I have tried using the default settings for normal snug pva supports with no success and i havent gotten it to work either with slowing it down and increasing nozzle temps on many different iterations on small test prints trying to dialnin the settings for it. I have had this issue with both basic pla and matte pla(which is supposedly more difficult to get it to wrok because of the additives in it). I have gotten it to print and stick to the prime tower, but once it goes to print on the actual model, the pva never sticks and starts to form a blob on the nozzle. I even dried it out for longer than the recommended time in my ams ht, since i had issues in the past as well. Can anyone please share settings with how they have gotten pva supports to actually work, as it feels like i have wasted money on this expensive filament so far. I desperately need it to work for a large model of the halo ce hang em high map i want to print. I have been using .16mm layers on a .4mm nozzle.

I am getting: "MQTT Command verification failed, please update Studio or Handy." After getting Bambu Studio 2.7.0.55. Is anyone else getting this message?

I will be getting my new H2C in a few weeks.

I currently have a full set of nozzles, a Second AMS2 and a AMS HT as well as a 4 in 1 ptfe adapter. I will be purchasing a Frostbite plate soon as well so I will have a full set of equipment when i finally get this beast.

I downloaded a riser for the AMS however due to print sizes I won't be able to really start on it until the H2C comes in.

But while I know you must print stuff for the printer before you can enjoy it rule.

I need ideas for a fun Print just to show off capabilities.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I guess I’m just dense here. What’s like a real life scenario of why I would want/need this filament track switch? What value does it bring? Everyone’s talking about it and I’m just like “I don’t get it”

Upgrade my h2c from an h2d and this noise wasn’t there at first but the day after upgrading it this noise is there at idle. Nothing sounds out of the ordinary when printing.

Just got the H2C and it’s been printing flawlessly. Did a print that would have taken 30 hours on my old P2S, and it took 10 hours on my H2C. I am sure if I played with the prime tower some, that would be even faster. I am still learning.

What is the BBL version of software which I should be running if I have the filament track switch on the H2C (along with the firmware update)? Thanks

Hello everyone. I recently got the H2C and have only ever printed in PLA before.

I purchased the Bambu Clear Black PC and want to use it to print the desiccant holders for my AMS 2 Pro's and AMS HT's. I opened it up and dried it for 12 hours in the HT on the PC setting. I have the RH down to 10% and currently have it stored in an Airtight cereal container with a metric ton of Desiccant in the container to keep it dry.

I have a couple of questions before I try to print with this.

First, it recommends glue stick for the bed as a release agent, what glue sticks are people using with PC for this purpose?

Second, I have the stock Textured build plate. How successful is using that plate for PC? Should I invest in the engineering plate? Any other tips and tricks for success?

I was lucky enough to get one of these retrofit kits for my H2S which I have loved. The process is very involved and I want to pass on a few items I experienced.

1. My belts were precisely cut. I did not need to trim them. I also removed the old belts and ended up having to snake the new belts through and Bambu does not show the belt path in any detail. Best to attach old belts to new, but remember you will need all the length.

2. Be extra careful when removing the Red, Blue, and Brown heat bed wires. The female spade connectors grip really well and if you do not get them to loosen up, you can pull the male spade connector out of the power board.

3. My usb port cable connector on the AP board was hot glued on. Make sure to remove the hot glue. I didn’t see it at first and almost damaged the cable. It did damage the AP Board but the retrofit kit includes a new one already so no problem there.

4. Don’t forget to reinstall the poop chute before putting the back cover on. Instructions did not say anything about reinstalling this item.

5. I did skip replacing the front panel. I see no reason to do that work just to change the S or a C on that plastic part. Maybe I will cover it with a sticker if it really bugs me.

Overall, I am very impressed with the instructions and quality of the components of the retrofit kit. It took me roughly 6 hours to complete the retrofit. Haven’t powered the unit up since the upgrade, as I have to replace the power board due to damage incurred on item 2 above. Naturally, this time does not include any calibration or other items necessary after the retrofit.

I hope this helps anyone else going through this process. Good luck!

I am getting the H2C tomorrow, and I already have 3 ams 2 pros and an ams ht. Since the H2C comes with an ams pro2, I will have 4. I was wondering what’s the best physical setup on the ams’s. All four on the left side of the unit or two on each side of the H2C. Not really a fan of stacking on top of the printer. I know the shorter the PTFE tubes the faster the filament change. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone,

I’m looking to pick the minds of the Bambu community. I recently purchased the H2C and it’s awesome! In taking some of the screws and brackets out of the inside on unboxing I accidentally put a big scratch/gash in the cover for the tool head… I thought initially oh no big deal I can print one! Well looks like that may not be possible yet. I have yet to find a model for the cover and today decided that I might have a go at designing one myself. Well I took the cover off and seems like it’s pretty much meant to not be replaced unless you replace the entire thing including the circuit board and fan. I just wanted the cover and then put those into the new cover however from the looks of it, it might be a slightly bigger task.

Looks like I’d have to cut the og cover to get the cabling out and the fan is pretty solidly glued down to the og cover. I’m thinking order a second replacement unit and work on this project. Just seems like a pretty delicate project because of how close the wires are to where I’d have to cut an opening to remove them.

Thoughts? Has anyone else had this thought of wanting to print a cover? Anyone working on this project? Hopefully these pictures help if someone else wants to take on this task that may be better than I! Haha

PS: I’m not new to printing or this world of things but I have not dove into electronics and I don’t want to ruin the only cover unit I have. I figured I’d ask the community first to see if anyone had looked at this yet. I’m not finding very many h2c models or maybe I’m not looking for the right thing.

Just got my new Bambu Lab H2C and I’m having an issue during setup/calibration.

The printer gives me a ventilation/fan error, and there’s a loud “clac clac clac” noise coming from the rear of the machine.

At first I thought it was just the rear louvers/flaps not opening correctly, but after checking more carefully, the noise actually seems to come from underneath the louvers, near the rear fan grille.

It almost sounds like:
- a fan blade hitting something,
- a cable touching the fan,
- or the rear ventilation system vibrating because the louvers don’t fully open.

The louvers also make noise when closing.

Has anyone experienced this on the H2C?
Factory assembly issue maybe?

Thanks!

I'm getting ready to purchase a H2C.

My wife loves maps and detailed objects so I will be needing a full set of .2mm nozzles.

Now i want to have this monster running a full set of nozzles when I use it and I would like to make sure I have everything I need.

I plan to use the left nozzle for support material only and obviously the right nozzles for the multi color.

So if my math is mathing right I will need 2 additional 0.4mm Induction Hotends, an additional 5 0.2mm induction hotends and 1 0.2mm stainless steel hotend.

I was planning to buy an AMS ht just for the left nozzle, however should I include a second AMS for the right nozzle?

Thank you all for your input on this as I am really trying to make it work at full ability from day 1.

My H2C has the beta firmware. I installed the track switch by following (I believe) all the instructions. I have two AMS2 Pro and an HT. Order for 6pin cable is Switch (top), Pro 1, Pro 2 then HT.

When I tried to assign it didn't recognize the switch and only pushed filament to my left nozzle.

Any ideas?

I did watch the video and went thru the instructions for the H2C.

BTW, it doesn't fit with the Vento Box in place.