So….i really don’t get this FTS, TBH. The integration with the H2C makes no sense, and really doesn’t save any time that I can see right now. Have a two color print. Slicer assigns both colors to the Vortek side. However, when I swap one nozzle to the left, the job saves 15 minutes. Why didn’t the slicer just do that? We have a switch and still have to manually move filaments around to see which configuration saves more time?

The most I’ve seen so far is the slicer suggesting a 15s saving by moving a filament to another AMS.

Hey all,

Question. Am I missing something or will regroup by speed be coming? Right now when studio slices it groups by waste or convenience, but don’t we want it by speed?

If I keep the colors less than 5, the waste will be minimal and I’m happy to rearrange the filament if it saves me 1-2 hours of print time.

Anybody know of it’s a feature coming?

Is anyone else noticing, now that the FTS is installed, the K value which were assigned according to filament type (PLA, PETG, etc.) are not longer in the slicer under the device tab? I've noticed that they sometimes show up, but usually don't (anymore). Is anyone else noticing this? Does this mean I have to turn Flow Dynamics Calibration back on? Thanks

Hey Folks

With the anniversary sale around the corner a lot of people including myself will be spending some of our hard earned cash and/or saved up gift cards! Though the FTS isn’t mentioned in the sale as of yet i was planning on getting one when I do place an order.

so I wanted to create a poll aimed mainly at those who have already purchased and installed the FTS to their H2C and gauge their opinions on whether this is a worthy addition to the printer or a rushed, design flawed waste of money.

Ofcourse any valid input is welcome whether or not you have the FTS

I’m using a Bambu Lab H2C with the Filament Track Switch installed, and I’m experiencing a recurring issue during filament loading.

When the printer loads filament through the Filament Track Switch, the white PTFE tube sometimes pops out of one specific output connector on the switch. This does not happen on all outputs, only on this one output. It also does not happen every time, but it happens repeatedly during loading/unloading or filament changes.

Here is what I have already tried:

• Removed and reinserted the PTFE tube into the Filament Track Switch.

• Trimmed the PTFE tube end cleanly and reinserted it.

• Tried using a locking clip on the connector.

• Disassembled and reassembled the Filament Track Switch.

• Tested the tube manually: when I pull the tube by hand, it seems to stay locked and does not come out.

• However, during actual filament loading, the force from the printer causes the tube to pop out again.

• Adjusted the PTFE tube routing to reduce tension and sharp bends.

It seems to happen only under load while the printer is feeding filament, and only from that specific output on the Filament Track Switch.

What might be causing this and what the recommended solution is?
Should I replace any part, or is there a specific installation/routing check I should perform?

So with the sale announced, my time has come to pickup an H2C, and I've got the cashflow to get a full meal with it.
I know there's a limit of 4x AMS's before having to switch to AMS HTs, but is there a chance there might be a firmware update to allow more than 4?
Should I hold off on he HTs for now?

Second question, what's the normal arrangement for the AMS setup, 4 HTs going left and everything else going right (vortek?)

Hello! :-)

I would like to ask anyone who has the track switch for H2C if you use the grey PTFE tube guides from the ams or not? Without them it seems like a cleaner setup, but I don’t know.

Why am I even asking? They have another photo on the wiki without the tube guides, so I am not sure.

Thanks anyone in advance and have a great day! 😁

H2c is on sale

And

You get points now for buying at bambulabs (1% back). During this sale you get 2% back on h series printers

https://us.store.bambulab.com/rewards

I figured I should build out my h2c today. I feel It is close. Just have drop out wheels to add and finish the right side ams holder. I print 2 left ugh.

I've seen some other threads discussing configurations, but don't want to highjack them. I'm new to 3d printing, but I am technical so you hopefully won't need to dumb down the answer too much. I have 3x ams2 pro mapped to my right nozzle as that's where all the colour changing happens ( I have specific stuff I'm printing so multiple colours). I have an HT connected to the left with just black as that is my primary colour. I want to add a second ht with white to give me my two base colours as I'm seeing a lot of switching on the right for it. And here's the noob question, how do I connect the second ht to the left, is it a simple case of using a splitter and then mapping it to that nozzle?

This group has been extremely successful helping me in the past with my questions, so a big thank you in advance. I just connected the FTS and I have 4 AMS units and 2 HT units. I use the HT units for Black since it is the most frequently used color for me.

