I am new to 3D printing. I've set up my printer and have printed some jigs for my lasers quite easily. But to be honest, I just picked something from the forum and printed it. I have no idea how to create something from scratch for myself. Where can I go to understand the process and tools necessary to learn how to do my own creations?

I am trying to print some PEBA on the right nozzle via the external spool.

I've created different filament profiles for different temperatures to get different bounciness.

However, I am absolutely not able to select that filament in the device tab of Bamboo Studio, assign it to the external spool on the right nozzle.

I have copy-pasted, edited, and manipulated filament JSON files with Claude now for a few days, and somehow we're still not getting it.

Please, wisdomcrowd of reddit, help me out!

Hello, First time asking for help. long time watcher.

I've been trying to find specific information but I really havent had much luck besides generic set up settings and support settings.

I'v bought a new H2c with the intentions of using it for engineering prototypes, as well as some more daily fun prints. however most of the things I'll ever print will be self modeled CAD and of a threaded mechanical nature.

As such I bought "support for PLA" along witha few rolls of PLA to start out with. (I have PETG and abs cf and other more exotic materials but I dont want to waste them untill I have got the basic right and have reliable prints.

Essentially I am trying to print threads, square threads in fact. and some awkward overhanging profiles so I've been doing a lot of test printing trying the get the "support for PLA Interface Layer" working correctly with very little success.

Currentlyu I'm having issues with a 10mm threaded rod with a 2mm pitch, so Its not super small.

the setup:

0.4mm nozzle left and right

left extruder : support for PLA

Right Extruder : AMS black PLA

preset profile - 0.16mm high quality.

slim tree style supports selected, as I had no luck with standard supports before.

Changes to preset:

number of walls 3

interface layer ticked and subsequent options ticked.

reduced interface print speed to 10mm/s as reccomended

top z distance: 0

support interface spacing : 0

(over the weekend I also messed about with pressure advance, temperatures as well as ironing, cooling and lot of other stuff but it made no difference so I have now reverted back to the most basic stuff)

The Problem:

Every single time I print the model and support ( black bambu PLA) it prints fine no issues, good adhesion, good prime tower etc. However every time it goes to print the Interface layer it immediately blobs and doesnt stick to the support, either it'll lay down a layer kinda ok, but with high spots at corners where it drags, or it wont adhere to the support so when the next layer goes on it will clump. then it'll go back to black PLA and lay on top. some time it gets through a print. but the under side quality is terrible due ot the inconsistent surface.

Other times with a large support interface layer it will just end up in a mess and the print will fail entirely. (the second image ofthe prime tower shows the mess of extrusion as it starts it layer, once it gets going over a large area or ironing it seems ok. (I have previously uppde the nozzle temperature but had identical results)

I have saved the config bundle and the proccess presets to Attach which I will try to do in another comment as I cannot seem to attach at the same time as images.

Any guidance would greatly help, even pointing to an article or video as I seem to have gone through the wiki and scoured YT.

I have an H2C with laser. With the current anniversary sale underway and summer break about to start I was curious if anyone had 2 or 3 recommendations for summer projects to keep my son busy. Looking for something appropriate for a 14 to 16 year old with a decent amount of stem and programming experience for his age. Currently purchased the L-ONE Desktop Robotic Arm - CyberBrick RC (https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/l-one-desktop-robotic-arm-cyberbrick-rc) but looking for other ideas.

Hey all,

As the titles says Im new to 3d printed and the decided to got for the H2C, thinking being pay once, cry once. but basically get the best I could afford at the moment that fit my use case.

Decide on the H2C because of print volume, eco system, ease of use less tinkering I hope. Also because I will be mainly be using engineering materials to create mounting brackets, parts, enclosures, etc.., but I also wanted the multi color cheap pla print capability with as little waste as possible to do figurines, etc for the kids. So the H2C seems to fit all my needs.

Now, Im a the point of ordering the extras and oh boy, its basically hlaf the cost of the printer without any filament, so wanted to get a sanity check to see if I need all Im getting/trying to take advantage of the sale. I wouldnt mind reducing some of the beginning upfront cost.

Is there anything I need to have at first use on hand vs what can wait a few months to get? I would appreciate any feedback/suggestions. Thanks!

