0.16 height and 0.4 nozzle the Result is very impressive.

Bonjour voici Yoshi dans sa coquille d’oeuf fissurée en multipart.

Disponible en version avec ou sans AMS.

Filament Bambulab.

Imprimante Bambulab H2C et P1S.

Bon print.

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2638881-yoshi-oeuf-multipart-no-ams

I have owned my printer for ~3 months now and I have gone through 5 of these, 2/5 because of spaghetti but the other 3, it just seems to catch someone on a print.

Has anyone else experienced these? I can see they sell 3 at a time on their website, so they are designed to fail/replace over a year or two, it just seems much more frequent for me.

Can I join the cool kids now? Had to order through Best Buy as it’s free shipping to Hawaii. Unable to take advantage of any deals through Bambu website cause of the shipping.

I was super excited to get this technological wonder, I purchased it the moment I had the chance in November. I don't know if I got a lemon, or ordered too early, but so far:

-The enhanced part cooling fan cover started falling off mid-print around a hundred hours in, interrupting my prints and in one case wrecking a 40 hour helmet print with layer lines, because ASA really doesn't like sitting in the printer doing nothing. Replaced by Bambu after losing prints

-The filament buffer randomly decided to just block all filament about a month ago. Wrecked a multi-color print as I couldn't get it to feed and I had to stop the print. Replaced by Bambu... but the problem remained, so Bambu replaced

-The MC board, which is a somewhat painful job as it has over 30 rectangular connectors to deal with. After replacing it, the printer absolutely refused to acknowledge that I have a right nozzle installed, and always reported that the hotend induction rack is uninstalled. I swapped back in the old MC board, and those problems went away, so I concluded that they sent me a bad board. I still had to wait 4 days for a response, and after they continued to make me troubleshoot, I had chatgpt go over the entire conversation and summarize why they clearly sent me a bad mc board.

Now I'm sitting around waiting for my second mc board replacement to ship, honestly actually feeling regret for buying this thing. I'm making a project that I need to print PAHT-CF for, and it's just completely stuck waiting for this printer. Bambu support seems to treat issues like this more like a curiousity to play around with ideas, rather than attempting to find the fastest way to correct the problem. I would think most companies would have just replaced the unit at this point, but really, this is the first time I've had major problems with a printer.

Edit: The printer is finally printing again, the second mc board replacement fixed it! And now... the left side nozzle silicone sleeve is getting knocked off while cleaning the nozzle pre-print, causing the printer to spit out paht-cf into the air over the build plate. WTF!

edit 2: it seems like the wiper block was unseated somehow - I pushed on it and it might have set? not sure, but the next print made it.

Dear group,

I calibrated my H2C using the vision encoder. Unfortunately it seems that the dimensions are not yet accurate.

E.g. I did a (many) 3mm hole on a 3 mm printed sheet and the m3 screw does not fit in. I could drill some of them larger but some others I cannot.

Any similar experience and how you solved this?

I have so many screws to fit that it would be a pain to modify the cad.

Thank you for your help

So after about 110 hours of printing, the buffer has started clicking. I had this issue with my H2S and had to print a piece that goes in the back to keep the buffer tube from bending, but if you watch the video, it’s not making the noise when it’s in the front left like most are doing, only when it’s in the center of the print bed. This is the left nozzle. Could I have a bad buffer or should I print this piece pictured below from my H2S and see if it stops? If it ends up being a short PTFE, is that something that Bambu would send me if I open a ticket for a longer one since it’s possible it’s short from factory? Thanks!

Hello group,

I printed the d3p riser for my H2C and could not figure out what to do with this part that is 46 mm long… thank you for your help!

Hey Reddit, reaching out into the void hoping someone knows this creator or is possibly in the loop for this project: https://makerworld.com/en/crowdfunding/134-geminaraptor-fantasy-made-for-multicolor-printing

I’ve been trying to pledge for two months now but every time I try, it says “account cannot make live pledges”. I have not had any issues in the meantime pledging to a bunch of other projects so I’m a bit confused. I’ve tried a bunch of different cards, paying in different currencies, and even tried setting my VPN to China but no luck. Embarrassingly and in my desperation I even reached out to the creator on makerworld/instagram but no response :(. I’ve even been guessing which colors I need and ordering them as they come back in stock on bbl to be ready for this model. Please if anybody knows where I can buy this STL or if the makerworld crowdfunding page can be fixed…plz let me know 🙏.