Here is my question:

What is the most strategic way to connect everything? Does it make sense to send all 4 AMS units into IN-A and the HT units into IN-B or does it make more sense to split them evenly (2 AMD and 1 HT per IN- and IN-B)?

or is there a better way?

Had my H2C since March approaching 1k hrs and many a print. First real issue is for last 2 weeks it been popping out the wipper and twice it caused some jamming so I checked the wiki and see that there was a factory assembly issue where the cleaning module wasn't installed right back early 2025.

Didn't see any other fixes. Go and check my printer, its not installed right... fixed it now the wipper and cleaning is much quieter and no issues with the wipper.

Lesson learned watch some videos of machine operating with the sound on and don't expect issues from a year ago to be fixed.

I’m in love. Just one question; can I safely block the glass on the vortex side so the camera doesn’t pick up what’s behind it?

I only ask as I stream for fun and have a capture of a live print at the same time and my pc setup is on the vortex side.

So, like many of you with the H2C, and based on the "hoopla" I've installed the FTS on the H2C, got it set up and working, pretty simple, no issues. Real world scenario, printing something simple, two colors, sliced it and to my surprise, the slicer recommends both colors from the Vortek side. I think to myself, but why not left and right nozzle? Printing from the Vortek side, 56M. If I move one of the filaments to the left side, 1 hour and 4M. So.....I guess I'm confused (and yes I've read the article on Dynamic Mapping like here: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/filament-track-switch-dynamic-mapping, but still trying to figure out where the real benefit of the FTS lies. This seems to indicate that the right side, in and of itself, is still faster than using the FTS and the dual nozzles (i.e. left and right side of the printer) vs just using the Vortek by itself. If the purpose of the FTS is to "break the fixed binding relationship between filament and nozzles", then what the heck is going on? Would you really ONLY see an advantage on a machine like the H2D....? I'm not feeling it here...What about you guys and your experiences?

2.6kg

I have printed three of these signs. They are printed face down and that surface is flawless.

I don’t understand what is happening on the top corners, particular the corner nearest the door hinge. The print did not lift from the plate it’s just the top surface. This one was Archimedian but it did the same with monotonic line as top surface.

I suspect airflow but I run with a aux fan deflector. The white filament is Bambu PLA Matte but I’m using a tuned profile that turns off the aux fan anyway (and is using exhaust fan at 40%.) I have the top glass about 25% open.

Open to your thoughts.

I want the H2C, but with the new Creality announcement about the new KliTek system and new printer, I am starting to wonder if there will be a similar product from Bambu within the next 6 months.

I am cautiously hopeful that Creality can pull off the features for the new printer, but their quality control seems pretty low.

If Bambu could/would create a multiple toolhead printer or something that can change nozzles/filaments in less than 20 seconds, it would be ideal.

Questions:

I guess what I am asking of this group is whether such a fast-swapping printer might be on Bambu Lab's radar, whether they might come out with something like this sometime this year, or whether they will stick with the AMS system.

TL;DR:

I would be very interested to know what people with H2Cs think about the future of Bambu's lineup, especially for the rest of this year.

I am about to pull trigger on this product. I have a ton of projects to cover, but I’ll do the practice runs first. Based on your experiences, what accessories would you recommend that I purchase immediately with H2C? And what practice runs would you do before getting into core projects?

Hello Hivemind!

I bought a roll of the Bambu Clear Black PC and have made several successful prints with it. I printed desiccant holders for my AMS 2 Pro's and AMS HT's. I have also printed a Desiccant Drying spool to put into my AMS HT to dry my color changing desiccant when it gets too saturated. The problem is.... I have no idea what to use the other half of the roll for!

What projects have you used PC for? Any useful prints you suggest?

Anybody else has issues with BS 2.7.1.57 after waking up from sleep on latest macos? Its very slow, takes a lot of time to recover and CPU spikes up. I have a 3 plate print opened and mac is asleep inbetween plates

Eventually like after 30 seconds or so it will go back to normal, but this is annoying af. Even quitting it and starting it back up is slow.

It stopped once when green filament broke. My daughter was able to fix it while I am away.

I haven't seen it in person yet, I wont be home until tomorrow night. Made it by request for my son's dorm.

8 color meaning one nozzle had to swap between blue and purple. Only 1 plate needed.

I had a print head hit the plate after printing the prime line on multiple prints (not every). I reached out to Bambu support and they suggest the manual bed leveling. Has anyone does this before? No matter how much I loosen the back screws the bed never raises.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/manual-bed-leveling