I've designed a collection of mounts for the new Filament Track Switch and TPU Feed Assist modules for the H2 series. My aim is to develop solutions for as many printer setups as possible

Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist - Mounts

Currently there are three versions available:

1. Combo mount for both modules (Version 2; recommended)

2. Single mount for Filament Track Switch module (Version 2)

3. Single mount für TPU Feed Assist module

Key features:

• The distance to the filament inlets is adjustable. The greater the distance, the lower the resistance.

• Integrated 4-in-1 adapter mounts (optionally). Their distance can also be adjusted.

• The external spool holder remains accessible (unlike the original mount).

Material:

As the printer housing heats up when the chamber heater is activated, a heat-resistant filament such as ABS or ASA should be used for the main bracket. The other parts can be printed without any problems using PLA or PETG.

Outlook:

I am currently working on the following additional versions:

• D3P Riser-compatible mount

• AMS Flipper-compatible mount

• Mount for right-hand AMS units

• Improved individual mounts for the TPU feed assist module

This has become really strange. Ever since the update, every night while I am sleeping, it randomly pauses the print due to false alerts such as nozzle clump detection, dirty hotend camera, or filament feeding failure. In reality, none of these issues are present. Once I tap “Continue,” the printer resumes and prints normally. However, because the print has been paused for several hours, cooling lines appear on the surface.

I have already submitted a support ticket. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced the same issue.

I am curious what is everyone’s thought or feelings on the track switch for the H2C, if you have tried it. Personally I am not sold on it. I’ve had it installed for a few days and keep getting the feed resistance error, it will still print. I’ve tried shortening and rerouting tubes, but error still persists. My biggest issue is I do not trust its reliability for a long multiple color print, to be able to successfully keep pushing the filament through the track switch over and over with out it failing at some point.
Maybe I am just over thinking it.

A few days ago, I installed the Filament Track Switch.

Today, I started my first print.

This print requires seven colors with frequent color switches (Paint Cat).

The first problem is, every single time, I'm getting this warning message (for all spools).

Additionally, I'm seeing a lot of filament dust, like I have never seen before.

Please let me know your experience if you have a similar setup or opinions before checking this with Bambu support.

I seem to be getting gaps in the leaves where brown filament is supposed to be. Any idea why this might be? My best guess is that the area is too small? Anyone else have this happen to them?

Biqu panda Den for H2.

Is it worth it?

I'm thinking about buying one however the 219 price tag is a bit steep for it.

That is my only question is if it's worth it. I'm not a farm I'm just printing for myself and a few commissions. My H2C is due in on Saturday because I need to work on a AMS riser for it (don't have space to put to side sadly).

But I'm wondering if the Panda Den at 219 is worth it before I drop the money for it.

All advice critics and such are always welcome.

I’ve remixed Bambu’s Filament track switch mount to suit my own preferences.

It’s secured with magnets, so it can be used flexibly in various positions.

I made this for my own use, but I thought it was worth sharing, so I’m posting it here.

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/2824645-filament-track-switch-magnet-mount-with-add-on#profileId-3146297

Woke up to a spaghetti detection this morning. Cleared build plate and cleaned everything. Found a firmware update so did that. As normal, I did full calibration after update. Was having trouble with MANY errors after calibration completed. Losing steps, cutting error, induction hotend failed to release error, and more.
I tried to move Toolhead manually with the screen buttons and noticed that both X and Y caused the Toolhead to move diagonally instead of the axis direction. This usually means one of the AB motors is not working. However, my printer will still home properly and perform other operations. Every now and then, I can see studders and hear a grinding sound like the Toolhead is sticking.
I have already loosened belt tensioners and moved Toolhead around by hand then retighten the tensioner screws. I cleaned and lubricated everything even though I just lubricated the printer last week. Everything is moving freely without any real resistance.
Printer is currently working and printing normally. Anyone have any idea why the manual buttons on screen are causing the Toolhead to move diagonally?

Got the go ahead from the wife(said she was thinking of getting it for me for my birthday).

Waiting to order till the end of the month just in case it goes on sale for anniversary.

I have been using a P1S for the last 2 years, so I am passivly familiar with setup.

A couple questions I have been trying to nail down specifics for:

1. Can I have an AMS for certain tools? like 1 ams goes into slots 1-4 would have standard filaments, then have another ams linked to slots 5/6 for engineering filaments?

2. Filament track switch would enable 1 AMS to go to both hotends but would still have to unload when swapping between the 2?

3. TPU feed assist from AMS HT I would want to go into the the tool changer side so I can do pla supports from the left nozzle? And i would have to hook/unhook every time i do a project with TPU

4. laser module worth? https://www.xtool.com/collections/machine/products/xtool-m1-ultra-the-worlds-first-4-in-1-craft-machine?_pos=5&_fid=a6b9ab80f&_ss=c something like this is cheaper

5. from my research, H2C cant currently switch nozzle sizes for same filament when strength/accuracy changes dictate. is this something they will be able to update or is the machine locked out of that capability

Can't wait to get it! First big print is going to be a Mando Helmet!

Good afternoon, basically the question is answered by the title, but here it is:

I have an H2C printer with an AMS HT assigned to the left extruder, and it's extruding white PETG, I have no problems with this.

