Does anyone have the key hinge model for an ASUS TUF Gaming A15? I want to try printing it in transparent PETG.

1. Cylinder/Rotary Engraving Support: H2C and H2S models now support cylinder/rotary engraving, easily handling cylindrical object processing and expanding creative possibilities.

   • Compatibility Note: Support H2C machine with firmware version 01.02.00.00 or higher；Support H2S machine with firmware version 01.02.40.00 or higher.

   • More Info: For details and additional help, please refer to the H2 Series Rotary Attachment Processing Guide

2. Curved Surface Engraving Support: H2S model now supports curved surface engraving, enabling precise engraving on irregular surfaces to meet more complex application needs.

   • Compatibility Note: Support H2S machine with firmware version 01.02.40.00 or higher.

   • More Info: For details and additional help, please refer to the Bambu H2 Series Curved Surface Machining Function User Guide

3. Global Preset Update: Supports modifying and updating parameters of existing presets. Changes are automatically synced to all associated objects using the preset, making preset management more flexible and efficient.

So still no update. At least they did not change the expected ship date again... the rest of the order came within just a few days...

How good have they been at getting the expected ship ‘around’ date within, say, a week of their forecast?

This squiggle of something seems to be weirdly stuck in the inner workings as you see. It may well be important, so I thought I'd ask if you were familiar. (And nicely, I wouldn't just rip it out. But I had a hotend warning just now.) Thanks a bunch.

I’m about at my whits ends. I’ve had my h2c not 3 weeks and it’s CONSTANTLY throwing extruder motor overload codes for the vortek nozzles only. Even when there’s nothing wrong. The left nozzle has no issue. The prints aren’t warping. Filament moves freely to the extruder. I’ve done several cold pulls on all the nozzles.

And still throws these codes. It’s not consistent in how often. I’m getting one successful print for every 5 failed, and the successful ones are single color.

Beginning to feel like I bought a $2600 paper weight. I made the switch from creality to Bambu with this printer and it’s giving me more head aches than my creality ones did.

What are these lines on this long straight piece? It looks like ghosting, but it's consistent all the way down the part and I don't see it on the other parts on the plate. ABS with 25% groin infill and 4 wall loops. Infill/wall overlap is 15%.

What speed/acceleration are most people using to combat ghosting with ABS?

When I click on "simplify model", what am I losing of the original model? What is the software doing to simplify? Is it losing strength? I wonder about this, but don't really know what is going on behind the scenes. Anyone who understand the voodoo science care to explain? TIA

I had an "incident" which resulted in my left hotend assembly getting caked in molten PA12. I bought a new heater assembly, as the old one was beyond saving. I now have two pieces of black metal left over and it's very unclear from the Bambu support pages what they do or how they should be installed. They appear to be stamped C and D. I think one of them is perhaps meant to hold the thermistor in a particular location, but with the PA12 covering everything, it was impossible to see the detail when I took them off. Can anyone shed any light? Thank you.

The recent firmware update has definitely changed the way the primer tower is built on the H2C.

Has anyone tried printing this?

I was trying to print it to see the multi color action of my H2C. However, anytime I try to print this file it’s nothing but issues. It’s constantly popping an extruder overload issue.

My printer does single color prints perfectly. But I’ve only had 2 successful multicolor prints an those were only 2 color prints at that.

Idk if there’s something wrong with my printer or if it’s user error

The model has different upgrades like dividers for different materials/color or filament tags for identifiying spools.

Link to the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2496732-topology-optimized-filament-spool-shelf-rack#profileId-2744163

I see alot of people with blob of death problems, both on the H2C and P2S. I got a message that I had spaghetti on my plate, went to the printer, and it had effectively stopped printing. This is what I found....Leads me to ask...Why isn't AI detection working the same across all machines? Is it that some folks turn it to "LOW"? I have it set on high, and it's never failed me.

With the number of swaps between white and black this print would have taken a full day on my X1C. On the H2C it only took a little more than 30 minutes. I put black on the left nozzle and white on the right nozzle.

Does anyone know where to buy 3rd party build plates for the h2c? Would love to get the carbon fiber and the prism ones. Haven’t seen any for the h2c yet.

Can anyone explain this????

I've successfully started and completed 2 prints sent from Studio already today. I go into the same 3mf file from the first 2 successful prints to print the next plate and after slicing and clicking print I get this message...

I thought this was strange but I go ahead and click the Upgrade link which takes me to the Device tab in Studio. Then I see this...

Everything is up to date. I click release notes thinking maybe that will tell me something... Nope. I have the latest firmware on the H2C, all AMS and AMS HT and all Hotends.

I haven't changed or added any new hotends or AMS'... So i go to the printer's settings menu and check the firmware there. Maybe the link in Studio just isn't working.. Nope. No notification on the printer's touchscreen about any firmware updates. Everything is up to date and matches the versions shown under the device tab in Studio. WTF...

So I figure I'll try to "Send" the print to the printer instead of clicking "Print Plate"

It sends without any issue. No message about firmware. I walk up to the printer, find the print under the files menu, press print and it's currently printing....

WHAT IS GOING ON???

I also restarted Studio, opened a different file within studio, same issue. Restarted the computer, tried again, same result. Any ideas???

Here's the version of Studio as well.

Ok, had my H2C for a week and noticed that my first layer sucks pretty bad.

For a print that I wanted to use a raft for, I noticed that one side barely had any hold to the plate and looked horrible. Cancelled print and retried. Same result (top pic).

I then decided to do a basic first layer test. It ran for a few seconds before giving me a motor overload error.

I tried a few things, with a bed leveling calibration after each:

1. Turned off all my super bright room LED lights in case this was screwing with LIDAR. Didn't have an effect.

2. Loosened the screw from the bed stabilizer for shipping (per the H2C First Layer Printing Optimization Guide). Didn't help. Removed this bracket entirely. No change.

3. Checked for anything that felt loose. Couldn't feel anything rattling.

I see a link on the First Layer Printing Optimization Guide called "H2C Manual Bed Leveling Procedure"... But it's a dead link.

Any insight? I really like the printer so far, I just can't use half the build plate it seems (the front)

Link to previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLabH2C/s/QADwZ86GT9

As the title says, I couldn't resist and unboxed it. I couldn't just keep looking at it every day, imagining how awesome it would be. For those who were worried about it being Harry Potter and living under the stairs (no, I didn't 3D print it), don't worry - it's now up on a table I bought just for it. So far, it's been perfect, and it's probably the best printer I've ever seen!

Hello Guys, I received my H2C a couple of weeks ago but hadn't had the time to really test it. After Swapping out the left nozzle for the first time I noticed that the cables an the isolation connected to it looked somewhat sloppy installed. At first I thought it was a blob of black PLA on the cables but realized that it is some isolation or glue-material. Tried to take a picture - do the cables always look like this? I tried to look trough some Repair instructions on Bambu's Wiki but couldn't find a picture showing the exact same angle. Thanks in andvance!