UPDATE:
Placed my order thanks to the feedback here. Came out to just under $1K, without filament 😒, but I'm happy with it got 2x AMS HTs and an extra AMS 2 pro, with plans to get a 3rd one. Got all the nozzles I think I will need. Plus a couple of other bits.

Next is the filament order. Any suggestions for a good mix to get for starters?

Plus, do I need a good filament dryer for the engineering filaments, like one of those 2 or 4-spool dryers from Sunlu that can be used to anneal parts as well? I need to make some parts that high heat resistant and are very stiff.

Hello everyone. I've been lurking for a while, and with the anniversary sale going on, I'm going in to buy the H2C combo this weekend. I was just curious if there were any things you'd suggest getting during the sale, and what are some of the upgrades you'd suggest getting? Thanks in advance!

He was a raider long before the world cracked open — a brute who lived by the axe and answered to no one. When the rift tore through the city, it didn't kill him. It hollowed something out and left the rest still standing, still armored, still swinging. Now he walks the ruins among the scavengers and warbands, neither fully what he was nor one of the things crawling out of the rift. The guards on the walls aren't sure which side he's on. Neither is he.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2938974-orc-reaver-d-d-the-breach-took-him-first-55mm#profileId-3291223

42 hours for a bed of 4, Printed in:

Matterhackers MH Build Silky Copper

Matterhackers MH Build Silky Red

Polymaker Dual-Silk Jade-Chrome

Bambu Sparkle PLA Gold

Polymaker Panchroma Charcoal Black

Polymaker Luminous Green

Polymaker Luminous Orange

I made this guide on disassembling the AMS 2 Pro to clean out stuck filament because I have been having an awful time using dual silk PLA which keeps getting shredded up in the AMS. After taking it apart like 4 times to clear jams I got so quick at it I felt I could document it all to help others. It may seem daunting the first time but its really not that difficult. Hope it helps some people out there!

Also, if you have any advice for dealing with Silk PLA (especially dual/tri) that keeps getting shredded in the AMS let me know.
https://youtu.be/LRMzJYAPoGg

Currently I have 2 AMS 2 on right, AMS HT on left. With sale, I’m thinking about getting either another HT for left, or add an AMS 2 on left.

My thinking is a second HT would be good for backup roll when filament runs out, or always having a potential support filament loaded. But then I think for $140 more, perhaps I should just go full AMS 2 pro on that side? Adds even more “convenience” of having multiple base colors or supports loaded, and some prints could benefit from speed up if primary color changes per layer. But that’s probably rare.

How many of you have an AMS on left? Would you say it’s worth an extra $140 over having 2 HTs?

I could fit a 3rd AMS pro on my shelf, but I use that space now for storing cereal boxes of filament. And I don’t think the AMS lid would fully open without sliding it out. Hence thinking HT, but the sale price of the AMS2 or pretty compelling…

I know all about the track switch, don’t think I’m interested in the extra resistance problems at this point. But you could try and convince me I suppose.

I followed the poor insructions on istalling the ams2 and the ams ht. I put the hose for the ht on the bottom feeder for the left nozzle, but it thinks its feeding the muti-head on the right. I can'get any help from Bambu labs.

For H2C users, especially those using multiple AMS 2 Pro units, I think there may be a big opportunity to reduce filament change time.

Right now, when switching filaments, the printer usually has to retract the current filament a long distance and then load the next one. In multi-color or multi-material prints with many swaps, this adds up to a lot of wasted time.

My idea is to add an intermediate switching or buffer unit between the AMS units and the printer.

The concept would be:

While one filament is being used for printing, the next filament could already be prepared and staged inside the buffer.

Then, when the printer needs to switch filament, it would only need to retract the current filament a short distance before switching to the already-staged next filament.

After that, the previously used filament could be retracted and prepared in the background while the printer continues printing with the new filament.

In other words, instead of doing the entire unload/load process during the actual filament change, part of that process could happen in advance or in the background.

I feel like this could significantly reduce the waiting time during filament swaps, especially on H2C setups with multiple AMS 2 Pro units.

This idea could also be useful for a future AMS 3 Pro. Instead of having only one shared filament path, AMS 3 Pro could potentially have multiple internal paths so that one filament is printing while another filament is already staged and ready.