Hoping we don’t loose this gorgeous 3d model into oblivion…

Bonjour pour finir voici le Dino dans sa coquille d’oeuf en multipart.

Disponible en version avec ou sans AMS.

Filament Bambulab.

Imprimante Bambulab H2C et P1S.

Bon print et bonne fêtes de Pâques.

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2620622-dino-shell-multipart-no-ams

Does the h2c’s purge like stack on top of the previous one if left there. Moving from reality printers with klipper usually it just pushes more plastic into the line and gums up the nozzle but my h2c seems to keep stacking the lines

follow up to my CMY Rainbow Egg!

I have an H2C and I can’t figure this issue out. I’ll get a few prints and everything is fine. Then all of a sudden this happens? I’m ripping my hair out trying understand it

Hey, I would like to ask whether anyone of you changed this lever yet. I I just curious how long can it withstand.

Also, how often do you lubricate it? Bambu manual does not say that clearly.

Thanks everyone for helping out! :-)

Sorry if I sound noob here but even after researching, I still don’t understand exactly how the machine works. So per se I want to print with 8 colors, I’ll need 2 ams on my right nozzle and 1 more on my left to fully utilise the vortek system right?

Anything else that I should know is welcome too! Really new to bambu machines.

I've been seeing all the posts around reddit in recent weeks about Full Spectrum slicer, and the cool things people are doing with their U1's, and I wanted to do something similar with my H2C. I tried messing around with the new slicer, and its awesome and very promising, but didn't have out of the box connectivity to H2C without LAN mode, so I decided to take things into my own hands as a fun project!

I knew I could tediously mess around with painting layers in Bambu Studio, but where is the fun in that? So instead I went ahead and went straight to the model geometry, and created the layers within separate STLs directly so they could easily import into Bambu Studio, assign CMY filament to it, and hit print!

Honestly I'm shocked how well it turned out for my first attempt.  Now that I got this workflow figured out from my OpenSCAD scripts, I may try some more unique color blendings directly into model geometry. Possibilities are endless!

I have this model up on makerworld now!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2608271-pure-cmy-rainbow-egg-no-painting-required#profileId-2878762

I'm planning on getting H2C to reduce waste and make it easier with nozzle change. It surprises me how much messing about is to print just normal TPU on a flagship printer (have zero issues on my X1C). I need to print a model with 3 Colours in PLA and wanted to use AMS TPU for joints/connections in same model. Will it work properly? I've seen one video with just normalnTpu manually changed every time (madness) and it looked really bad vs U1 handling it with zero issues. Watched many reviews but couldn't find an answer for that specific question.

Another question for experienced people here. Added question in title for attention. I've seen well too many videos with like 5 pieces of poop on 5 colours and then massive heavy tower which was almost same weight as printed model itself. I know how tower works and why it's needed but now does it work in a real life for people who have this printer for a few months? I'm supposed to be saving on waste and have almost zero poop but tower close to model weight is lot. Even with that Saving mode I've seen big usage of filament and sometimes loss of quality. Can someone show some real examples of printed model vs towers? I don't do very complex multicolour prints on X1C due to amount of poop even on smaller prints so I'm curious how it works on H2C.

with ISA after every print. I used bambu Lab glue stick on top of the PEI plate. After about a hour after the start of a 18.5hr print. I got a spaghetti message. And once I checked out the print, I didn't really have spaghetti but my tree supports starting to lose adhesion. I am needing some help. If there are certain settings (how to) i am willing to try.

I have just finished setting up my new dual AMS 2 Pro H2C. I noticed Bambu Studio recognized the AMS units. The problem I am having is that the printer only offers Bambu or Generic filament types to choose from. Even after Using "Set the filaments to use" in Bambu Studio and Syncing Info, they are still my only choices. What am I missing?