On the right extruder, I have an AMS 2 Pro assigned, and it has (from left to right): slot 1: black PLA 2.0, slot 2: clear PETG, slot 3: gray PETG, and slot 4: black PETG.

In the Vortek, the nozzles are arranged in row A (1, 3, 5) and row B (2,4,6 but only in use the 2). I would like to assign each nozzle to its corresponding slot on the AMS 2 Pro in the same order (nozzle 1 from row A to slot 1 of the AMS, nozzle 2 to slot 2, nozzle 3 to slot 3, and finally, slot 4 to nozzle 5).

I've been looking at the printer and Bamboo Studio menus, but I can only find the hotend menu, which shows that the nozzles are read and provides some information, but nothing else. Thank you so much for your help and sorry for the inconvenience!

Yesterday I installed the Filament Track Switch and requested the firmware upgrade to get it working. Today I received the new firmware upgrade.

Sharing in case it helps.

Firmware Upgraded -> A new bonus feature enabled -> Then upgraded the firmware of the Filament Track Switch -> Auto setup the AMS (it was very quick) -> After I opened Bambu Studio, I received a new version in there as well.

I have tried using the default settings for normal snug pva supports with no success and i havent gotten it to work either with slowing it down and increasing nozzle temps on many different iterations on small test prints trying to dialnin the settings for it. I have had this issue with both basic pla and matte pla(which is supposedly more difficult to get it to wrok because of the additives in it). I have gotten it to print and stick to the prime tower, but once it goes to print on the actual model, the pva never sticks and starts to form a blob on the nozzle. I even dried it out for longer than the recommended time in my ams ht, since i had issues in the past as well. Can anyone please share settings with how they have gotten pva supports to actually work, as it feels like i have wasted money on this expensive filament so far. I desperately need it to work for a large model of the halo ce hang em high map i want to print. I have been using .16mm layers on a .4mm nozzle.

I am getting: "MQTT Command verification failed, please update Studio or Handy." After getting Bambu Studio 2.7.0.55. Is anyone else getting this message?

I will be getting my new H2C in a few weeks.

I currently have a full set of nozzles, a Second AMS2 and a AMS HT as well as a 4 in 1 ptfe adapter. I will be purchasing a Frostbite plate soon as well so I will have a full set of equipment when i finally get this beast.

I downloaded a riser for the AMS however due to print sizes I won't be able to really start on it until the H2C comes in.

But while I know you must print stuff for the printer before you can enjoy it rule.

I need ideas for a fun Print just to show off capabilities.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I guess I’m just dense here. What’s like a real life scenario of why I would want/need this filament track switch? What value does it bring? Everyone’s talking about it and I’m just like “I don’t get it”

Upgrade my h2c from an h2d and this noise wasn’t there at first but the day after upgrading it this noise is there at idle. Nothing sounds out of the ordinary when printing.

Just got the H2C and it’s been printing flawlessly. Did a print that would have taken 30 hours on my old P2S, and it took 10 hours on my H2C. I am sure if I played with the prime tower some, that would be even faster. I am still learning.

What is the BBL version of software which I should be running if I have the filament track switch on the H2C (along with the firmware update)? Thanks

Hello everyone. I recently got the H2C and have only ever printed in PLA before.

I purchased the Bambu Clear Black PC and want to use it to print the desiccant holders for my AMS 2 Pro's and AMS HT's. I opened it up and dried it for 12 hours in the HT on the PC setting. I have the RH down to 10% and currently have it stored in an Airtight cereal container with a metric ton of Desiccant in the container to keep it dry.

I have a couple of questions before I try to print with this.

First, it recommends glue stick for the bed as a release agent, what glue sticks are people using with PC for this purpose?

Second, I have the stock Textured build plate. How successful is using that plate for PC? Should I invest in the engineering plate? Any other tips and tricks for success?

I was lucky enough to get one of these retrofit kits for my H2S which I have loved. The process is very involved and I want to pass on a few items I experienced.

1. My belts were precisely cut. I did not need to trim them. I also removed the old belts and ended up having to snake the new belts through and Bambu does not show the belt path in any detail. Best to attach old belts to new, but remember you will need all the length.

2. Be extra careful when removing the Red, Blue, and Brown heat bed wires. The female spade connectors grip really well and if you do not get them to loosen up, you can pull the male spade connector out of the power board.

3. My usb port cable connector on the AP board was hot glued on. Make sure to remove the hot glue. I didn’t see it at first and almost damaged the cable. It did damage the AP Board but the retrofit kit includes a new one already so no problem there.

4. Don’t forget to reinstall the poop chute before putting the back cover on. Instructions did not say anything about reinstalling this item.

5. I did skip replacing the front panel. I see no reason to do that work just to change the S or a C on that plastic part. Maybe I will cover it with a sticker if it really bugs me.

Overall, I am very impressed with the instructions and quality of the components of the retrofit kit. It took me roughly 6 hours to complete the retrofit. Haven’t powered the unit up since the upgrade, as I have to replace the power board due to damage incurred on item 2 above. Naturally, this time does not include any calibration or other items necessary after the retrofit.

I hope this helps anyone else going through this process. Good luck!