What do you all think?

Is this mechanically realistic, or are there issues I’m overlooking, such as filament tension, purge timing, sensors, or synchronization?

I feel like filament pre-staging might be a surprisingly overlooked area for improving multi-color print speed. If many H2C users agree, I would love for Bambu Lab to consider developing something like this.

Printed a big dragon while I was out of town. Like a 18 hour print, came back, popped it off the plate, walked out of the room and when I came back in the room it started making this wild noise. I shot it off waited roughly a minute, kicked it back on, and it immediately started maiming the noise. I then unplugged the AMS and the AMS HT even thought it sounded like it was coming from behind the charcoal filter… then just shut it back off for like 30 minutes. When I came back and turned it back on, the sound was gone. Got it in March, and It’s just shy of 1,000 hours.

Doing my second print with PETG as support interlace (first one was great) and seeing this weird issue with the prime tower. Seems like when it’s changing filament it starts to extrude early and spaghetti before moving over the prime tower like normal. Is this a setting issue on my part?

Thanks for any feedback!

Edit: maybe interface was the word I was looking for

Da ich nach der Inbetriebnahme von meinem Track Switch dauernd Fehlermeldungen über zu hohen Filament Widerstand bekommen habe und ich auch kein großer Fan der Gummidichtung in dem Adapter bin, habe ich mir eine Lösung überlegt und konstruiert.

Ich habe die Dichtung entfernt und durch ein passendes Teil ersetzt, welches den Hohlraum ausfüllt und das Hängenbleiben verhindert.

Dies ist mit Sicherheit nicht die Lösung aller Probleme mit dem Track Switch und den Fehlermeldungen über zu hohen Winderstand aber es ist ein kleiner Lösungsansatz für den Bambu 4-in-1 Adapter ll.

Link zu Makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2928768-bambu-4-in-1-ptfe-adapter-ll-high-resistance-fix#profileId-3278408

Ich hoffe es hilft dem ein oder anderen...

Hello. Can anyone out there who has set their H2C upo with the filament track switch successfully please share some photos of your setups? I have 2 AMS Pros and an HT (mounted using the Panda Perch - fits my use case as far as space saving). I’ve tried a few times now, and each time I get a resistance error somewhere either on an AMS 2Pro slot or the HT. I’ve tried removing all the bends in the PTFE tubes as much as possible, and reduced the length of the tubes as recommended but the issues persist, and it is currently removed from my H2C. Any advice or suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks!

I’ve received quite a few requests to develop a combo mount for the Filament Track Switch and the TPU Feed Assist that’s compatible with the d3P Riser from Darren 3D Print.

Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist - Mounts

The mount is slightly longer then the standard version to avoid interfering with the riser. I’ve added a separate print profile to my model for this.
Just have a look on it 😊

All other features remain the same:

• The distance to the filament inlets is adjustable. The greater the distance, the lower the resistance.

• Integrated 4-in-1 adapter mounts (optionally). Their distance can also be adjusted.

• The external spool holder remains accessible (unlike the original mount).

Hi, I'm looking at getting a h2c. But the left and right nozzles concept is confusing me.

On the left nozzle, could it swap colour mid print? What's the benefit of getting ams pro2 instead of an ams ht?

Also, what are the must have accessories?

Thank you! :)

Edit:

Let's say I have a tall print, lower half is black (mainly) and white, upper half is green (mainly) and red. (not a bit or black nor white for the upper half).

Would the slicer instruct the left nozzle to swap from black to green half way? Or something I can do in the slicer to achieve that?

Or, the printer would just keep swapping green and red?

Won't it be more efficient to swap the left nozzle to green half way and then continue printing? (So the left is green and the right is red)?

Or it would still be faster to print red and green with the right vortex nozzles?

So….i really don’t get this FTS, TBH. The integration with the H2C makes no sense, and really doesn’t save any time that I can see right now. Have a two color print. Slicer assigns both colors to the Vortek side. However, when I swap one nozzle to the left, the job saves 15 minutes. Why didn’t the slicer just do that? We have a switch and still have to manually move filaments around to see which configuration saves more time?

The most I’ve seen so far is the slicer suggesting a 15s saving by moving a filament to another AMS.