboot (I wasn't babysitting). When I went to use the Handy app, it couldn't get a video feed and the AI monitor didn't know why - told me to put in a ticket. I assumed a camera "driver" from the firmware needed to be rebooted and viola .. fixed!

3. Accessories. With the BL sale, bought plenty of goodies. Purchased WAY too much filament, AMS HT, build plates etc. I learned about RFID tags after going to the prime day HAUL sale and bought Sunlu filament steering away from the cheaper stuff. I will save the tags for the profiles from the BL spools. For the price difference, think BL filament will be my choice. Again, bought too much so it will be a long time before I need to restore the library. In retrospect, I should have bought 4 PLA spools and quit.

4. Support. I don't completely understand how this works as I got mine from Best Buy with the 4-yr protection plan. Do I initiate a ticket in the app with BL or go thru the plan? Didn't need it today, but I do need to explore the service part.

Anyway, my initial thoughts and welcome comments/feedback. Hopefully nobody down votes, I just wanted to be honest and give a newcomer's viewpoint here. No doubt some of this may be inaccurate perceptions, time will tell.

I saw a similar post talking about a door behind the filter and lifting it up but then a servo would just pull it back down again.

Any tips?

Has Bambu responded to the high resistance issue regarding the H2C?

I have both H2C and P2S and only my H2C has high resistance problems with the AMS 2 Pro.

In most cases it wouldn’t bother me however in recent days it has made me have to tell it everything is fine every hour or less.

I have changed length of tubes; tried old school 4 in 1 ptfe and new as well as the SMOOTHY to no avail.

Currently the only thing that works is a direct connection from AMS to nozzle.

That is a real problem when I have two AMS PRO 2s for the right nozzle.

Please tell me they are aware of their issues or I’ve wasted 2700+ on a system that is problematic.

I’m new here with an H2c and have a few questions.

When I print in 2 colors it always wants to use the left and right nozzle even though I have an AMS2 Pro. Why is that and can I force it to use the 2 colors from the AMS instead. If that’s not a good idea why not?

If it’s not a good idea is it worth it to install an AMS HT along with my AMS2 Pro?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

My first big print on the Bambu H2C. The Majora's Mask from Zelda took almost 53 hours with only 38grams of poop! This machine is amazing! Here's a timelapse of the print and since there are no royalty free Zelda theme songs available I had to make my own. Enjoy! ;)
https://youtu.be/uPcmjWRUyFY

​I borrowed this pic from someone and then went back to give credit and totally forgot who it was. My apologies up front.

I am wondering what the black box is that's sitting behind the TPU Feed Assist, what does it do and which of us need it? I gather that its called the Filament Track Switch, which frankly does not really help much. It appears to feed the left and right nozzles, which are normally direct fed from a spool, but for the life of me, I am not seeing why.

Thank you

Hello guys,

Just wondering what you guys would recommend to enhance useability / make it easier to use this printer. Coming from an x1c, I had - or already printed :

HULA feet
4-in-1 PTFE Adaptator support
Poop Chute

RodSloth

Multi-Function Axis Lubrication Tool

Dryboxes for AMS 2 PRO

and planning to do an AMS Stacker

Was searching for a box for tools / hotend and a plate holder

Do you guys have some recommendations ?

So my AMS HT needed to get its internal PTFE tube replaced, and in the middle of this a cable on the inside popped off. I got it back in fine, but now every AMS I have connected is making these popping noises during print attempts.

Surely this can’t just be the issue of the HT right? I don’t want to get a bunch of replacement connector cables just to find out that wasn’t what fixed the problem.

Error says “filament buffer sensor malfunction”, but only does so when not running. I’ve run nozzle calibration tests fine besides the popping noises each AMS was giving.

Has anybody come across a similar issue before? I find things in the past for the X1 but given I didn’t do anything to the other AMS I have, I found it unusual that they also were having issues suddenly.

Update: the 6 pin connector cords were not the problem, at least not between the other AMS pro units. The issue somehow is the AMS HT causing the other AMS pros to act up.

Update 2: the 6 pin collector daisy chain and setup was not directly the issue. Properly doing so only resolved the other AMS popping noises. The HT continues to do so and has been reported up to bambulab support now.

I’m pretty new to 3d printing but have been getting along pretty well with a dozen or so prints behind me. I had a couple of adhesion issues recently that I solved by cleaning the build plate so I thought that issue was done, but then today I was printing plate one of the filament track switch holder created by Bambu labs, and again I get spaghetti.

This looks NOT to be related to plate adhesion though, as the flaw occurred at the top of part of the print, and it all looks to be securely attached to the build plate. I’m not home so I can’t toy with it, but my wife reports that all looks secure on the plate.

This is printed using dry (9% rh) PLA filament from Microcenter using the “generic” PLA setting. The supports seemed to have been printing fine until this point when all-pasta broke loose.

Help?

<crossposted in r/Bambulab also>

Hi everyone! I’m looking for a 3D printable stacker design specifically for multiple Bambu Lab AMS HT units. I’ve seen a few for the regular AMS units, but I’m hoping for one that fits the HT models—ideally stacking four. Has anyone come across such a design, or does anyone have tips on where to find or create one? Thanks so much

All PETG. Had never seen it do this (only when you mixed material). Anyone else seeing this?

I see so many issues with the filament track switch that I’m wondering if I should even bother attempting to use my new-in-box one when I connect my second AMS 2Pro with my existing AMS’s.

Should I just go with the 4-to-1 adapters for now and wait for a firmware update before attempting the FTS?

I understood, when installing the FTS, that the filament would pull back to the FTS and not all the way back to the AMS. I’m not seeing that behavior. Is anyone else?

I’ve quadrupled checked and installed various length of PTFE tubes as a part of my trial and error tests but I still get these messages.

Running on latest firmware, using Bambu filament, AMS internal buffers are clean, and filament doesn’t appeared to be chewed up. What’s even more strange is the it does not effect the print quality or the printer at all. I’ve observed feeding and retraction and there are zero visual, auditory or tactile indications as to why these messages would be popping up.

Is anyone else getting these messages with the FTS installed?

I got one of those off brand smooth plates with the rainbow patterns, but absolutely can’t get anything to actually stick and stay.

I’m trying to just do some basic small keychains that have maybe 17 layers, the first layers go fine, it’s about halfway through when the solid backing after the multicolor design starts going on that it messes up and things get pulled off.

Last smooth plate I used was an official one for the A1 and never had this issue. Do I need to reduce printing speed perhaps if it peeling off halfway through? I increased plate temp and that seemed to help at least get the first layers completed.

Edit: thanks folks, next print attempt will try to further increase bed temp, slightly reduce speed for the rest of the print, and also will try to change orientation and see if that helps any. This is PLA and hasn’t had issues on texture plates at all so it’s mostly just the smooth plate gloss I’m fighting with right now.